Where to buy sharpening supplies?

WadeF

WadeF

Joined
Apr 12, 2000
Messages
2,116
Alright, I have been reading about everyone using different strops, stones, compounds, etc. Where are some good places to purchase this stuff? :)
 
Peavymart, canadian tire, walmart, zellers, home depot, lee valley tools, hand america...

I have a nice mix and match, other than my spydie ceramics I spent about 50cdn on equipment... but I have a 204 and doublestuff also...

200/300 combo alumina oxide whet, 500/800 combo alumina oxide whet, spydie ceramics(4 choices), 80-1500 normal wood paper, 3x18" strop with veritas green compound(0.5 micron)... and if I get mad enough I have a 6" disk benchtop grinder and a dremel.
 
www.toolsforworkingwood.com is a good source for medium-to-ultra-fine lapping film. The stuff works great on mousepads as a strop material; with pieces of wood as a sanding block/benchstone; and cut into 6"x1" polishing tapes for the EdgePro tape blank.

www.edgeproinc.com is a great source for your EdgePro Apex and EdgePro Professional needs.

www.newgraham.com is a great source for Spyderco Sharpmakers and related accessories (except for the time-saving rust eraser).

www.handamerican.com has tons of SiC sandpaper and strops, rouges, and, well, pretty much everything you'd need for sharpening or ideas to improve your existing setup.

I've heard great things about Lee Valley, too.
 
I was just about to post a question when I saw this thread. I've been using a Smith's tri-hone for years, and it has just about bit the dust. It's been dropped and the stones are broken. I was always able to get my knives shaving sharp(arm hair, with blade against the skin). Been practicing since I was about 8 years old(now 40), but I have seen, since lurking around here, that there is a whole new level to go to.
What I need is some advice on some new equipment. What would be a good, basic set-up? I have never used a Lansky/Gatco type set-up, or any type of guide. Are these types the way to go, or can I get those "hair-popping" edges freehand? All advice is welcome.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
Jeff,

Welcome to the forums!

The only advantages that guided systems have over freehand are:

They take more money out of your pocket which helps keeps your wallet from misaligning your spinal column

and

They help keep a constant angle better than most of us can help freehand. A constant angle and some good abrasives are all that's needed. If you can use your just your hands to get the edges you've been getting, you're probably not going to be helped with a guided system like a Lansky.
 
Thanks, Thom. I just bought a Spydie Native with the S30V. I've read here that diamond stones are needed for the S30V. What should I look for in the way of grits, etc? I've never used a diamond stone before.

Jeff
 
You don't need diamonds with S30V. It's tougher to sharpen than some other steels, but it will sharpen quick enough on regular hones.

That said, I have no real experience with diamond hones.

Can anyone else here help out our new friend were he to buy a sharpener made with diamonds?
 
Butch,

If you are looking for diamond sharpeners try DMT. DMT makes many different kinds of good quality diamond sharpeners.

--SAK
 
Originally posted by Butch
Thanks, Thom. I just bought a Spydie Native with the S30V. I've read here that diamond stones are needed for the S30V.....

Jeff
Click to expand...

Hi Butch - I've got a S30V Native and I put a killer edge on it with a Spyderco Sharpmaker. It was pretty easy.
 
I've got a DMT set and it's great but you have to modify it to make it adapt to big blades. DMT fine is 600 grit and extra fine is 1200 grit. Coarse is for quick material removal. Sharpmaker also gets lots of kudos around here. But since you already know how to freehand consider a two sided DMT.
 
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