Which fillet knife to buy; Buck 226 or 420V custom?

D

DanLX

Joined
Mar 28, 2000
Messages
7
Results of searches on this forum were very inconclusive; seems like most reasonably priced knives do not have the best blade steel (and for the most part are very inexpensive). Knife would be used around the Chesapeake Bay or fresh water ponds.
(A) How many fish can be cut before a steel blade of 420HC becomes dull? Some individuals on this forum suggested blades needing re-sharpening after 2 fish. Is this experience typical?
(B) Has anyone had good experiences with a Buck 226 fillet knife (6-1/2" blade)? Apparently Buck fillet knives were redesigned recently. The Buck customer rep said this knife had a 425 Modified steel blade but this forum and the Buck web site suggest 420HC.
(C) How much does a custom 420V fillet knife by Phil Wilson (heat treated to Rc 59 per Cliff Stamp recommendation) cost? An excellent blade is my highest priority; not willing to pay too much for aesthetics in a fillet knife. Presumably synthetic sheaths hold up better around water than leather.
 
go with the Phil Wilson, you will NEVER regret it and will have a knife to pass on for generations!
 
Well, I can tell you from experience,( I work on the Bay everyday) that you can't go wrong with a Schrade/Old Timer Filet knife. They hold a pretty good edge, and are perfect for most of the fish in the bay. You would do good to spray it off and dry it everyday though, as it will rust. Cold Steel's filet knives are also good, but I found I have a couple of issues with them, namely that they have a pretty thick edge out of the box, and the Carbon V isnt the best steel for use around salt water. Hope you find the one best for you. Happy hunting

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"A sharp mind is just as important as a sharp knife."

"Is that a knife in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?" "Both;)"
 
Hi, I know absolutly nothing about fishing and knives used for cleaning ,etc.I am looking at the buck 2001 catalog. the model 226 shows using 420j2 stainless steel. Is this better than 420hc for salt water work?
guy
 
I ordered one of the Knives of Alaska fillet knives with the serrations on the tip (as I recall), but it never came, so I cannot evaluate it.

Falkniven is coming out with a VG-10 fishing knife in July. It has been advertised; and mentioned in their forum on KnifeForums. It sounds as if it might be good, albeit they have made some questionable decisions regarding it. Specifically, they decided to come out with a leather sheath first and later, next year, offer the more practical for fishing use, Kydex sheath. Instead of trying to satisfy fishermen, they apparently want to first satisfy "traditionalists." If they guarantee to take care of any rust problems and mail a kydex sheath out to anyone who requests one, I guess that would eliminate my gripe.
 
Checked out the 420 J2 and AUS 8A blade steel mentioned in the various responses and the 8A has twice as much carbon (over 1%), which should lead to much better edge holding than the 420 J2. Have people had good experience with AUS 8A in a knife blade? Because the heat treatment is so important, I must ask if anyone has had a good experience with the Knives of Alaska Grayling fishing knife? The company claims a "Double-drawn and cryogenic treatment ensures highest quality blade steel with superior edge holding" and an Rc of 57-59, this appears to make sense.
One the down side is what appears to be a leather sheath (around water?).
 
Dan:

[phil wilson 420V blade]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">heat treated to Rc 59 per Cliff Stamp recommendation</font>
Click to expand...

I think Phil is actually going harder now with the CPM-420V. I would check with him anyway. How hard you want to go depends mainly on your skill level. The better you are, the harder you can go with the steel. One of the many benefits of custom work. His blades have meny benefits besides just edge retention, the cutting ability is extremely high, the handles are very ergonomic, the sheaths are very solid and well constructed etc. . Note he also offers different steels which won't give quite the performance, but will reduce the cost. He is quite experienced and will be able to tell you what you are getting for your money, just discuss with him the performance you want to have.


-Cliff
 
I have been using the old style Rapala fillet knives for a LONG time (~$15 new tops). I also use the Frosts of Sweden Fillet knife (~$12) and the Foschner fillet knife (~$15).

If some one borrows it and doesn't return it it doesn't bother me. I don't use fillet knives that much. I generally practice ctach and release.
smile.gif


Just my two cents.


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Ray 'md2020'

ATKI member #A001042
 
Phil Wilson does excellent work, and is priced accordingly.

For a reasonably price 440V blade by a guy who knows how to heat treat 440V, see Melvin Dunn in Kansas. I posted his name/address on forums a few months ago... try the search engine since I'm tired and also lazy. He does a ~4", 6", and 8" with standard pakkawood (which is durable but BUTT ugly) for $120 to $140 range. A compromise from a Wilson but mostly in aesthetics. (I sent him a $50 slab of ironwood for my fillet knife).

 
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