Which glue/epoxy do you guys recomend?

BryFry

BryFry

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So many glues and epoxies out there, it's hard for a newb to figure out what to get!

I'm planning on making mostly full exposed tang knives with slab scales of wood, micarta, and G-10, and will be trying different methods of fixing scales to tang i.e. tubes, pins, threaded standoffs, corby bolts and such... (I'm trying out as many different things as I can to see what I like)

I've read that the longer the epoxy takes to set up, the better it is, but other than that I don't know much, other than the small syringe like dispencers seem like they may be a little wastefull to use on a small knife, unless you can save the unused epoxy that's left over???

Anyway, I could use some suggestions. I'm looking at these here and wondering if any of these products would be right for me:

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=23

...or is there something better?
 
I use the West System epoxy,but acaraglass is good also.
Stan
 
Thanks for the reply SBuzek, which epoxy from West System do you like? There seems to be quite a few types.

....Anyone else here care to volunteer any info? ....Please.

I've heard of Acaraglass, and I see an epoxy "kit" on the link I provided above. I was thinking about getting it but the product description only talks about use for guns?? Is that still the right kind of epoxy to use for knife handles?

...any opinions on the difference between the syringe, can, or bucket-o-goo style of container/dispencers? There just seems to be a lot of product to sort through, it would help alot if someone with experience could point me to a specific product. :)

Thanks!
 
I'll throw this out there for what its worth... but seeing I have yet to glue any knife I've ground thus far, (meaning I still haven't completed my first knife but have about 11 ready :D)

I intend to use west systems on composite materials and gorilla glue on wood.. I made this decision based from what I read on the 'glue wars' thread....
 
Most makers are probably going to either be in the West or Accraglass camp. I use west because I can get it at any marine supply store here in Florida and I have seen it work in the boating industry. if it will hold an $8 milion Rybovich cold molded mahogany sport fishing boat together, it will probably do okay on my knife handles.
 
Ok, so EXACTLY which product by Acraglass or West do you guys use?

Because there is a lot of different stuff by those two brands. I simply don't know what's what when it comes to coosing between the different epoxies, resins, glues, hardeners, single chemical, or double chemicals that you mix, fast dry, slow dry, comes in a can, bucket, syringe, or kit..... I just need to narrow it down a bit. :o

Thanks!
 
I did quite a bit of experimenting and eventually settled upon acraglass. This was based upon the fact that it worked well in my testing and it had a good shelf life. And it has the reputation for holding up well over long periods of time, where many consumer grades of epoxy break down over the years. Obviously it wasn't possible for me to personaly evaluate this last criteria.

I order it direct from Brownells so I know it wasn't sitting on someone's shelf for a long time before I got it.

West also has a good reputation. There is another aero marine epoxy system that competes with west that I have tried and I found its self life was only a couple years. I don't know what west's shelf life is, but acraglas is 5 years.

There are two acraglass epoxies. The regular and the gel. You probably want the regular, it holds up better. It is available in different sizes, you'll want to select a quantity that you'll consume before 5 years.

There is a black die they sell that can be mixed with it to make black epoxy.

It is finicky about being accurately measured out in an exact 4 to 1 ratio. I measured the density so I could use precision powder scales to measure it out by weight (gun powder folks, not nose powder). So I pour out however many grams of epoxy I want, multiply that weight by .263 (notice, not .25, the two components are not the same density) and add that much hardener.

Some people use the scoops. Others use syringe. Don't just use your eye, and never contaminate one volume with traces from the other.
 
Thank you Nathan for the detailed responce. Do you think this Acraglass "kit" from usaknifemaker is the right kind of stuff for knives then? (I'm guessing yes since it's being sold on this site, but the description only talks about use on guns):

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=3540

I just want to make sure I'm getting the correct stuff!

Whatever I end up with, I'll definately keep that in mind to make sure I get any mixture ratios exact!
 
BryFry said:
Thank you Nathan for the detailed responce. Do you think this Acraglass "kit" from usaknifemaker is the right kind of stuff for knives then? (I'm guessing yes since it's being sold on this site, but the description only talks about use on guns):

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=3540

I just want to make sure I'm getting the correct stuff!

Whatever I end up with, I'll definately keep that in mind to make sure I get any mixture ratios exact!
Click to expand...

Yes, that is the epoxy you want, however you might find just the two components (epoxy and hardener) somewhere else by themselves. You will have no use for the release agent or the flock and you may or may not want the dyes (I have needed it once).

I think that is enough epoxy to do about ten knives.
 
Loctitie speedbonder 324 with primer. It is an anaerobic structural adhesive. It's strong and it cures when all oxygen is removed. No mixing, quick cure time - just work fast because it sets up in 3 minutes. I chose it after reading glue wars because I use micarta and g-10 slabs. I might use something else with wood.
 
I use Acraglas from brownells. I buy it in the larger size since I also use it in my gun repair business. I have yet to have it break down or not hold as long as the surfaces are clean. While the listed shelf life is 5 years, I have used some that was over 10 years old that set up as well as new. It only shrinks about 1/10 of one percent while hardening, is resistant to most solvents and acids when cured and doesn't break down over time. I have used to bed rifles that show no change after 5 years of hunting and exposure to weather. Just follow the directions and it is nearly bullet proof.
Chip Kunkle
 
Lots of good suggestions here, but I use West Systems G-Flex slow cure. The G-flex was originally used for marine applications and has the slightest amount of flex to it when fully cured, which helps it absorb shock from drops or impact. I like the slow cure because I don't like to be rushed. I could probably get my scales in place with the five minute version but I like knowing that I have a little extra time if I need it.

I've done some destruction testing on scales and liners made of G-10 and micarta with the West Systems G-Flex and I'm confident using this product. I had to beat on the glued up scales like crazy with bricks hammers, etc just to get the epoxy to begin to separate. This is tough stuff.

Of course, that being said......your prep can make all the difference. Be sure to thoroughly clean all surfaces before glue up. I first wash all parts with a scrub brush and dawn detergent, then do a thorough wipe with acetone, and finally a good wipe with alcohol. I then refrain from touching the surfaces to be glued with my bare hands. Also make sure your scales and your blade tang are roughed up pretty good with some 80 or 100 grit paper.
 
The hand pumps for the west systems seems like a good thing? are hand pumps available for Acraglas if you buy it in large sizes??
 
I like acraglas as well, after 25 years I have used just about everything out there. I mix 5/8 of an ounce at a time which is good for 2-4 knives depending on type. I bought the big bottle and am still using it. I like the long shelf life as well. Its $60-70 for the big bottle, but I can get a lot of knives out of that. Try to mix in a small volume, it can get hot when it turns.
Del
 
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