Which sharpening system/set-up????

B

BostonBull

Joined
Dec 15, 2007
Messages
154
I am VERY new to hand sharpening my knives. I have always used the knife sharpeners you drag the blade through, very bad for the blade, but it sharpens them in a pinch.

I just bought a Benchmade Griptillian 551 in 154CM.

What is the best stone(s), rod, etc etc? I see rods, stones, straps, and other methods. What is best for this knife?

I also have one of these..........http://www.myerchin.com/A377P.html

What is the best method/tool for sharpening this knife?
 
Read the posts about the "Edge Pro" system in this area, down about three posts or so. It will answer a lot of your questions. I've been trying to decide which "system" to go with also, narrowed it down to a toss-up between "Spyderco sharpmaker", and "EdgePro Apex". The "EdgePro" is more $$$, but I'm looking for consistent, repeatable results. And..........I intend to use it on all the pointy, edged things I won. My hands aren't steady enough, and my eyes aren't good enough to sharpen by hand.
 
I hear nothing but good about the Edge Pro...but it's very high-dollar. I say go with the Spyderco Sharpmaker.
 
I kind of thought the same about the $$$$ comparison, but seems to me (my opinion), by the time you get all the stones, etc., plus a strop, plus a ceramic for "fine tune", etc. you have almost the same $$ invested, and the Edge Pro just seems better IMO. I priced one out a while back with (2) complete sets of stones, extra course stones for stone maintenance(2), and shipping, and the whole deal only came to less than $260. (Now bear in mind, I plan to use that to sharpen Everything!! I have) I just think (for me, anyway), the Edge Pro would give more "Doh" proof results. The "Sharpmaker" just doesn't look that easy to master & use.
 
I think it depends on how much sharpening and if you want to re-profile your knives or not. I've never used an EdgePro, but I do have the Spyderco Sharpmaker, and I love it. Contrary to many beliefs, it is very easy to figure out and use. That being said, it is best used for touch ups rather than "heavy sharpening." If the angles on your knife don't match the angles on the Sharpmaker, you are going to be sharpening for a long time. Although, I think that anyone would be pleased with either the EdgePro or Sharpmaker. It just depends on you sharpening needs.
 
Boston, pick up the Sharpmaker first. It will let you get your knife sharp, and it's very easy to use, with very repeatable results. It's quite easy to hold a knife vertical.

Later on, you might want to experiment with different angles, or might want to sharpen a knife that has an edge angle too obtuse for your Sharpmaker. At that point, an Edge Pro is the way to go. I will remove a lot of material and put a nice polish on a knife with my Edge Pro, but the Sharpmaker is what I turn to to put the final edge on.
 
I find plain simple benchstones work best for me. Sharpening isn't that difficult; you're taking metal off two sides (usually) until the edge is sharp again. The various systems help maintain an angle, but you can achieve that with a simple clamp on the back of the blade, or just work slowly with a steady hand under good light. I only use an edge guide when re-establishing the primary bevel and sharpen freehand 99% of the time.
 
I think "FoxholeAtheist" has it right. I was coming at the question from my own opinion and viewpoint, but I have some issues that make the "Sharpmaker" untenable for me, so I leaned to the "EdgePro" system, because I too, heard nothing but good about it.
 
In my opinion, freehandsharpening is the only way to go. It is a skill that will stay with you all of your life once you learn it. It is just as quick or quicker than any guided system out there. I used a lansky for a few years after having freehand sharpened all of my life. I learned it early on, and now I have gone back to it with no regrets. Once you learn the basisc, you can modify your own technique to suit your liking. It's really not that difficult to learn and is well worth the effort. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me at smitty0331@msn.com.
 
The same issues that make the "Sharpmaker" untenable for me also make the "by hand" route impossible, (i.e.- poor eyesight, and arthritic hands) Although, I would agree, it's probably the "best" method. Just not for me. Like I said, all things considered, the "Edge Pro" fits my needs perfectly. I wish it were a little cheaper also, but if it was, might not get the quality it seems to posses.
 
I just purchased the DMT Aligner system based on another thread here. So far, I like it just fine. I could never seem to get the hang of my Sharpmaker for some reason. I do some freehand, but I'm not very good at it.
 
I do my rebeveling freehand with DMT XXcoarse, then coarse, then fine. After this I move to my sharpmaker and put on a 30 or 40 degree microbevel and it gets the knife hair popping sharp. The sharpmaker really helps and is great because its really all you need after rebeveling.
 
i have been using the cardboard wheels for 16 years and i havent seen anything else that compares to consistent results and speed once you learn how to use them.
 
The SHarpmaker only has 30 and 40 degree sharpening holes, but with a protractor and some simple wood shims, you can change the angle to whatever suits you. For example, a 1/4" shim, placed in a marked location near one end of the base, will give you 25 degrees in the 30deg holes (12.5 degrees per side). You just have to remember to swap the shim end for end when sharpening the other side of the blade.

True, the Sharpmaker does not excel at removing alot of material such as when re-beveling the edge. For this, I wrap the rods in 220 or 320, or whatever grit, wet/dry paper and grind away. Using the 1/4" spacer block, 30 degree holes, and 220 wet/dry, I've reground three of my blades to 25 degrees. Now that they're re-ground, I sharpen them at 25 degrees, remove the spacer, and take several light passes at 30 degrees for a micro-bevel.

The Sharpmaker has some limitations, but it's FAST to setup and use, and it'll get you used to "finding" the edge and making it sharp.
 
You want easy? Try the DMT Magna Guide. Diamond stone Diafold sharpening surface (F and EF), portable, extremely easy setup, no real learning curve.

I have the SharpMaker and also the prefer the DMT Magna Guide system big time! Here's a demo for your info http://www.dmtsharp.com/video/magna_guide.html

The SM was designed to maintain an already sharp edge, god help you if you let it get dull, it takes a very long time to remove any steel from any of the premium steel knives without a diamond stone to intially set the edge.

Good Luck.

NJ
 
To do my Moras on the Sharpmaker I place the extra triangle stone under the base in the middle and tilt the whole unit from side to side. Its VERY close to the perfect angle on Moras,

If you place a pivot in the center:
Deg change Height of pivot.
1 .067
2 .135
3 .202
4 .270
5 .337
6 .405

The triangle stone heights is .442
use these as approximates for angles.
 
Thanks for the replies!

I have looked at the device sugestions. The Edge PRO seems very slick, but at $500, a bit pricey!
The Sharpmaker might be the way to go, but I would like to learn to hand sharpen with stones. Is this that difficult to master? I am an Arborist, and sharpen all my chains by hand, with GREAT results. I can easily make a chain cut faster than out of the box. But those are round files and curved surfaces not flat on the cutting tooth.

Which stones would you recommend, and which grit? It seems 3 stones are needed generally.

is there a way to get out of this for under $100, or will I be wasting my money? I like to buy quality stuff. AG Russell has 3 DMT stones in a wood box for $115. Any good?
 
Just for the info..........there is an "EdgePro" system thats priced below the "Pro". It's called the "Apex". I priced one out here a while back, with two extra sets of stones & shipping, and it came to about $260. Realize that's still pricey, but I'm savin' for it.
 
I've been using the Lansky for years and have always had excellent results with it. Recently I added a leather strop with CRO2 compound to finish and maintain my edges. I think with the Lansky it is the perfect set up for me.
 
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