Woodchuck question

K

kremeking

Joined
Feb 15, 2001
Messages
70
OK, for you woodchucks out there here goes:

I have a canemaster hickory cane that I want to put a good high gloss tung oil finish on. I have applied appoximately 9 coats of tung oil over a two week period and although I have a decent satin shine it is not the high gloss shine I desire.

I have been using a combined method. Sometines using the directions that are on the can and then buffing with dry cloth and alternately the directions given by master shuey which involves applying tung oil, wiping excess, allowing to dry for 12 hours, applying a light coat of mineral oil, and then buffing with 1500 grit sandpaper.

I am finding that the sandpaper seems to dull down the finish. and the buff with the cloth gives me only a temporary high gloss shine at best.

What am I doing wrong?????

I have heard the woodies here speak of buffing with #0000 steel wool. Not sure if that will work, or if it my destroy all the work put in so far and dull down the moderate shine I have been able to achieve with my weak skills.

Please, someone WHO KNOWS, HEEEEEEEEEELPPPPP!!!!!!
 
100% pure tung oil gives a low gloss or matte finish. Some tung oils have additives that make it shine. That's about all I know. Perhaps Walosi is lurking around somewhere to add some wisdom here.
 
from the folks who make PermaBlue. all sorts of good stuff for steel and wood.

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html

Alan (ACStudios) did a great job with this stuff on the YCS that I own (he was owner #1, I'm owner #3). I gotta get some for my woden sword scabbards...shiny as you want it to be, and they make a polyeurethane tooo

Keith
En Ferro Veritas
 
Master Shuey is a fine martial artist, and an excellent instructor. Unfortunately, he ain't a Woodchuck. I've used his oil blend, Tru Oil, and Formby's tung oil finish (both high gloss and lowg loss) on three Canemasters Triple Grips.

On the last, a hickory heart, I used Formby's High Gloss Tung Oil. After a light sanding with 600 grit (no need for anything coarser - they come well sanded) steel wool it down with 0000. Then, apply "finger dunks" (as little as you can get on a finger tip) and spread it as far as you can over the surface. This is as repetitive as all get-out, but the idea is to get a very thin layer over the entire surface. Let it dry until it is HARD - no tackiness left at all. Steel wool it down to the wood (or what seems to be - you won't get it all off) and repeat. My cane took 12 coats before it really set up and began to show the inside grain. I stopped at 20, because my hands were not recuperating as fast as the coats dried. Polish the last coat with an old T Shirt, and apply Johnson's Paste Wax, thinly and the same way you applied the oil (but with heavy polishing instead of the steel wool, between coats). Mine looked "right" after four coats of wax, and I've used it heavily for nearly a year now,and have only re-applied wax to the handle three times - it will wear off, but it keeps the tung finish from wearing, and from being effected by sweat from your hand. Used as a fighter, you can hold the cne lightly and slide it form one grip to another. When you grip down on it, it STOPS, whether your hand is gripping the cut-outs or on a smooth section. This finish is beautiful,long wearing, and an immense aid in griping for blocks, blows and hooks....walking , too.
 
Wal,

You say "Finger dunks", but finger dunks of what? Formsbys high gloss? Tru-oil?. I currently use Behr tung oil and I am starting to see a little more shine after 12 coats, but still not quite what I want. Also, do you think I should use the 600 grit now after 12 initial coats,sandings, and polishes? Or should I just go to your method of coating and hardening, then buff and wax? the cane feels great in my hand now and slides effortlessly and stops when I need. Will be taking the second certification with Master shuey in august. Thanks for all the info and advice.


Shalom


Krem
 
Krem -

I only use the 0000 steel wool between coats, after the first has dried and hardened. Sanding is surface perparation, to get rthe smoothest surface possible prior to oiling. As to "finger dunks of what", if you already have that many of your present oil, stick with it. "Finger Dunk" - I touch the liquid that stays in the bottle cap, after it is removed, with a finger tip, and spread this "half drop" or so over as much surface area as possible - the thinner, the better. Overlap each "dunk" application. The steel wooling will even it out. The result is intended to be many thin, hard coats, very translucent and durable, which will let light into the surface grain, and also seal it. Brushing the oil on, dipping, or daubing it on with a rag, loses the "onion skin" coating, and much of the grain enhancement.

Whatever shine you now have will be pepped up a bit by a couple of thin coats of wax, left to harden before buffing.
 
Walosi,

What is your opinion of the tru-oil finish on these hickory canes. Just looked at a couple or cobras with tru-oil treatment and they look awesome, though I can't account for the feel and slide in cane application. Give me your opinion if you will.

Thanks

Krem
Shalom
 
I used the tung oil mostly due to Shueys' opinion that it was a tougher finish. Having sold a few thousand more of these than I have finished, I was willing to give him the benefit of the doubt :p
Two things, though - Tru Oil is a tung based finish (just a little lighter than the Formbys'), and there is the final wax finish to contend with, in coming to any wear/use/appearance conclusions.
The crook of my cane has been finished _heavily_, because it is constant use (even indoors, as time goes on) and the wax takes the brunt of the wear and finish erosion. It is the buffer between sweat and friction wear, and the oil finish.
All said, the Tru Oil is also intended for heavy-use applications. Properly done, a well Tru Oiled rifle stock can take up to six weeks to finish, and two-three hours to "re-hab" after it has been beat to hell on a wet, muddy hunting trip.
Both concoctions contain penetrants, brighteners and other helpful ingredients, both developed along different lines of research. Mostly my guess, but I suspect the Tru Oil has seen (in the develoment process) more "fancy grain" gunstock woods than were even available to the Formbys' folks who were searching for furniture applications.
Final results (beyond what is available for display in the woods themselves) depends on application methods - the ability of the finisher to apply many THIN coats, make them bond, keep them translucent, and apply a wax protectant without hindering that result.
WAAAAY deep down, my nod still goes to the Tru Oil, but the Formbys' still can't be faulted, except that it may be a little slower in getting the same result...and that is very subjective.
 
How does one measure one's self for the correct length of cane?

Something I've always wondered about but felt too stupid to ask.
 
Bruiser, not OT a'tall a'tall....if your cane does not fit, kinked mucscles in your back and shoulders can result, making it difficult to swing a Khukuri. And unsafe, too. IIRC (a big leap of faith) it is in the order section of the Canemasters site:

http://www.canemaster.com/products.htm

My WebTV is "unable to make a secure connection" with this page. Big surprise. Stand, with your hands at your sides, and let someone measure from your palm to the floor. Add one inch to this measurement, and you will be in the ballpark. Mine are cut 1 1/2" longer, as the little bit extra helps me pry my butt up from low-slung chairs and sofas. Most comfortable length is very personal, but the changeable grip afforded by a crook-top cane allows for some deviation. Better to get it a little long, and adjust in 1/2" increments if necessary.
 
All the canes are created based on your height (which you supply when ordering). The prescribed manner for checking proper length once the cane arrives is to place the cane, crook side down along your strong arm side until the crook rests on the ground. The cane should reach the small bone of the wrist and really not far beyond that. The longer it gets, the more challenging it is to control when throwing techniques.
 
Thanks for good help :D

I once saw a young(ish?) woman carrying a cane. It seemed that the top of the crook reached her rib cage. I figure it wasn't for walking but for hitting creeps. ;)
 
That's not the person I saw. :o

I saw someone shorter, and heavier. She also wore more sensible shoes.
 
Originally posted by BruiseLeee
That's not the person I saw. :o

I saw someone shorter, and heavier. She also wore more sensible shoes.
Click to expand...

........and a burkha?....I mean, being a Saudi, and all....:rolleyes:
 
trich.gif

...maybe you should go a little easier with that stuff Bruise :D
 
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