Worth skipping work for...Big ol bowie is finished

Your a lucky fellow Robert. I own the business so the boss won't let me take off.....:D Beautiful Knife.....Lotta work and it shows!
 
How you doing robert that knife is one of the nicer pieces i have seen in a long time. If you dont mind me asking is this bowie the one where i told you how to heat brown and antique it so you would get a old look on the blade.And if so did you find it to be the type of look that you where searching for and did you find it easy for you to do.

Lee Brooks
Knifemaker
BROOKSKNIVES.canada


brooksknives@hotmail.com
 
Thanks to all, it means alot!
Lee,
Yes I used your suggestion on the Browning.
Thanks
What grit do you take your blades to before using it? Label says to polish first???

It was easy the label suggests 250deg and thats what I used. Needs to be hotter than reccomended because it cools the blade fast and makes it difficult to get both sides even.
Next time I will try 125deg to see if I can get a lighter patina and no etching beforehand. This one had a good temperline so I wanted it to really stand out.

Bruce,
get ready to whip up some Damascus for me (In your spare time) because the next Bowie is on the drawing board;)
 
Hello rob glad it worked for you what i do is take the blade down to 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper i do this dry so that it will open up the grain in the steel. After i brown i sand with 400 grit that i have wet with oil or wd40 and rub till i get the look i want as for the blade cooling.

What i do to help with this is put the browning into a shallow glass or metal cake pan and heat to 120-130 deg and then soak the blade for abought30-45 seconds. And then take a look to see if it is the patina i want if not i will soak it again for 30-45 and take another look and i will do this till i get what i want.

When i reach the patina im looking for then i wipe the excese off and sand till i get a worn look to the blade like it has been pulled in and out of its sheath a couple hundred times this way it looks like it has been used for a numbers of years hope this helps

If you need anymore help with the process please feel free to contact me at my email and i will do what i can to help you.


Lee Brooks
Knifemaker
BROOKSKNIVES.canada


brooksknives@hotmail.com
 
Robert, that's awesome! One massive bad boy. I like everything about it, all works together perfectly. Do you take your knives back to work for show and tell like I do? Fantastic, thanks for sharing that.

dave
 
Very cool bowie, bet any mountain man would give his eye teeth to have something like that! The ebony realy dresses it up.
 
I have a question Robert. When I do a full convex grind I have trouble getting what I consider an acceptable edge. How did you manage or did you just settle for a camp knife edge?
 
Peter,
It started out as flat grind about half way up the blade. I didn't like the look so I switched to a Convex. This allowed the edge to be taken to about 20 thousands before HT. That combined with the cleanup grind and etch too it to almost zero.
I have yet to put an edge on it because I need to get the sheath done first (Safer to handle).
It is almost sharp without and edge but the Convex is plenty thick enough to be strong.
Hope that made sense!
 
Thanks Robert. It does make sense. I built a Bowie several years ago and made a full convex edge because I liked the looks. It will get sharp but not as sharp as I'd like. It will hold that edge forever so I guess It is a suitable tradeoff.....anyway....Beautiful knife! You should be very proud of that piece of work.:)
 
Any suggestions for a sheath...
I am seeing a high ride with a Latigo piece at the top and bottom maybe a Concho

Feel free to Chime in!
 
convex grinds never feel as sharp as a set angle edge. the thing is that the whole blade does the cutting instead of just the vee edge. once you start to pull is when the action happens. there are japanese culinary knives that have no perciveable edge. the convex grind is polished to the very edge and man do they cut.
 
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