WTK : Paracord wrapped handles

Yojimbo

Yojimbo

Joined
Jul 14, 2002
Messages
147
Hi all,

I've recently got the Hawk bug and I will be receiving a CS Vietnam Tomahawk shortly. I know it's not the greatest Tomahawk so don't worry I'm saving for a ATC Next Gen Ranger.

I've seen some hawks where a portion of the handle and or where the base of the blade is wrapped in paracord. Does anyone have some good step by step "For Dummies" instructions on how to do this?

I found a few good links on the net with some basic instructions but many require some type of hole to be drilled in the handle. One wrapping How-To has you drill a hole about 6-8" up the handle where the you would knot and pull through through the paracord to begin wrapping. Wouldn't drilling a hole any place other than bottom of the handle weaken it?

Thanks!

Chris
 
Yes, drilling a hole in the handle will weaken it, how much so I am not sure. You could simply fill it in with epoxy after the cord is in place to solve the problem. or you could just glue the cord onto the handle to start it.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

Thanks for the info. I'll use glue for the starter so I won't need to do any drilling.

Regards,

Chris
 
Hello,

Can you describe a cinching loop? I only have a vague idea of how to finish one, and don't know how to start the thing.

Thanks,
Snuffy
 
It's simple to show someone, but a lot harder to describe in writing.

You take a length of paracord longer than you will need (maybe 15 ft+). You make a loop in one end a couple inches longer than the length of the area you intend to wrap. You straighten out the loop so the two sides of the loop are touching each other. You lay the loop (which now has no space between its sides) along the shaft of the hawk. The closed end of the loop goes toward the head of the hawk. The open end of the loop is placed at the end of the hawk shaft.

You take the long end of the paracord and begin winding it VERY tightly around the hawk shaft and the loop, starting at the end of the shaft. You are winding toward the head. After you have wound to within about a half inch of the closed end of the loop, you thread the long end of the paracord through the loop. You hold everything together very tightly. You then take a set of pliers and grab the other end of the paracord (the short end) that is protruding out from under the wrap, at the end of the hawk shaft. You pull smoothly and forcefully on this end. It will pull the other end under the wrapped area. You need only pull it under a couple winds of the wrap and it will be secure. You trim and burn the loose end on which you were just pulling. You trim and burn the excess from the long end, that was just pulled under the wrap.

This produces a wrap with no wrist lanyard. If you want a wrist loop at one end of the wrap or the other, you have to vary the procedure a bit.

When I am laying the loop along the shaft to start the procedure, I usually put it on the left side of the shaft for right handers. Some people put it along the bottom of the shaft. The thing to bear in mind is that the captured loop will create a ridge under the length of the wrap and you don't want that ridge right under your palm where it might cause irritation.

If this isn't clear (which wouldn't surprise me one bit), please let me know what I can clarify.
 
I forgot to mention: It usually takes me at least 10 ft of paracord to wrap about 6-7 inches of hawk shaft. If you are wrapping a longer section, it will of course require more paracord. I know it sounds like a lot of cord, but it goes quickly when winding. I used almost ten feet when wrapping the handle of a Cold Steel Bushman (which really helps, incidentally).
 
Thanks. There have been some threads in the wilderness and practical tactical forums on where to get the best deal on paracord. You might try a search. Cheaper than Dirt, Major Surplus, and Sportsman's Guide occasionally have decent prices. I like to get the real stuff that actually meets the milspec requirements, just for peace of mind. It doesn't matter much for wrapping handles, but for other applications it could be important to have a full-strength product.
 
Glad to help. As you undoubtedly figured out, you can add a wrist lanyard at either end of the wrap (you could call it a "loop" for your wrist but I'm not using that term to avoid confusion with the original loop over which you are wrapping). For a wrist lanyard at the end of the hawk shaft, just start with a longer "short end" to your loop. After you've used it to pull the wrap tight, tie a wrist lanyard before you trim and burn the paracord.

For a wrist lanyard at the top of the wrap (closer to the hawk head), tie it in the "long end" that you have cinched under the wrap. Then trim and burn. If you put the wrist lanyard on the end of the wrap closest to the head, you may have to pull the cinch tighter, i.e., under a few more winds of the wrap. When anchoring a forward position lanyard, the "long end" will be taking stress rather than just sitting there. You wouldn't want tension on a forward lanyard to loosen your wrap.
 
Thanks!

Your descriptions are actually just what I needed. I've been thinking about trying to wrap with some leather cord I have, but there may be too much friction when I try to pull it through. I'll have to experiment.
 
With leather cord, I've heard that some people lightly lube the loop being wrapped with a little moistened bar soap. Supposedly it will stay slippery long enough to cinch off the long end. When the soap dries, it is supposed to lose lubricity so that the cinch won't come loose. I haven't tried it so I can't tell you whether or not it will work. If you decide to give it a shot, please let us know.

I'm thinking of doing a leather wrap on the handle of my non-military Two Hawks Warhawk but I haven't decided whether to use leather cord or a wider leather strip. If that is successful, I may replace the paracord wrap on the Longhunter with leather for a more traditional look.

Best of luck.
 
The wrap technique described is basically a hangman's knot with the handle inside. You can practice it with a piece of cord without the handle or on a chunk of dowel.

Brigade Quartermasters has military paracord in large spools for about 16 bucks. It is military OD by Gladding (military contractor).

I use a machined and flared copper ferrule pressed and epoxied into the handle on my military hawks which have the paracord grip wrap/wrist thong.

I allow 18 feet of paracord; after final trimming when the wrist thong has been finished off there is about 16 to 17 feet left. But I use a knotted/braided wrap technique which is more secure but takes more cord than just round-and-round wrapping.

Hope this information helps.

TWO HAWKS
http://www.2hawks.net
 
Two Hawks,

Thanks for the info! I noticed on another thread where your Military Warhawk was pictured that you have the lanyard loop at the top of the wrapped handle instead of the bottom. What are the advantages of doing this?

Thanks,

Chris
 
Dear Yojimbo,
This is known as the "ice axe" position as it is functionally the same as the above-the-wrist loop of an ice axe. Though it does not slide up and down the handle like the wrist loop on the ring on the ice axe (and of course this is not a 24 to 30 inch handle).
The principle is the same, but with the fixed handle ferrule works a lot better for thrusts (forward strikes, top of the blade toward the target). When the hand/wrist is inserted down through the loop and the hand grasps the handle, it resists any displacement of the hand with either a forward or pull cut. You can (like the ice axe) hang from the hawk if you are using it as a climbing aid. It is actually harder to describe than it is to do it when you've got the tool in your hand.
Next step, if you can visualize this .... if the hand releases the grip on the handle and allows the hawk to pivot by gravity to a head down position, and then re-grasps the grip area (still attached firmly by the wrist thong) you now have a multi-direction edged tool in a "reverse" position .... ask your Filipino martial arts friends about this presentation of the tool. Another release and twist of the wrist and you are back to a "primary" grip for conventional slashes, thrusts (with the top razor edge) and hook cuts (with the lower razor edge).
Hope this information helps.
Best regards,
TWO HAWKS
http://www.2hawks.net
 
Check out this page for pics (works on a handle just like a bare tang):
http://runningdogknife.homestead.com/cordwrap.html
I have my GB small Forest Axe flat-wrapped, and really like the way it feels in use.
btw, I used some cheapo camo cord from Wal-Mart. 550 cord made it too thick for my hands, and I didn't want to waste the cord if I pulled out the strands and then didn't like it. It has held up well so far.
Let's see if this works...
173301-gransfors.jpg
 
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