Received my WWII by Kumar the other day and all is 10/10 except the buttcap is separated form the handle a slight bit. The buttcap is not loose but was curious if I should do something now like an epoxy fix or something else. The Khuk is great! Quite beefy, it is the 30 oz that was a PGA a while back. Should be good for heavy duty work just wondering if anybody has any ideas or comments on the buttcap gap.
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WWII buttcap fix?
- Thread starter hoghead
- Start date
I'm inexperienced with this stuff, but I stuck a line of epoxy in my BAS horn handle that was starting to seperate a little. I didn't want to get into tapping the cap back in place. Some on the forum have warned about possible negative reactions with himalayan epoxy and modern epoxies coming in contact.
That seemed to fix it with my BAS. If more happens later I'll attempt another fix.
munk
That seemed to fix it with my BAS. If more happens later I'll attempt another fix.
munk
- Joined
- May 16, 2002
- Messages
- 4,437
Maybe a moisture related thing, I think humidity levels can expand and shrink scabbards, and handles (horn & wood parts).
Try the putty fix, of stick some leather or plastic in there.
Keith
Try the putty fix, of stick some leather or plastic in there.
Keith
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2002
- Messages
- 70
hoghead,
i have had good luck with devcon 30 min epoxy...i use a heavy duty cut off disc on my dremel tool to cut a nice thin, even channel between the butt cap and the handle material all the way around. this gives you a uniform space that is wide enough to make sure you get good penetration with the gooey epoxy (i stuff it into the crack with a toothpick) and also leaves a fresh, laha free surface for the epoxy to stick to. this might seem a bit involved, but i dye my epoxy black so that it either matches the horn, or looks like a nice black spacer if the handle is wood (another reason to cut a regular channel out with the dremel tool). the only really tricky part is getting the epoxy to stay in the gap all the way around the handle...it wants to run out. i've had good luck with two ways around this, you can either mix up a good size batch of epoxy and sit there for a half an hour a keep ladling epoxy into the groove as it sets up, or seal off most of the groove with masking tape and then pour (or even better) inject the epoxy into the space. in either case you're going to need to do a little filing / sanding / buffing to get the excess epoxy off, but if you do a decent job,i think this solution ends up looking pretty slick.
blah blah blah...boy, i sure can run off at the mouth...
good luck,
e.
i have had good luck with devcon 30 min epoxy...i use a heavy duty cut off disc on my dremel tool to cut a nice thin, even channel between the butt cap and the handle material all the way around. this gives you a uniform space that is wide enough to make sure you get good penetration with the gooey epoxy (i stuff it into the crack with a toothpick) and also leaves a fresh, laha free surface for the epoxy to stick to. this might seem a bit involved, but i dye my epoxy black so that it either matches the horn, or looks like a nice black spacer if the handle is wood (another reason to cut a regular channel out with the dremel tool). the only really tricky part is getting the epoxy to stay in the gap all the way around the handle...it wants to run out. i've had good luck with two ways around this, you can either mix up a good size batch of epoxy and sit there for a half an hour a keep ladling epoxy into the groove as it sets up, or seal off most of the groove with masking tape and then pour (or even better) inject the epoxy into the space. in either case you're going to need to do a little filing / sanding / buffing to get the excess epoxy off, but if you do a decent job,i think this solution ends up looking pretty slick.
blah blah blah...boy, i sure can run off at the mouth...
good luck,
e.
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Thanks for good help.
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
First of all since it's only a "slight" gap go to WalMart, get some Bondini-2 Super Glue and pour some of it in there.
If it's more than a "slight" gap get the Bondini-2 in the gel form that Pappy is so high on, so as to fill the gap.
I have yet to have anything I've fixed with this glue fail, It's absolutely the best Super Glue I've ever found!!!!!!!!!!
If it's more than a "slight" gap get the Bondini-2 in the gel form that Pappy is so high on, so as to fill the gap.
I have yet to have anything I've fixed with this glue fail, It's absolutely the best Super Glue I've ever found!!!!!!!!!!
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
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- 2,737
"huffing"....
I recall the case of genius who decided to do Pam, (...the cooking spray!) a few years ago. Seems he coated the inside of his lungs with a very thin layer of vegetable oil, and they couldn't exchange gases anymore. Instant toast, make that powdered toast. Dunno if he skipped science class, or had already killed all his brain cells sniffing other stuff.
Very nasty habit...it's best to avoid breathing such things--even a little by accident.
I recall the case of genius who decided to do Pam, (...the cooking spray!) a few years ago. Seems he coated the inside of his lungs with a very thin layer of vegetable oil, and they couldn't exchange gases anymore. Instant toast, make that powdered toast. Dunno if he skipped science class, or had already killed all his brain cells sniffing other stuff.
Very nasty habit...it's best to avoid breathing such things--even a little by accident.
I recall the case of genius who decided to do Pam, (...the cooking spray!) a few years ago. Seems he coated the inside of his lungs with a very thin layer of vegetable oil, and they couldn't exchange gases anymore>> Firkin
Like many people today, his education convinced him nothing, 'natural', like vegitable oil, could hurt him.
At least he provided a non stick surface for the Medical Examiner's blade.
munk
Like many people today, his education convinced him nothing, 'natural', like vegitable oil, could hurt him.
At least he provided a non stick surface for the Medical Examiner's blade.
munk
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
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- 15,395
If Pappy is like me not long at all.
I know you were tzn.
I used several bottles, about 8 I think it was, of the Bondini to put a finish on my personal Flute and after a couple of coats had to take it outside real quick!!!!
The dayumed stuff smels bad and makes your head spin. I can think of other more pleasant ways to get off and off the planet as well.
Makes for a very thick, beautiful, durable and super, super, super slick finish that's not at all slippery, even when wet.
YOu know I'll be getting a bottle of the stuff. Strange the uses for things not originally intended...like superglue fumes showing fingerprints up in an enclosed space.
I bet you've gadgets lying around for various tasks not immediately apparent to the eye. I love those gizmo's and gadgets.
munk
I bet you've gadgets lying around for various tasks not immediately apparent to the eye. I love those gizmo's and gadgets.
munk
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
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- 20,978
hoghead = see how a simple question can get twisted around to talking about superglue?
you should check out the "ignore this thread" thread...
you should check out the "ignore this thread" thread...
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
The threads do tend to wander.
Don't really need to "get off" this planet but there always are those days. Personally, thanks for the help. Not sure what to try. I have a couple of khuks that the kami's fixed with epoxy and it seems to work. Might try the bondini fix. Like to do something simple rather than try to remove the buttcap and refit it. I do like to tinker with stuff and sometimes fix things. At least with the Bondini fix if it doesn't work you probably won't care a whole lot, at least for a while!
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
- Messages
- 2,737
Whoah, dood! Thanx for the tip....
I neeeeed a fix!
Wow, wait, man...Have we been here before?
Seriously, a question for the Bondini advocates:
Does the Bondini product out-perform other CA glues that you have tried, or did it just work so well that you've never considered to try other CA products?
(CA = cyanoacrylate or "superglue")
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
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I've never used it.
If I have a 1/4 " hole to fill I'm not going to use Bondini. Devcon, and a few others that I have used that employ a hardener work better for very large projects. Even J B Weld would be better for large jobs and it is a little darker in color too.
with the clear epoxy some charcoal dust will darken the fill up so you don't have to dye it. I mix the dust in the resin before adding the hardener. If you get too much dust you will know it real quick so you can add resin. Waste of a small amount I can handle but throwing the stuff away and starting over is a no no with me. The same can be done with fine saw dust on the wood handles. I would rather force some of the dust into the goo while wet on the wood handles. I've had better luck that way. Looks more like a true wood filler.
with the clear epoxy some charcoal dust will darken the fill up so you don't have to dye it. I mix the dust in the resin before adding the hardener. If you get too much dust you will know it real quick so you can add resin. Waste of a small amount I can handle but throwing the stuff away and starting over is a no no with me. The same can be done with fine saw dust on the wood handles. I would rather force some of the dust into the goo while wet on the wood handles. I've had better luck that way. Looks more like a true wood filler.
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- May 18, 1999
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The Bondini-2 is just the Absolute Best I've ever found and the most economical as well!!!!
A .14 oz (4 gram) bottle is less than $3.00, quite a bit less or was the last time I bought any.
I buy about 8 bottles at a time and keep it in the fridge until I need it.
Pappy that's a great trick with the charcoal, never thought of that.