- Joined
- Jun 22, 1999
- Messages
- 67
Hi guys,
The second group of 6 knives went off to Edgeworks on Friday, 3/24. These are all bead blasted blades and handles, 6 black, 6 green.
The third batch of 10 (polished blades, polished handles, 5 black, 5 white) should go for blueing around the end of next week.
WWIII care department:
1. I shipped the second batch with the blades wrapped in waxed paper, instead of plastic bags to prevent rubbing. One of the blades I was working on for the next batch showed some rust spots in the plastic bag (probably from "sweating"). I'm not sure if this would happen to a blued blade with Tetra lubricant applied, but the waxed paper is probably a safer shipping & storage medium, since it allows some air flow.
2. Sooner or later you're going to scratch the blueing. I got curious as to what would be the best "touch up" for the charcoal bluing we are using. I purchased several small bottles of cold blueing solutions and tested them. The one that works best (at least on the bead blasted blades) is Birchwood-Casey "Perma Blue". On light scratches, the touch up is undetectable. The color is that good a match. I didn't try scuffing up a larger area, since it's my own blade I'm working on. I cleaned with Acetone, applied the cold blue solutions with an artists brush, watched the color change, and wiped with water when it looked right.
I'll get back to you when there's more to report.
Thanks,
Bob Couture
The second group of 6 knives went off to Edgeworks on Friday, 3/24. These are all bead blasted blades and handles, 6 black, 6 green.
The third batch of 10 (polished blades, polished handles, 5 black, 5 white) should go for blueing around the end of next week.
WWIII care department:
1. I shipped the second batch with the blades wrapped in waxed paper, instead of plastic bags to prevent rubbing. One of the blades I was working on for the next batch showed some rust spots in the plastic bag (probably from "sweating"). I'm not sure if this would happen to a blued blade with Tetra lubricant applied, but the waxed paper is probably a safer shipping & storage medium, since it allows some air flow.
2. Sooner or later you're going to scratch the blueing. I got curious as to what would be the best "touch up" for the charcoal bluing we are using. I purchased several small bottles of cold blueing solutions and tested them. The one that works best (at least on the bead blasted blades) is Birchwood-Casey "Perma Blue". On light scratches, the touch up is undetectable. The color is that good a match. I didn't try scuffing up a larger area, since it's my own blade I'm working on. I cleaned with Acetone, applied the cold blue solutions with an artists brush, watched the color change, and wiped with water when it looked right.
I'll get back to you when there's more to report.
Thanks,
Bob Couture