30 Degree Edge Angle on Hard Use INFI?

BePrepared

BePrepared

Joined
Aug 26, 2010
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I just got myself a Wicked Edge, and i'm about to use it on my TGLB. I am wondering if anyone has an opinion on whether the 30 degree angle will be durable enough on this blade
 
LVC would be a geat person to ask. He has posted a few threads about INFI edge angles. My favorite was about his custom BOSS Jack edge and back bevel.

It sounds too thin to me without a microbevel though
 
I really love the factory zero convex edge on my TGLB. Don't have idea about the angle but you should try sharpen it to be same as the factory would be a good idea.
 
You might need to do a whole lot of grinding on the wicked edge to bring it down to 30 degrees. That is if you mean inclusive. I sharpen all my infi on the wicked edge, even my B11. It might take some moving around and adjusting angles but its doable. For thick blades like a TGLB I would mark the edge with a sharpie, grind to where you are just barely reaching the apex and dont worry too much about what the number read.
 
Shoot an email or PM to Jerry or Beef. I'm sure they would be happy to answer the question.

Personally, for hard use I'd go convex because it has more edge behind the edge. :D


Wicked edge is good stuff, though... I prefer a V edge on my 6" and under blades. Convex is better for something that might be chopping methinks.

.
 
Right, is that included or per side? Since there is no convention here, one must always be specific on this point.
 
I sharpened my TGLB to a 22 degree edge. It's so tough it can take it just fine. And it cuts really well.
 
I take it your talking about 30 inclusive(15 per side). I would only go that low on smaller pocket knives used for EDC, and I usually stay with 40 per side on those.
40 with a 30 degree micro bevel works well for me on smaller knives.
A 40 degree edge will be tougher, and also hold an edge longer.
 
Thanks for all the input folks. Yes i was referring to 30 inclusive.

I currently have a convex edge on it, and it's shaving sharp, but nowhere near as sharp as i can get it with the WE

maybe i'll stick with 40 degrees inclusive. I don't expect to do a lot of food slicing with this knife so maybe the more obtuse angle would be preferable
 
BePrepared said:
Thanks for all the input folks. Yes i was referring to 30 inclusive.

I currently have a convex edge on it, and it's shaving sharp, but nowhere near as sharp as i can get it with the WE

maybe i'll stick with 40 degrees inclusive. I don't expect to do a lot of food slicing with this knife so maybe the more obtuse angle would be preferable
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I took my FBMLE thinner and thinner years ago. On my belt grinder. I had a very notted 2x4 I would test the edge on next to my grinder. I don't know numbers but I know I ended up less than 30 degrees with a convex edge. When I figured out what was too thin I ground it back a little. I lost edge doing this, but since these trials a few years back my FBMLE has been used HEAVILY and handed around to be used on lots of hardwood clearing. The edge is good to go.

I would not be afraid to go 30 but then again, I don't know the V vs Convex on this one.

Here are a couple pics of the edge I ended up with:

IMG-20110910-00088.jpg


District10-20110910-00085.jpg


District10-20110910-00083.jpg


Some people may shy away and go more for strength, but IMO geometry cuts, not INFI. I want to take advantage of a steel and find the most aggressive geometry I can get out of it. This FBMLE was a dud with the factory edge, after I found its peak it is a chopping demon for a 10" blade.

Kevin
 
You should check out Cliff Stamp's thoughts on this. He is one of the most relentless testers of blades and steels that I've seen. In fact I believe he is one of the very few people to take the time, energy and dedication to break a Busse knife. He happily thins his SHBM down to 10 degrees per side (20 inclusive) and also discusses its durability.

http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/reviews/bm_e.html

Thin it down. Having had the BJ and TG with their thick edges, I soon got bored of the fact that while they were perfectly optimized for stabbing through bricks, they didn't really do knife things very well. ThINFI is the best
 
joshiecole said:
You should check out Cliff Stamp's thoughts on this. He is one of the most relentless testers of blades and steels that I've seen. In fact I believe he is one of the very few people to take the time, energy and dedication to break a Busse knife. He happily thins his SHBM down to 10 degrees per side (20 inclusive) and also discusses its durability.

http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/reviews/bm_e.html

Thin it down. Having had the BJ and TG with their thick edges, I soon got bored of the fact that while they were perfectly optimized for stabbing through bricks, they didn't really do knife things very well. ThINFI is the best
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Based on lots of current testing it almost appears to me that current INFI is Rc'd lower than old INFI. Just because an old SHBM or BM-E can be taken down that far, doesn't mean the new stuff can. Considering the number of gorillas buying knives these days, maybe dropping Rc a few points gives it ridiculous toughness which is more of a priority.:D
 
i would really have liked it if my MUK was more like 62rc... edge retention is kind on a skinner

On the TGLB, i think 58-60 is perfect. It hasn't gotten "dull" yet, and i've done some pretty gnarly stuff with it
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't Jerry say INFI does not go over 60? That the idea of INFI 2.0 was to go over 60? Seriously, someone correct me if not, its been a while.
 
richstag said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't Jerry say INFI does not go over 60? That the idea of INFI 2.0 was to go over 60? Seriously, someone correct me if not, its been a while.
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I think thats right. The only ones I can think of that he went over 60 on were the BAD's(boney active duty).
 
You should find the 30 degree inc angle to be plenty strong. I sharpen my fbmle at 13 degrees per side using a rod guided system made particularly for this knife.
 
shqxk said:
I really love the factory zero convex edge on my TGLB.
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How come your TGLB is factory convexed? Was is competition finished?

I got a coated TGLB that was not convexed, and then a CF one that was. Wasn't sure if the convex edge came standard on all CF blades, or if it was just done as an extra on mine because I also paid for some factory customization of the blade. Perhaps someone can let me know if their standard CF TGLBs were convexed?
 
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