anodizing titanium green?

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Hey, ive been experimenting lately with anodizing my Benchmade model 42 balisongs titanium handles, my final result has been a nice light blue color but i would really like to get a bright green. I have come to terms with the fact that i don't have the capacity to do this myself, as it wouldnt it be worth investing in a high voltage dc power supply for this one tiny customization. Anyways, does anyone here have the equipment/experience to anodize Ti to a nice green color? if anyone is interested in helping me out i will pay for shipping both ways for the bare handles, and of course pay you for your time/materials whatever you want to charge. I hope im not breaking any obscure forum rules by trying to do some outsourcing :eek:, Thank you for your time!
 
Hey, ive been experimenting lately with anodizing my Benchmade model 42 balisongs titanium handles, my final result has been a nice light blue color but i would really like to get a bright green. I have come to terms with the fact that i don't have the capacity to do this myself, as it wouldnt it be worth investing in a high voltage dc power supply for this one tiny customization. Anyways, does anyone here have the equipment/experience to anodize Ti to a nice green color? if anyone is interested in helping me out i will pay for shipping both ways for the bare handles, and of course pay you for your time/materials whatever you want to charge. I hope im not breaking any obscure forum rules by trying to do some outsourcing :eek:, Thank you for your time!

There are several guys that can help you. I have worked with 2. STR right here on BFC. He has a forum here in the maker's section. The other is Ben Hastings. You can contact him through his website, here:
http://www.phlaunt.com/hastingsmetalwork/
Ben does what he calls a storm cloud anodize that is top notch..
 
My teacher Alan Folts does some of the coolest greens on Ti that I've ever seen. I've done a lot of anodizing with him in his shop (hundreds of pieces), he's very good with Ti. I'm sure he'd do it for you if you want.

Have a look at some of his anodizing here:
www.tistix.com

He is a knife maker, but he also does those.
 
My teacher Alan Folts does some of the coolest greens on Ti that I've ever seen. I've done a lot of anodizing with him in his shop (hundreds of pieces), he's very good with Ti. I'm sure he'd do it for you if you want.

Have a look at some of his anodizing here:
www.tistix.com

He is a knife maker, but he also does those.

I almost forgot about Folts... I have a set of his chop sticks in indigo. They have the most saturated color I have ever seen come out anyone's shop. Very nice:thumbup::D
 
very good recommendations guys! I've been to that website before while doing other Ti research, he does beautiful work, never knew he was a knifemaker though. I just sent him an e-mail and cant wait to hear from him, hopefully hes up for it. Also that "stormcloud" pattern looks badass on those folder backspacers, but on an entire balisong id imagine it would look pretty crazy, maybe a little too crazy, for my tastes at least.
 
haha will do, i already sent the email and i mentioned i heard about him from one of his students but if he aks specifically ill be sure to let him know!
 
i almost had it last night then i cooked a fuse in a DC setup

im going to pony up and get a real one soon but that is not reall helpful right now

BTW what part PA you from
 
Green is not a problem the B.M 42 is C.P titanium and act's differently than the stuff "Knife Maker's " use it took me a long time to get green on 42 but i got it every time now you are welcome to P.M me if you wish
 
Yep, the BM Ti anodized differently than 6-4.
I did a bunch for EDC Knives, and they took more time than they should.
If I remember right, I had to satin finish them too, seems like they were tumbled or something...

Folts is the man.
I get the green I get thanks to him...
 
I've put some effort into achieving a good green, here are the results:

http://1drv.ms/1OsL9n8
http://1drv.ms/1OsLar9


y3m-pvY7VsJxfXbQq3j_P8R8xtB1WkSmSH3vVgaTilk0Ur1qLk8jjNtOZmojHKETEt12qeZYBENZKtODBm2qrOAdoKQXHje8LkPQFIZttv1wnElq3YVBvT3ZzVMunbzGjKRg0otPJ5DrsqK7ZP8tzNkWbLoXe7AwV8fEiXner4tNF0

y3mWmVQDRNmcI4NOsGO2MDEh8-37RwKC0uZEALwRAKwT0sgG3iO8xkjt0J20xvZW70HfNXbIIzsGRptPw6_e9nqX-Oh1qcheqCXYnXOI-1fFcEPTxgNgD9LvOKFg8bE5d2_-foqKgdIgGVaHvkpuD7ZHjylqLttBTuaPTE_5xlTM04


Lessons learned:

1. Not every titanium alloy can reach green color. I had some pieces that could only produce ugly greenish tint and some that would go no further than dirty blue no mater what else I did with them.
2. Surface must be polished (smooth polish, orange peel, etc.). Rough surfaces do not go green.
3. Thorough degreasing is absolutely necessary. A light touch with a finger ruins the part for sure.
4. Etching is necessary. Etching time must be just right. To determine proper time for your etcher, anodize a swatch in blue, dip it into the etching solution and notice the time it takes for the swatch to go back to clean silver -- that's your time. Less than that, your surface is not clean enough. More than that, you damage the polish.
5. The voltage for green is around 100V. A typical two scale and a clip set will draw 2-3 Amp of current from your power supply during anodization. If your power supply does not give enough current, you will not reach green. Unless you are absolutely sure your power supply is beefy enough, you'll need an ampere-meter to know what is going on.
6. After anodizing and drying the parts, give them a coat of light oil.
 
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Thanks for the info, but this thread is over seven years old. Look at the date of threads you pull up in a search.

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