Axe sharpening

This is interesting to me. I appreciate the links and info. i sharpen mine with stones, and with power tools. i like the polish and convex that i can get with my 2 x 72
 
A good single cut mill file, some decent leather gloves, a double sided stone, and some time.
a fair atatement. sharpening an axe is a hands on learning experience. not difficult, use the file to create the bevel edge profile. use the stone or puck or gritty sandpaper to refine the edge. go from there. you'll eventually get the hang of it. you can use a strop to really polish the edge if you so desire.
 
Does the edge last longer the finer you sharpen it? DM
Not to a noticeable degree.
What works for knives, razors & such is lost on an axe.
After a couple minutes chopping, a razor stropped axe and one thats only file & stoned are going to be equals for rest of the day.
 
Is maintaining a convex edge better in some way? Or is a V final bevel acceptable? For smaller axes and hatchets, like the Gransfors SFA and Wetterling Hunter Axe.
 
Is maintaining a convex edge better in some way? Or is a V final bevel acceptable? For smaller axes and hatchets, like the Gransfors SFA and Wetterling Hunter Axe.
holding sharpness will depend on the wood you chop. pines,fir,spruce softwoods are different than oak,hickory,maple and elm.
once you spend time sharpening an axe and use it you'll know what kind of edge you prefer for the task at hand. limbing green wood and chopping down dead trees are fish of a different color so to speak.
 
Does the edge last longer the finer you sharpen it? DM

With all edge tools a finer polish leaves less surface area for oxidation and corrosion to start on. It's a tiny advantage for an axe.

But a finer edge plays another impotant role with axes, it helps the axe to release easier. This makes each stroke a little easier and puts less stress on the haft/eye contact areas (less wrench on a stuck axe). I notice a big difference when swinging a polished convexed-edged axe.
 
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Is maintaining a convex edge better in some way? Or is a V final bevel acceptable? For smaller axes and hatchets, like the Gransfors SFA and Wetterling Hunter Axe.

See what I said above. A convexed edge releases easier and puts less stress on both you and the axe. A 'V' grind or Scandi grind can be great on carving/shaping hatchets - anytime when you're removing material from one side of a piece of wood. When chopping, bucking or felling you're better off with a convex grind.
 
It did not look like those Basque, Aizkolariak racing axes had a convex face. Perhaps used for a different type chopping. I chop and split oak. DM
 
[/Quote] I notice a big difference when swinging a polished convexed-edged axe.[/QUOTE]
Would this 'notice' apply to an axe like the racing axes, where the entire head is polished? DM
 
I think the first inch is most important - even the first 1/2" of bit will increase performance. Just polish the grind and you should be good. And it doesn't need to be mirror. A very fine stone like a hard black Arkansas stone is good enough. If you have a buffer or non-woven wheel it will help even a little more.
 
Ok, I have all the equipment and a black Arkansas. I'll do it in the manner you suggest. I use is for some limb work but mostly splitting. Thanks, DM
 
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