Belt grinder

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Natlek

Joined
Jun 9, 2015
Messages
6,182
On Monday I will pick up a finished sheet /plasma cut/ for my /for now/ two wheel grinder . .Everything else is ready and I hope I'll let it run the same day. In the future I intend to upgrade this belt grinder to be like on drawing I made . On left side large wheel on right side normal two wheel suport . I need only to change the direction of rotation and mount belt .Same tracking and tension wheel for both side . What do you think guys ?

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Doesn't look like enough contact area with the belt and drive wheel as drawn if the red loop is the belt path. I'd cover the drive wheel with rubber or friction material and run the belt path over the top of the drive wheel to get enough grab on the grinding belt to prevent it slipping. Otherwise, can't see any reason it wouldn't work well.
 
Thanks for comment . And yes , red line is belt . It s big drive wheel . . . . 7 and 1/2 inch dia. But I leave space in design on steel plate and I can go up to 8 and 1/2 Inch drive wheel with rubber cover if necessary .The drawing is not accurate as how will looks in reality .The drawing is just to see my idea .
 
Rose city, Look at the sketch again. There are two belt paths shown. One loop goes to the contact wheel and the other goes to the flat platen. It isn't one long belt going around both. He is planning on moving the belt each time he wants to change.

Natlek,
You are trying to overcomplicate a simple thing.
It would be far easier and work better if you mounted a square tube/slot on the frame and just changed the wheel and platen as needed. They mount on a square arm that fits the channel. That is the standard method. Walking around to the other side, changing the belt around, and re-adjusting the whole setup each time, and reversing the motor would be sort of silly, when you could just loosen a locking lever and change the arm in 10 seconds. You would also need two grinding catch traps - one below each side.
 
I'm sure it would work, but I have to ask the question, why reinvent the wheel? There are plenty of well proven plans already out there. The eerf/gib can be as good as any commercial grinder on the market if it's built well and has a few improvements made.

The one thing to keep in mind is that if you want to build a really good grinder, you won't save much (or anything) over buying a commercial one unless you get a screaming deal on the parts. If I just wanted another grinder I'd order one (and probably a Bader as I like that style of machine, and it's my favorite of the commercial grinders I've ran)
I opt to build mine as I can make them to as close a tolerance as I want, and set it up exactly how I like it. Once I factor in my time and materials, a Bader or Burr King would have been cheaper. But if I'll be using it 6-7 days a week, I want something I'll really like using.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Rose city, Look at the sketch again. There are two belt paths shown. One loop goes to the contact wheel and the other goes to the flat platen. It isn't one long belt going around both. He is planning on moving the belt each time he wants to change.

Natlek,
You are trying to overcomplicate a simple thing.
It would be far easier and work better if you mounted a square tube/slot on the frame and just changed the wheel and platen as needed. They mount on a square arm that fits the channel. That is the standard method. Walking around to the other side, changing the belt around, and re-adjusting the whole setup each time, and reversing the motor would be sort of silly, when you could just loosen a locking lever and change the arm in 10 seconds. You would also need two grinding catch traps - one below each side.
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Stacy , main reason why I want to make grinder this way is that I don t want to cut solid steel square bar / 5X4cm./ I have . If I cut length I need for normal 2X72 grinder , what rest is for nothing . But I will listen to you and do only one side , side with big contact wheel and two wheel belt version. Anyway I will most use two wheel setup because only that belt size is available here .2X72 grinding belt I must order from Austria or Germany ......
Here is steel square arm from my never finished 2x72 grinder .I will use this one to save another long one I have for some another project . . . Thanks for advice !
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Geoff Flato said:
I'm sure it would work, but I have to ask the question, why reinvent the wheel? There are plenty of well proven plans already out there. The eerf/gib can be as good as any commercial grinder on the market if it's built well and has a few improvements made.

The one thing to keep in mind is that if you want to build a really good grinder, you won't save much (or anything) over buying a commercial one unless you get a screaming deal on the parts. If I just wanted another grinder I'd order one (and probably a Bader as I like that style of machine, and it's my favorite of the commercial grinders I've ran)
I opt to build mine as I can make them to as close a tolerance as I want, and set it up exactly how I like it. Once I factor in my time and materials, a Bader or Burr King would have been cheaper. But if I'll be using it 6-7 days a week, I want something I'll really like using.
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Geoof , I like to make tools when I have time , especially from waste materials . I have 2x72 belt grinder ,need only to make wheels and find some three step pulley .It s made from very thick steel /12mm./ and is very solid . I have no idea why I still not finished that project .It cost me nothing , only my time :)

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Motor for this project I bought from scrap yard for 15$ .It was jammed when I buy .BUT need only two new bearings to change and now is as new one. Steel plate / about 20X10 inch and 9mm thick/ with cutting on plasma and all hole I need + bending on one side will cost me 10$ ..........All three wheel is from motorcycle .Lathe work cost me 10 $ .New bearing /6201 SKF/ for one which will be tracking wheel cost me 4 $ here ....That is all . It can be cheaper . But will cost me money VFD ............:mad:
 
Very cool design! Add in to the machine the option to grind vertical or horizontal and make adjustable work rests too!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Very cool design! Add in to the machine the option to grind vertical or horizontal and make adjustable work rests too!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
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Thanks Rhino , I'm glad you like it :thumbsup: Horizontal grind ?It s easy to make that too but when that solution is usable ? I can t find what I will grind that way ? Of course there will be adjustable work rests , simple but .....cool one ;)

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Rhinoknives1 said:
I have a grinder from Chris Williams, http://www.wilmontgrinders.com/Pages/default.aspx The option to turn Horizontal works great for rolling my handles for the index finger cut outs, Profiling and other small wheel operations and other makers have a whole host of operations they they prefer to do level.
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That s look like very solid grinder . I understand , but I don t make money from knive I made .....I spend the money :( That s why I am trying the tools I make do not cost a lot . . . I have made small wheel for that kind of work ....The one on picture with little bigger motor is from ABS brake car system ...I cant stop that even if I push hard ...Can run from 3000-7000 rpm . I have made from walnut different Dia. wheel and is easy to change from one to other Dia .Small one is weak , but that s good when I work on wood . I intend to make another one for fine work , with three 100W motor + tracking wheel ,for 1 inch belt :)

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I need a favor and I will be very grateful if somebody helps me .Can someone measure how much pressure is need to release tension on belt ? Measured on handle where you push , can be done with ordinary body weight scale ? I read that most use 30LBS gas tension spring , but force on tension arm depend where tension spring push...I have many gas tension spring in different length and power , but which one to use and where to install............ ?
Thanks!
 
It kind of depends on where you locate the gas shock. the closer the piston is to your pivot point, the stronger your gas shock must be. (think about how, on a see-saw for instance, it is easier to lift a heavy weight when the weight is near the pivot, as apposed to near the other end that you push down). If your piston is straight up and down under the tracking wheel, 30-40# should do it. On mine, I used a 90# shock, as the gas shock is close to the pivot point. (see below). grinder right.jpg
 
Kevin McGovern said:
It kind of depends on where you locate the gas shock. the closer the piston is to your pivot point, the stronger your gas shock must be. (think about how, on a see-saw for instance, it is easier to lift a heavy weight when the weight is near the pivot, as apposed to near the other end that you push down). If your piston is straight up and down under the tracking wheel, 30-40# should do it. On mine, I used a 90# shock, as the gas shock is close to the pivot point. (see below). View attachment 714532
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Thanks Kevin , that s why I ask .......... BW , one day in near future I think that I will make another one grinder using your grinder plans .I like how that came out :)
I drill hole for motor in plate , M10 thread and installed motor . Now things will go faster .I decided to make complete grinder with option for 2X72 belt with big contact wheel .Need to decide what to use for arm ...both a heavy :mad: I order steel plate little bigger to make me easy to take precise dimension where will be tracking wheel and position on tension arm . Basically , I will cut tension arm from plate .It s 9mm. thick which I think is enough.Work rest /stainless/ is almost done , need to drill only two hole and as you see on picture will be adjustable in two way ....Steel plate which will go behind belt is from very wear resistant steel /it is from long straight saw with diamond for cutting marble and granite / and will have cool cooler behind :D
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One more question and I will no more boring you :) Can I run my 2HP motor with this 5HP VFD ?

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That VFD is a 300-460V in/out type .... do you have 400 VAC in your shop? IIRC, Macedonia uses single phase, 50Hz, 230 volt two wire as the standard line voltage.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
That VFD is a 300-460V in/out type .... do you have 400 VAC in your shop? IIRC, Macedonia uses single phase, 50Hz, 230 volt two wire as the standard line voltage.
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Sorry Stacy .I avoid AC current all my live .Know nothing . All I know is that here between two phase we have 380V ? If that helps ?
I can get this Hitachi inverter for 100 euro?
 
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Sounds like you are on a 380v 3 phase distribution with 220v single phase wye drop (400v 3 phase, 230v single phase European standard). Unless you have multiple phase drop it will not work.
 
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