Buck 440

T

TheGoldenWalrus

Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
433
hope this is the right place to post this.
anyways how the heck do you get a good edge on Buck's old 440? i have a version 4 variation 1 Buck 110 that i got from a yard sale, and i cant get a edge on it to save my life. so is there anything special you do to get an edge on these things?

Thanks,
Scott
 
Not sure what stones you are using, or what condition the edge is in, but I have always found Buck knives ( older and newer )one of the easiest to get a good edge on.

This isn't meant to be rude, but have you been able to get a good edge on other knives ? The reason I ask is, it may have something to do with your technique.
 
i have gotten a hair whittling edge on all my other knives. my technique isnt the best as i always end up with a slightly uneven edge (its more to the left thank in the center) but i dont mind it. just the 110 wont take anything over half cutting half tearing paper.
 
What stone are you using. Also, mark the edge with a black marker to see if your hitting the apex during sharpening. That model has a thicker edge and depending on your sharpening angle you may just be working that. DM
 
ok, im just useing a Smiths hand held diamond home. i believe its like 320 and 720 grits or something along those lines.
 
TheGoldenWalrus said:
ok, im just useing a Smiths hand held diamond home. i believe its like 320 and 720 grits or something along those lines.
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Try the trick David mentioned with the marker. Check to see if you are removing any of the color, and where it is at. Then you will know if you are at the correct angle
 
The grit your using may not be coarse enough to remove enough metal. If metal needs removing and one is using a diamond, the X-coarse removes metal faster, working up a burr. Then on to a coarse and finer. Plus, Buck's 440C is more time consuming to sharpen than some other steels. If you have coarse wet/dry sandpaper, try that on a very flat surface and keep marking the bevel. DM
 
440C is excellent blade steel & that vintage 110 is a peach. I compare such a folder to those made today &it makes me realize that we stand on the shoulders of giants. Those who came before us.

Send it to me & I will put an edge on it and send it back to you.
 
I use the medium stone on the 40 degree angle on my Sharpmaker then the fine-shaves arm hair right off.
 
Buck used to put on what is called a semi-hollow grind on their older blades. The edges are quite thick so you should use a coarse hone to thin the edge as the others have stated. Be patient.
 
Robert Ptacel said:
Buck used to put on what is called a semi-hollow grind on their older blades. The edges are quite thick so you should use a coarse hone to thin the edge as the others have stated. Be patient.
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That's what I did with my older Bucks. I used my Lansky to put a 17 degree secondary bevel (not to a burr) on it and then put on a 20 primary/cutting bevel (to a burr).
 
I just sharpen my knives on a mousepad covered with sandpaper most times,It will make a convex edge on the blade,which seems to just keep cutting and never get dull when done right.I raise a burr on one side,flip over and do the other the same way,then finish up on a leather strop with compound.
 
Yes, I think getting a good diamond stone and spending the time would be two things that would solve the problem.

The edges of that era are simply thicker (and harder) than most.

It just takes more time than one would think, but they'll get as sharp as any other steel.

:thumbup:
 
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