Recommendation? Feeling Overwhelmed - Advice on Stones?

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VagabondExplorer

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May 7, 2023
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Hey all,

I've been hand sharpening 1095 and Buck's 420HC. But I recently purchased some new knives using these newer "super" steels and realized my old stones aren't going to cut it anymore. And I'd like something where I can get a better idea of what angle I'm sharpening at and not just an "about this angle" fully freeform setup so I can get the most out of these new steels.

I did a bunch of research and decided to get one of those Worksharp Ken Onion belt sharpening units and while all the reviews made it seem amazing, I'm not much of a fan and am hoping they let me return it. If not, I guess I learn to live with it or sell it.

But in any event, I'm looking for some advice on new stones and some kind of holder that has rests to get a start on the angle I want. I looked at other Worksharp products and the Guided Sharpening System stones with angle guides looks interesting. But am really confused about the 25 degree angle fixed into the ceramic stone and that guide for the stopping part. That doesn't make any sense to me. So explanations as to why they would do that and perhaps suggestions for a better system would be appreciated.

Not looking for one of those units with the clamps and rods, they seem far too fiddly and I just need a sharp knife and not mirror polished finishes using 15 different stones.

Thanks in advance!
-T.J.
 
Picking up a few diamond stones seems like the way to go, but doesn't help with some kind of angle guide. I'd like to try and keep a decently controlled angle on the new blades and not the whatever my hand happens to give the blade angle I've been doing for years.

If I'm going to upgrade the system, I might as well try and make the angles more accurate at the same time. No point in getting expensive new knives and then butchering the blade angle.
 
If you have been making your blades sharp for years, you are ahead of the game.


I'm not too far off of you.
I consider getting a guided system, but I like Very acute angles and I doubt they go shallow enough for me.

*skip your baby belted grinder, you are better off on stones


Look up Baryonx stones, he makes/sells a variety. The Artic Fox is pretty awesome.

I'm also happy with diamond stones from Atoma.
 
If you have ruled out guided systems, then I would just suggest practicing altering your angles on cheaper knives freehand with your existing stones. Get some diamond stones for the super steels and start using them once you gain the confidence. I would say you will find it easier than you think. You can get angle guides, but I haven't really seen anything worth getting and IMO you want to learn the skill rather than rely on a guide to set the angle for you. Others may disagree with that obviously.

The better guided systems may seem fiddly, but I think if decide to go that way, you will quickly work it out and be glad you did. The only advise I would give if you go that way is pay once cry once. There are cheaper systems that may not give you the results you want long term, and the better ones will be more versatile with angles and being able to handle larger knives etc.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
If you have been making your blades sharp for years, you are ahead of the game.


I'm not too far off of you.
I consider getting a guided system, but I like Very acute angles and I doubt they go shallow enough for me.

*skip your baby belted grinder, you are better off on stones


Look up Baryonyx stones, he makes/sells a variety. The Artic Fox is pretty awesome.

I'm also happy with diamond stones from Atoma.
Click to expand...

Oh hey--I know that guy.
 
The powered worksharp is best for reducing the angle quickly. Then you can tune it up freehand or (like I did b/c I am only adequate at freehand) get the worksharp guided rod system, which has 2 diamond stones (you want those) and one ceramic, and works pretty well for cheap on smaller blades. For kitchen knives I just made this jig/rest, you can increase the angle by putting something under the end beneath where the stone rests.IMG_20210828_213718__01.jpg
 
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If you are already free handing and have been for years just draw the angle on a piece of paper, or fold a piece of paper to that angle, set the paper next to your stone to give you a visual reminder of what that angle looks like. You can also set the knife at the correct angle by using pocket change or by placing a thumb or finger on the back of the knife so that it is the correct height from the stone. Once a new bevel angle is established there is always the visual between the edge apex and the stone.

Use the money you just saved on more knife's or stones ect.
 
The hard super steels have changed the sharpening landscape for many of us. I prefer the feel and romance of natural stones, but the quality of new natural stones is all over the place, and they are the wrong tool for super steels and even old chestnuts like D2. Diamond stones do an excellent job on whatever you happen to put on them. I've been using Atoma's, DMT's, and Ultra Sharp stones and while they feel a lot different they really perform well, leaving clean scratch patterns much quicker than any naturals or even ceramics I have used.

I like smaller blades, so my Wicked Edge is not an option if I want a 17 degree per side edge. I swallowed my pride and bought a few of those little plastic angle guides. A sharpie, patience, and checking my angle with a guide regularly as I proceed seems to be giving me control over different angles for different blades. I use the sharpie and the guide to get started, then go slowly while checking my work regularly with the sharpie and the guide.

I keep the guides very clean to minimize scratching the side of the blade, but I don't use them on other folks' knives, just my own.

The propped-up stone can work wonders if you can just hold the blade level.

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Regarding the angle issue. I was taught to use stacked coins and also tried using a plastic pyramid shaped angle finder. I recently purchased a digital angle cube and gave it a try. I am most comfortable with it. Hang in there and keep practicing free hand.
 
You can pick up a set of the the plastic wedge angle guides meant for laying on top of a bench stone, they aren't very expensive. I picked up a set of them when I started freehand sharpening just so I had a reference for which angle I was sharpening at. That will be the most simple and least expensive option. If you go that route then just pick up a couple quality diamond plates for sharpening the super steels. A good suggestion to keep it simple would be the Ultrasharp 300-1200 combination plate. That would be the only stone you'd need and Ultrasharp makes quality plates, I've been very impressed with mine.

If you really want to be angle specific, the guided systems are best, no question about it. Systems like the Edge Pro aren't that hard to set up and use, I think you'd be pleasantly surprised. If going that route you don't need to buy and use a bunch of stones, you can keep it simple and just buy 2 or 3 diamond stones that will work for all steel types. The basic diamond set from Gritomatic (3 diamond plates) is around $30 is all you would need. Personally I feel the small time spent in set up etc is well worth the added precision those systems offer. But I also understand they aren't for everyone.

If you can't return the Work Sharp I'd also strongly suggest picking up the blade grinding attachment for it. It completely transforms the machine into a MUCH better system. I own all of these systems mentioned and I use all of them. The Work Sharp with the BGA is my go to when I need to sharpen friends or family knife block sets. Can't beat the speed, and I get great results from it as well. I use my Edge Pro for most of my high end pocket knives, and freehand my Japanese kitchen knives, so there is a place for all of the different sharpening systems.
 
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I,have a DMT Diamond benchstone. One side is coarse the other is fine. Love it.
 
This is weeks old at this point, and OP is probably the foremost hand sharpener in the world by now, but I don't think I've ever sharpened trying to keep a precise angle. I go by feel, and if the knife needs more edge stability, I increase the angle a bit.

My philosophy is that the knife you attempt to sharpen is probably sharper than the one you don't.

The things I cut wouldn't care if one side is 17 degrees and the other side is 20 degrees.

Keep on keepin' on.
 
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