Recommendation? Help w/ sharpening

[Yodaspeak77]

Hi all, I'm a bit of a knife newbie. I've only seriously been into knives for about 8 months now, and I've run into an issue: I have absolutely no idea how to sharpen. I can do the cheap steels like 8Cr and the 420 series, but anything beyond that I seem to have difficulty doing. I currently use a Smith's 3 in 1 (link here: https://smithsproducts.com/CCD4). Any and all advice on how to sharpen, techniques on sharpening, and any recommendations for sharpening systems (not trying to break the bank but want a quality sharpener), plus any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[cudgee]

I have the 10 commandments of sharpening, Practice, Practice, Practice, Practice, Persistence, Persistence, Persistence, Patience, Patience, Patience. Not very sexy i know, but there are no short cuts. Before you go spending money on expensive sharpening stuff, get your technique right, you sound like you have the basics correct if you can sharpen some steels, just take that to other steels, but some of the harder steels are even a challenge for really experienced sharpeners. Just take your time, it all takes time, sorry to harp on it, but i have been sharpening for over 50 years, and there ain't no shortcut. If you want to try a sharpener, the good one are expensive, try a table type without a clamp, the clones are about $25, and help you get the feel of the stone, but you have to still control the actual knife, will improve your freehand no end. Then if you like it then you can buy the original. But each type of sharpener has it's own nuances and don't suit everyone, we are all different. But by trying the copies you are not wasting a heap of money on a sharpener that my not be for you. Good luck and remember the 10 commandments.

 

[cudgee]

Hi all, I'm a bit of a knife newbie. I've only seriously been into knives for about 8 months now, and I've run into an issue: I have absolutely no idea how to sharpen. I can do the cheap steels like 8Cr and the 420 series, but anything beyond that I seem to have difficulty doing. I currently use a Smith's 3 in 1 (link here: https://smithsproducts.com/CCD4). Any and all advice on how to sharpen, techniques on sharpening, and any recommendations for sharpening systems (not trying to break the bank but want a quality sharpener), plus any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Have a look at YouTube - Why can't you get your knives sharp. Bet i know... Michael Emler. I have no connection with him, but just thought it may help you with your sharpening, patience my friend.

 

[scottc3]

LOOK UP "USING SMITH 3-IN-1 SHARPENING SYSTEM" ON YOUTUBE. You will get 20 minutes of homework. Start with the 4 minute factory training.
Also, don't use that pull thru in the Smith kit, it will wreak your edges.
The stickies at the top will help your understanding of this skill.
What harder steels are you struggling with?

For the moment get proficient with what you already have. Try to be consistent with your technique. Use a bathroom scale if you need to get a feel for 5 to 7 pounds of pressure, and know that, for now, pushing harder will be counter productive.

The kits ceramic rods and 750 grit diamond stone are for maintenance and not resetting your edge to your liking. Your softer steels are apparently getting ground to the kits pre-set ceramic edge angle.
Does it say what the angle is for the ceramic holes?

Use a sharpie on your harder steels, the ones your struggling with, paint the edge and adjust your hold to match the harder steels factory edges. You want the sharpie to be evenly removed from top to bottom of the edge. If just the edge is getting shinny and above the shinny part is still painted, adjust your hold to remove sharpie evenly along blade.
It is still normal for some factory edges to be a different angle for each side of the blade. So focus on only one side at a time.
For now count strokes and use the same number for each side.
If sharpie is being scrubbed off evenly, you might feel a burr along the opposite side your working on. It will be to your advantage if you can see or feel any burr. Bouncing light from different angles off opposite edge your grinding, gently drawing your fingers AWAY FROM THE EDGE, FROM TOP TO SHARP BOTTOM, magnifying edge (phone camera, etc) all have merit for discerning a burr ALONG THE ENTIRE EDGE TIP TO HEEL. I am hoping you will be producing micro burrs at first with your 8CR and 420, but the harder the steel the more likely you will produce micro burrs with these ceramics.

Note 1- AWAY FROM THE EDGE, FROM TOP TO SHARP BOTTOM (this is called trailing edge, in the context of grinding the knife edge by drawing it away from the edge, instead of into the edge as normal with this system. You can draw the knife up from the bottom of the rod later on, after you master normal "leading edge").
Note 2 - The entire edge is called the bevel, and the sharpest point is called the apex.

 

[scottc3]

Just watched both factory videos, about 7 minutes. They report the ceramics and pull thru are 40 degrees inclusive or 20 degrees per side. I stopped using pull thru's after buying a set of Case butcher knives for a job over 4 decades ago. Went to a 3 way stone, a steel and band saw. Please just forget the pull thru.
Cut or buy a 20 degree wedge, or use a stack of quarters, tape, and a free angle finder app for your phone, etc., to get that diamond plate to 20 degrees. Then hold your knife perfectly horizontal and draw the knife across the diamond, leading edge, as your first step. Switch sides repeat, remembering to count strokes and stay below 5 to 7 pounds of pressure.

 

[scottc3]

For reference,
Sal reported Sharpmaker diamond rods as 400 mesh, ~ 40 micron, and the medium ceramic's at about 12 - 14 micron or 800 to 900 grit. Sharpmaker fine ceramic's are about 7-9 mics= 2000-3000 grit.
So your Smith diamond plate and ceramic's are in the hunt.
Your 750 grit diamond rod is about 25 microns using this calculator.