Hickory n steel
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- Joined
- Feb 11, 2016
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- 18,884
Great score on those WRIGHT sockets for $1, they're one of my favorite tool companies.
What make is that stud extractor?
What make is that stud extractor?
It's sterile, but, at $1, I couldn't pass it up. T-AGreat score on those WRIGHT sockets for $1, they're one of my favorite tool companies.
What make is that stud extractor?
My assortment of 3/4in includes many WRIGHT sockets and two ratchet handles (The third handle is a CRAFTSMAN.).Great score on those WRIGHT sockets for $1, they're one of my favorite tool companies.
What make is that stud extractor?
Photos of my new ARTISAN petite SC with a full size big brother:Garage sale & antique mall trip today:
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Two of the keys are for a series of padlocks that I collect. The sockets are USA made, 3/4in drive for $1 a piece. The axe is a cruiser! 2 3/4in eye weight-marked 2 lb and a half. And the haft is marked ARTISAN as well, although it's hard to read. I'm going to take it apart, clean up the head, and rehang it on the same haft in spite of its flaws. Together they tell a story. Besides, I'm never going to actually swing it. And, as a bonus, I got a whole hardware store hiding in the eye! Thanks for watching. T-A
With those worms holes in the handle I think I'd leave that axe exactly as you found it.Now I need to pick the right level of cleaning for the head. Unfortunately, the part of the haft that was buried in the eye is pretty compromised. We'll see if I'm talented enough to salvage it even if only for historical purposes. T-A
Definitely food for thought...Thanks! T-AWith those worms holes in the handle I think I'd leave that axe exactly as you found it.
Nice pieces! I read the other day that Kelly made axes for Gambles. Does anyone know if this is so.Photos of my new ARTISAN petite SC with a full size big brother:
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Now I need to pick the right level of cleaning for the head. Unfortunately, the part of the haft that was buried in the eye is pretty compromised. We'll see if I'm talented enough to salvage it even if only for historical purposes. T-A
It can be challenging to sort through who all made tools and when for hardware store chains. I'm pretty sure some years ago I matched up an Artisan single bit to a Vaughn Value Brand. That doesn't mean that True Temper didn't make axes for Gambles though. I don't have a Artisan cruiser that matches accumultors cruiser but I do have one with the oval stamp. Just out of curiosity I will see if it matches any of my True Temper cruisers, not that I have all of True Tempers cruisers but there is a chance of a match if True Temper made them.Nice pieces! I read the other day that Kelly made axes for Gambles. Does anyone know if this is so.
Thanks for the insight and sharing. I’m still looking for a cruiser to add to my collection. I’m a Kelly/TT collector. I have other pieces but they are a favorite collectible of mine. Many thanks!It can be challenging to sort through who all made tools and when for hardware store chains. I'm pretty sure some years ago I matched up an Artisan single bit to a Vaughn Value Brand. That doesn't mean that True Temper didn't make axes for Gambles though. I don't have an Artisan cruiser that matches accumultors cruiser but I do have one with the oval stamp. Just out of curiosity I will see if it matches any of my True Temper cruisers, not that I have all of True Tempers cruisers but there is a chance of a match if True Temper made them.
Wire wheel the rust off, then take a file and sharpening stone to it.What should I do to put an edge on this?
So sharpen by hand, no grinder? Will do. Thank you.Wire wheel the rust off, then take a file and sharpening stone to it.
A grinder can be used but you'll need to be very careful and keep it cool with water, it's too easy to overheat the edge.So sharpen by hand, no grinder? Will do. Thank you.
Yes, file and stone.So sharpen by hand, no grinder? Will do. Thank you.
This is great info, thank you for the step-by-step. Much appreciated.Yes, file and stone.
Keep in mind that old axes and hatchets acquire an oxidation layer which can be significantly harder than the underlying steel. At first your file may want to just skate across the surface.
Clamp the axe to the top edge of your bench with the bit just overhanging. Use a fresh sharp high quality file. Adjust your speed and pressure so that the file is biting. Work through the oxidation layer in one small area. Then work out from there lifting the oxidation with the softer steel just below. File then hone.
Yes , this is how I also do it , but it can take a long timeYes, file and stone.
Keep in mind that old axes and hatchets acquire an oxidation layer which can be significantly harder than the underlying steel. At first your file may want to just skate across the surface.
Clamp the axe to the top edge of your bench with the bit just overhanging. Use a fresh sharp high quality file. Adjust your speed and pressure so that the file is biting. Work through the oxidation layer in one small area. Then work out from there lifting the oxidation with the softer steel just below. File then hone.
Treasures from a recent day of junquing:
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I would have hung the Kelly on a curved haft, but I probably won't rehang it. The banjolele is unbranded, likely c.1930. I restrung it. I wish it was a tenor rather than a soprano. The machete is sterile, probably a Burma Regiment piece from 1944-45. It shows no signs of use or sharpening. I'm way more excited about my new treasures than my buddy Rigby is! T-A
Using what you provided, I found this:
The dog was a great score!Treasures from a recent day of junquing:
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I would have hung the Kelly on a curved haft, but I probably won't rehang it. The banjolele is unbranded, likely c.1930. I restrung it. I wish it was a tenor rather than a soprano. The machete is sterile, probably a Burma Regiment piece from 1944-45. It shows no signs of use or sharpening. I'm way more excited about my new treasures than my buddy Rigby is! T-A