Knife Photography--lights and diffusion tent

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Feb 17, 1999
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There is a very nice collapsible/portable lighting box made by Cameron and distributed by Booth Photographic. They also have a couple of nice lights-- 5000K Daylight Flourescents with reflector, diffuser and bracket. They also offer a kit with a light stand.

the main website is www.boothphoto.com with navigational buttons to a US site and "contact" for finding dealers. Scroll to the bottom and put your state or one near you into the search field to locate the nearest distributor.

First scroll the main page till you find

"Cameron Digital Imager Cool Lights & Lighting Kits"

mouse over the image of the light and click

on the new page will be information of twp different lights. One is the three bulb version and likely will be about $140 US as I believe I just paid $160 this past weekend for my unit. The single light should be about half that price.

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Prior to learning that this 3 bulb unit was available, I had been using the single bulb unit
which also includes the diffuser as seen in the kit combos

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I'd recommend using both lights and the nice part about the arrangement is you have a natural 3:1 lighting ratio.

Check here http://www.boothphoto.com/category.jsp?categoryId=49

as Booth has changed it site and by scolling you will find the lights I use.

Back to the sites information and continue to scroll to see

"Cameron Digital Photo Box"

click on the image and note that there are 2 sizes. Make sure you locate the larger size as while the small one might be ok for folders, larger fixed blades just don't work.

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The cost of this box in the US is likely to be in the $100 range as the one available this past weekend was about $120 Canadian.


Lets look at the construction of the box. This box is totally adjustable and folds down into a small space and has a carry bag. Note that there are attached but interchangeable backgrounds but unfortunately not one that is transluscent. For knives, the rear background is best if either transluscent or at least white (which is available) so the blade does not pick up the color of the background.

Because I like to have the front as seen in the photo I light from the top of the box with the light behind it and skimming the light across the diffuser. However, you can turn the box so that the opaque materials are on the bottom and you shoot thru an open hole and thus are able to lower the light and aim it thru the rear diffusion material.

By using the 3 bulb light in this way it is possible to use the single bulb to either side of the box for shadow fill or to better illuminate the darker handle material.

Certainly, users can also try to place lights to the sides to see if they get good results in that fashion.

If I recall correctly the bulbs are good for about 8-10000 hours so likely will last a lifetime for most users unless they break one. Replacement bulbs are available.

When making use of neutral "gray scale" background (recommended), the use of a 4 megapixel camera set to Auto will give excellent results.

Back to the main page of the Booth site.

I note that Booth has a new light also but have no idea of cost and I have not seen these functioning. The light is called

"Cameron Digital Imager Metal Halide 800"

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full info can be obtained by clicking on http://www.boothphoto.com/product.jsp?productId=100255


I have just finished a few images but have to put them into the computer and will add them to the post so the results from this setup can me seen.

Ok. lets examine these images and the lighting used. Keep in mind, these images are direct from the Nikon 995 a 4 mega pixel camera, using AUTO setting with nothing done in image editing software except to create the multi images and crop the canvas. No USM, color correction or exposure correction was done on any of the components. Exposure generally is 1/8 sec at f 4.

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this image is from the use of the original 26 watt Daylight Flourescent only on the lower image of the multiple. One of the 6500K 15 watt DFL bulbs I have used for a few years was used to create some shadow fill light on the upper image. This works well and is an option available. However, the light itself is $20 Can and you will need a bracket/support for the light onto a light stand.

Next is an image of the knife from both the obverse and the reverse without any fill light using the new 3 lamp unit.

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we now add the fill light from the right hand side of each image. With Damascus, this can be done without difficulty and is often the best depending upon the handle material used. The knife selected for this demonstration was specifically chosen dues to its many shapes, file work, different colors and materials used--damascus blade, sheep horn, ivory, mokume and nickle silver.

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The last image making use of the triple bulb light and the single 26 w fill light shows the middle knife to have no fill, the bottom to have fill from the right of the blade and the top knife to have fill from the handle side. On the latter, unfortunately, the ivory on the butt is washed out. Adjustments such as feathering the light could help this situation but as done shows the concept clearly regarding use of and placement of the fill light.

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Hopefully this information will be of use to makers and collectors wishing to create a simple and fairly inexpensive method of lighting the knives they sell and collect.
 
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Beautiful images and done with a small investment. Who can dispute the fact that these are so clear? Damn.

Good post. I am certain there will be others who will benefit from these.

Coop
 
Thanks Murray! Great information. I've been meaning to get myself a decent setup for quite a long time now and this, along with Coop's informative post from a while back, is a huge help.
 
Thanks for the info Murray. I'd be tempted to get one myself, but I prefer visiting with you and Phyllis and all of your knives and using your set-up instead. :p

Otherwise, it would certainly be a cost-effective option for the mechanically disinclined, such as myslef. :)

Roger
 
Hey, Roger, I'd rather you came to visit also. I like to see all the great knives you get in person and not just as images. We have lots of fun chatting and doing photos.
 
Can you show us a picture of your entire setup? I'm a bit loggy today and can't quite picture what it's looking like in my head.
 
sure Kevin, just give me a bit. I have some photos but not exactly as my setup is now so I will take a shot and post it as soon as I can.

When you see the shot, it will have the basic setup on top of my Pool table but any table or floor will work. I like it up as then I can stand instead of having to kneel or bend.

The various backgrounds that attach to the basic box flip out the backside and can be rolled up out of the way. If you want to photograph objects other than knives, then these background work well as they for a continuous scrim from the base to the back as a back ground for the object being photographed.

Jeff Cowdry of Booth Photographic plans to add to their website a tutorial on how to change the box arrangement to allow different configurations for doing a variety of different subjects.

meantime, here is a photo of my original setup that Mitch, Coop and I have discussed manytimes in the forums.

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at this time I was using the tent concept that Mitch Lum devised. I also had an old light bar from when I worked doing Wedding movies in the late '60's.

Into this bar I put 4 15w Daylight Flourescents. One DFL can be seen at the front of the tent and lying down on the right can be seen a diffsion devisce.

Next is a progression I made with a light that Coop suggested and the new light tent I'm currently using that I purchased from Henry's last Spring.

This is an image of Roger Pinnock doing some knife images at my place.

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Roger is about to place the knife to be photographed into the tent. Depending upon the light and the subject, we can move the camera via tripod to photograph whatever angle needed. Sometimes a bit of plastecine is used under the back of the knife to change its angle to the light to highlight or remove hotspots from the blade.

As soon as I can I'll photograph the current setup and post it.

Hope that this helps.
 
Wow, that's a huge box! Thanks, that gives a lot more perspective as to what we're looking at.

I've been looking at making such a setup here at the office, but I'd like something that I could use a white or light background on with white diffusion.
 
Kevin--you can use any background you like. Frankly, for most users, a white background presents insurmountable problems as they tend to underexpose the subject. Using a "neutral gray scale" background simplifies the photography.

Here is the setup as currently being used

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now a view from the rear showing the colored backgrounds rolled up out of the way so that the white rear wall is available. As mentioned, if the background material is allowed inside the box, then the rear wall and the floor of the box can have a continuous scrim.

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here is an image of the Nikon 995 and the knife inside the box ready to be photographed. Note the white rear wall and the neutral gray tone background on the base or background to the knife.

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at this point, I decided to take some images with the Nikon D50-- 1/30 @f8 so I replaced the Nikon 995 on the tripod with the D50 and the first image is straight from camera with no image editing.

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the next image has minimal adjustments to it.

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First, it was cropped a bit tighter and then Auto Color was applied. That was followed by Auto Levels but the overall appearance was not good so CTRL + Z was applied to reverse that and then Auto Contrast was applied. Next came USM and the application of my signture. the file was now simply saved under a new file name, uploaded to Fototime and is shown here.

Either image is more than acceptable but the second image has a bit more "snap" to it and the steel color is closer to what the eye actually sees.
 
Murray,

Very good information! I'm sure we will all benefit from it.

Coop I think you have a tutorial out that is similar to this .

Am I thinking correctly?

Great stuff... great stuff.
 
thanks Darrel. coop and I have been doing quite a bit of stuff with photography over the past couple years. I posted this info because for the first time a reasonably priced box and good Daylight Flourescent lights are now avaialble at a good price which now makes it easier to setup instead of creating home made tents and using the single DFL's we all were using previously that were 6500 K not 5000 K.

Hopefully also, makers and collectors will see that doing knife images for most things that they need are not too difficult to do and good photos make such a difference in the appeal of a knife and a website.

also, one does not need the fanciest of camera or need to use Photoshop. I really like the DIP 10 program from Microsoft.
 
Murray,

Clarify this, as you own it: In the website there is mention of a 5000k lighting setup and it appears to be that single one you show above with the grill. On any of the info regarding the fluorescents there is no mention of 5000k OR 6500k color temp.

Still good info. My previous thread is a DIY approach and it costs less--only IF you are inclined to work a little. It's like a kit knife.... ;)

Coop
 
Coop they are 5000K bulbs. Yup, the DIY method is fine but one still needs the lights and so the only outside expense is the box/tent and at the price of this one it is tough to beat. I have no problem with the DIY but not everyone either can or wants to do that so I just offer what now is available when in the past there was nothing.

Now of course if you want to do swords, you will have to DIY as I have seen nothing large enough for that purpose.

The worklight that you see in one of my images is a 6500K as I recall.

So often one sees images that don't do justice to knives costing much more than the setup described so hopefully this info and what you can help folks with re digital image editing will provide makers and collectors with better images of their knives.

I know lots of folks shell out $ for Photoshop or "find" a copy of it but I find the DIP 10 good. now one thing I have not found available for it is a drop shadow coming from behind the subject.

I have some photoshops but just don't like to use them as much as DIP10. I probably use auto fix more than some but DIP 10 does allow for other controls via curves etc.

I think the 2006 version of this product has 2006 in the name and can be tried for a month from MS website.

Currently, I'm trying to teach computer and DIP 10 to Phyllis so she can enjoy working with images she takes on her Pentax Sv.

MW
 
Darrel--it seems to be something like a muslin or cross between than and ripstock nylon. it has some elasticized material to hold it to the reflector. I have not tried it without the diffuser but if the light is feathered across the top and across the sides of the box, likely that would work with a bit more light for exposure too.

However, the slower shutter speed is good because of the fact that flourescent is not continuous light. Too fast a shutter speed will not provide the same results with each exposure. This can be tested by doing continuous exposure from your camera. I have see tests that someone did and put down DLF lights but he used shutter speed of almost 1/400th sec and then wondered why the results were not consistent. with slow shutter speed the DFL becomes continuous light of 5000k.

The diffusers come with the light as does the mounting device. The kit provides a light stand too. I don't know the total price with stand though.
 
What speed are you runing the shutter now Murray.
did you dial the light temp in manual in the camera to 5000k?
 
with the Nikon 995 I find the exposure to be 1/8 to 1/15 sec at about f 3.5 on AUTO. I make no adjustments re the color temp as Daylight is 5k Kelvin and that is what the bulbs produce. This the best reason for using these bulbs and these lights.

Put the box up, setup the lights as shown and put the knife down and shoot. If you see any adjustments needed, a bit of plastecine to tip the knife and you are again good to go. I'd try to keep shutter speed no higher than 1/30 sec.

Hope this helps.
 
Spark said:
I'd like something that I could use a white or light background on with white diffusion.
As Murray noted, white can trick your camera into a too-fast shutter speed.

A general rule of thumb is, "Light subjects on light backgrounds. Dark subjects on dark backgrounds."

By matching the relative light/dark of the subject and background, the metering for one will likewise not lighten or darken the other too much. Hence we see some nice shots of blactical knives shot against backgrounds of black nylon packs, black AR-15's, dark green jungle foliage, etc. On the other end of the scale, a mirror polished bowie with ivory handle would be helped by a very light colored background.

Murray, thank you for starting this thread and thanks to all who have contributed tips, setups, and info. I will be adding a link to this thread in the knife photography compilation that is linked in my sig below.
 
I have looked at the fine set of links that you have created for digital imaging of knives. I also checked out the link for the jewellry photography and actually, I do a lot of images of both jewellry and other fine art objects. All of these can be photographed identically to how one photographs knives.

The system currently being used, I have found to be the simplest yet and thankfully some of the photographic manufacturers have created items that do the job at a very reasonable price.

Over the past few years a number of folks have been adding lots of good info to the various threads of photographing knives and all the input has been great and I for one enjoy looking over the various threads that you have compiled in your link. Thanks very much for putting all the info into one consise place.

when looking at one of the links, I found this intersting site with info re lighting and diffusion boxes. this is an alternative to my current system http://www.skaeser.com/light_tent1.html
 
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