Knife Sharpening: Razor Edge Systems?

[rayban]

Perhaps it would be more to the OP's benefit to compare it with other clamped systems, other guided systems, or any other hand powered system, instead of forcing paper wheels into every thread.

......yeah...it's like they've been asked (instructed ??) to do so....

Speaking of guided systems....after a week of playing with the DMT Magna Guide, we're getting along pretty good. I especially like the idea of being able to use the Diafolds freehand, away from the guide itself.

 

[Guyon]

......yeah...it's like they've been asked (instructed ??) to do so....

Speaking of guided systems....after a week of playing with the DMT Magna Guide, we're getting along pretty good. I especially like the idea of being able to use the Diafolds freehand, away from the guide itself.

And what has this got to do with Razor Edge System????????

 

[cj65]

I do not think "Instructed" as a term, was ever used in the weekly meetings. It is more like, "requested" or "for the benefit of the sharpening public." We are just humble messengers within the knife community.

 

[PG5768]

i do not think "instructed" as a term, was ever used in the weekly meetings. It is more like, "requested" or "for the benefit of the sharpening public." we are just humble messengers within the knife community.

You are something else. LMAO!

 

[ricklee4570]

One thing that John Juranitch teaches is to grind in a relief on the blade by basically laying the blade down on a course stone and scrubbing in the relief behind the edge.

A lot of people won't do this, as this scratches the whole side of the blade (John even says that the scratches serve as a indicator when grinding the relief). This doesn't make for a pretty shiney knife! It does make for a sharp edge--which is the goal.

His system works.

Does anybody know about what the angle is when using his guides?

I have never used his smaller guide for small knives, not sure how well it works. I have used the bigger guide and it works well.

 

[cj65]

You are something else. LMAO!

I am just here to serve.

 

[cj65]

One thing that John Juranitch teaches is to grind in a relief on the blade by basically laying the blade down on a course stone and scrubbing in the relief behind the edge.

A lot of people won't do this, as this scratches the whole side of the blade (John even says that the scratches serve as a indicator when grinding the relief). This doesn't make for a pretty shiney knife! It does make for a sharp edge--which is the goal.

His system works.

Does anybody know about what the angle is when using his guides?

I have never used his smaller guide for small knives, not sure how well it works. I have used the bigger guide and it works well.

Juranitich's teachings really helped me understand blade geometry, and the micro bevel. I always love to learn new things, he layed it out well. I stopped using oil on my stones because of him. I am sure I have saved a butt chewing from the wife or two from oil stains on the table cloth. :thumbup: Becoming an edgy middle aged crazy knife nut is not easy ya know.

 

[thombrogan]

Does anybody know about what the angle is when using his guides?

It changes with the thickness of the blade (both spine and relief grind), the position of the clamp, the amount of steel still left on the clamp, and the flatness (or lack thereof) of the sharpening stone. Doesn't matter where the angle measures - only that it's consistent.

In Juranitch's book, he recommends using a 100 grit grinding wheel to quickly add a relief bevel. Sounds like the perfect sort of thing to prep a knife for paper wheel sharpening.

 

[stitchawl]

The angles of the Razor Edge clamps can be changed by adjusting the four screws. I never measured them, but would estimate the usual/similar ranges found on most clamp devices.

It was Juranitch's use of dry stones that first motivated me to get away from oil too. At that time (early-mid 70's) dry stone use was unheard of!

The small clamp really does work very well for the smaller, shorter, thinner blades found on pocket folders such as the sheepsfoot and pen blades. It holds them very securely while allowing for full access to the edge.

Stitchawl

 

[stitchawl]

I do not think "Instructed" as a term, was ever used in the weekly meetings. It is more like, "requested" or "for the benefit of the sharpening public." We are just humble messengers within the knife community.

... but what about the 'Pledge?'


Stitchawl

 

[KennyB]

One thing that John Juranitch teaches is to grind in a relief on the blade by basically laying the blade down on a course stone and scrubbing in the relief behind the edge.

A lot of people won't do this, as this scratches the whole side of the blade (John even says that the scratches serve as a indicator when grinding the relief). This doesn't make for a pretty shiney knife! It does make for a sharp edge--which is the goal.

His system works.

Does anybody know about what the angle is when using his guides?

I have never used his smaller guide for small knives, not sure how well it works. I have used the bigger guide and it works well.

If I remember correctly, didn't he say that a blade should have enough relief that there's only be a .020" thickness a quarter inch away from the edge?

Also, as thom pointed out, the angle varies on many different factors. You can use a bit of trigonometry ( really not that complicated ) to at least figure out what angle you're holding the blade though. Just use a depth gauge to measure the depth from the knife spine to the hone ( remembering to subtract blade thickness if measured from the top of the spine ) and then on a scientific calculator do asin(d/w) * 180 / pi where d = the depth and w = the width of your blade. Learned it for machining tapers on parts too small/awkward to measure with a protractor and adapted it for estimating knife edge angles.

I personally never found any use for Juranitch's theory on ditching oil. Instead I just clogged up a bunch of Arkansas stones and decided I'd go ahead and follow the conventional wisdom.

 

[cj65]

... but what about the 'Pledge?'


Stitchawl

You have to be a charter member to discuss the pledge.

However, we can discuss the pre amble...........

Hear ye Hear ye,

Loyal Order of Pulp Friction Fellows.

We gather to deburr the hardened steel.

It is a matter of sight and feel.

All hail the............

I cannot disclose the rest. :foot:

 

[willworship]

Anyone here have sharpening experience with Razor Edge Systems:
http://www.razoredgesystems.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=3&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=5

I would be interested to hear opinions of this sharpening method.

This method is how I got started sharpening (correctly). It always produced a razor edge on my blades. I have the 6" set. It's tricky with thicker blades (like .25"), but for most knives, it works really well. If you already have stones you like, I would just buy the guide separately and use it with your own stones. Their coarse stones wear quickly with the guide, which has to stay in contact with the stone at all times.

 

[Mahoney]

The "Cub" (smaller) guide puts about a 30 degree included angle on a blade about the size of a regular griptillian. I use it on my EDC once or twice a week. I can sharpen freehand, but using the guide makes for very fast and consistent results. IMO the larger guide is only useful for really wide blades like huge bowie knives or chefs knives. I don't really think that much of the hones, but I was sharpening on diamond stones long before I tried the "Razor Edge" system. Of all the items offered, the small guide and the edge tester are worth the money IMO.

 

[alsj727]

I have two clamps which I bough in the early 70's at an outdoor trade show. They worked better than anything on the market at that time even though the clamp wore away with each sharpening.The system hasn't improved since then. It worked great on most hunting knives such as Buck, Kershaw, Gerber, Boker Tree Brand, Eye Brand. My favorite knife was a Game Warden. The systems of todays era are light years ahead of the razor edge sys, like Edge Pro or Wicked Edge. The cost seems high also. But it Works

 

[KennyB]

The "Cub" (smaller) guide puts about a 30 degree included angle on a blade about the size of a regular griptillian. I use it on my EDC once or twice a week. I can sharpen freehand, but using the guide makes for very fast and consistent results. IMO the larger guide is only useful for really wide blades like huge bowie knives or chefs knives. I don't really think that much of the hones, but I was sharpening on diamond stones long before I tried the "Razor Edge" system. Of all the items offered, the small guide and the edge tester are worth the money IMO.

Yeah, the Edge Tester is a really nice tool to have. I don't necessarily think that rating an edge based on it is a good idea, but it's been invaluable to me for finding chips/dings that are too small to see under magnification, or for feeling/finding a burr. It does function fairly well as a measure of sharpness as well, but I've gotten "100" scores out of edges that I didn't feel were anything to write home about.