Most important considerations for an outdoor/survival knife

[vwbigmike]

Blade steel for sure, you don't need to baton wood necessarily. There are many ways to get wood/branches to workable sizes. Steel has everything to do with sharpness, ease of sharpening, edge retention, corrosion resistance, sparking ability, etc. I think all you guys put way too much weight on strictly batoning... although useful, I do not think it defines fire prep, shelter building, nor any other camp tasks.

I guess it depends a lot on where you are as well, but I always laugh when I see how much attention is given to batoning wood.

 

[vajd]

How about helicopter blades, it's what I want to hear if I can't get out on my own.

 

[spydercobenchmadekai]

Definitely fixed blade (try batoning with your folding knife).
I would never buy a fixed blade knife that wasn't full tang.
Thicker blade, but with an appropriate grind for the thickness. If it is to be a hard use knife it must be robust.
The handle would have to be very sturdy, I prefer scales bolted onto the tang of the knife.

As far as steels go, it doesn't have to be super high carbon, there are some really nice steels that can inhibit rust a little better.
I have an esee 6, which is a large blade knife, and I pair it with my spyderco bushcraft for hunting, etc...I find I use the bushcraft more, because it's shorter blade is a lot more user friendly with skinning, and finer work.

If you want to sell knives though, put a survivalists name on it, put the word "tactical" somewhere in the name, add a full brass knuckle style finger guard...and don't forget the seatbelt cutter! It could be made of tin and it will sell.

I've batoned with a Kershaw Thermite, RAT 1, and others. I've done some pretty big chunks of pine with that Thermite. The trick is to leave the handle hanging loose (lock not engaged) and use the blade as a splitting wedge. Moras are partial tang, and I've batoned with a standard Mora quite a bit.

But I still prefer full tang fixed blades for outdoor use...

To the OP: Brands that are highly respected on BladeForums include:

ESEE, Becker, Busse/Swamp Rat/Scrapyard, Tops, Survive! Knives GSO, Condor, and Mora on the budget end. Cold Steel, SOG, and other similar brands have a mixed following.

Brands such as Smith and Wesson, MTech, etc. are hated by most if not all.

 

[Shotgun]

Ergonomics would be it for me. Using an uncomfortable knife for extended periods of time can cause blisters, blisters burst and become wounds, wounds get infected and I don't want MRSA when I'm trying not to die. Having a knife that can chop and batton is handy, no doubt, but I carry a tiny little folding saw all the time, and a larger folding saw most of the time so that I don't really have to do that with my knife.

Absolutely THE most important feature is handle ergos. If you don't have good ergos then power cuts become impossible. Carving something beyond a pointed stick becomes a pain. Try a skeletonized neck knife for a while and see what I mean.

Blade Type (Fixed vs Folding)- Doesn't really matter. You just need to know how to work around the limitations of each.
Blade Steel- if you have a quality HT this doesn't matter either.
Blade Thickness- same as blade type. Work around what you got.
Blade Length- same as blade type
Tang Type- quality HT and a tang done right...again doesn't matter.
Handle- thick, round and a little contoured. Squared and/or thin handles should be ruled out.
Ease To Sharpen-Meh. If you do a lot of carving then maybe. However I've yet to need a sharpening on a typical camping trip with plain jane 1095. Sharpen it before you go and again when you get back. You can always get a small diamond sharpener if you have a supersteel. This is a non-issue for me.

One thing not on your list that's almost as important as handle ergos is geometry of the knife both in the edge and overall. It can make a huge difference in how easy the knife is to use.

 

[Bob W]

My "outdoor / survival" situations are primarily dayhiking and backpacking, so my primary concern is Light Weight. :thumbup:

 

[bpeezer]

I've batoned with a Kershaw Thermite, RAT 1, and others. I've done some pretty big chunks of pine with that Thermite. The trick is to leave the handle hanging loose (lock not engaged) and use the blade as a splitting wedge. Moras are partial tang, and I've batoned with a standard Mora quite a bit.

But I still prefer full tang fixed blades for outdoor use...

To the OP: Brands that are highly respected on BladeForums include:

ESEE, Becker, Busse/Swamp Rat/Scrapyard, Tops, Survive! Knives GSO, Condor, and Mora on the budget end. Cold Steel, SOG, and other similar brands have a mixed following.

Brands such as Smith and Wesson, MTech, etc. are hated by most if not all.

I think you should add Bark River to your list

 

[billygoat162]

I was pretty eager to say blade type (fixed), but after reading through the posts, I can say some good counter-arguments are made. Ergos are up there--the last thing you need in a survival situation is an injury, whether it's slipping and cutting yourself or developing blisters. Assuming ergo requirements are met, I'm still tempted to say blade type. I'm not doubting that someone can survive with just a folder (or build a shelter as Stabman has proven), but a fixed blade is still a better choice for hard use (and having the option of hard use gives you an advantage).

The only area where I think my opinion differs considerably from most is ease of sharpening--no, it's not a problem for normal use, but there is always the possibility of losing or not having your sharpener with you. If you have enough foresight to carry a diamond sharpener and don't lose it, then this isn't an issue, but I always have it in the back of my mind that someone might be stuck without a proper sharpener even if they packed one in. It's not as important to me as most of the other options listed though.

This is all relative importance, however--I have built plenty of fires without a fixed blade (without a knife at all to be honest), and I can see building a shelter with only a folder (though I still wouldn't want to baton with one, especially if it's my only survival tool). A fixed blade (or any knife for that matter) isn't always necessary for survival, but I think a solid fixed blade with good ergos are the two main things to look for. After that it's weight for me, because my backpack is heavy enough as it is.

 

[Chris Pierce]

Folks are going to have their own opinions. But what I look for in a "survival knife" is an AXE haha just Kidding (not really)

But really though, I get along fine with a good folder. I have used a bunch of fixed blades, what I look for in a fixed blade is thin stock, good steel with a good heat treat and a comfortable handle. It's a lot easier to actually cut something with a thin bladed knife. And if it's proper steel with a proper heat treat and a proper design then thin stock (1/8"-5/32") should be plenty strong.
I do prefer a fixed blade for cutting up animals though, there's less mess that way generally. I also prefer carbon steel, but that's just because I like how it ages.

 

[jimh0220]

Simple answer, left off the list: Versatility. Whatever blade you can accomplist the most tasks to keep your arse alive in the situation. A one trick pony won't get you through eveything you may encounter.

 

[Grateful]

Most important consideration: something you'll have with you.

That's my approach really, try to make do with what I carry and to choose wisely what I carry. Fixed blades are nice but I don't usually carry one due to my lifestyle. I always have a folder or two on me so they are the ones I will be depending on if a unplanned survival situation ever happened to me.

Jim

 

[G.Moll]

I feel like blade geometry and the heat treat should be high on the list.

 

[stabman]

This Stabman guy is alright. :thumbup:

I keep waiting for him to say something that ISN'T witty and original. I've been waiting a year, and I suspect I'll have to keep waiting for quite a while.

And they say his head grew three sizes that day.

Glad you made it back stabman!

It was close...

Dang... that was a good looking shelter you made... or will be... or... ?!

I think according to the Hitch-Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy it is something like "Willin on be have", or some such thing.

Yeah he is. His book looks interesting too.

It was interesting to write, so I hope people will find it interesting to read.

 

[22-rimfire]

Simple answer, left off the list: Versatility. Whatever blade you can accomplist the most tasks to keep your arse alive in the situation. A one trick pony won't get you through eveything you may encounter.

Pretty much my view. Handle egronomics are really important. You need a comfortable knife and one that you can control. For some that might mean a Kabar Becker BK-9 or a BK-16/17. The knife needs to be strong, and a design that you are comfortable with in terms of use. You're better off with a 3" bladed knife than a 9" blade if you lack control in your usage with the larger. So, it's different for many.

The knife also needs to hold an edge with use so blade steel comes into play.

How you carry the knife and where you carry it are important considerations too. Having a 9" or 12" bladed knife doesn't do you much good if you can't or won't carry it.

But most of the survival knives are all about sales. So you need to factor that into your shopping.

 

[sideways]

Absolutely THE most important feature is handle ergos. If you don't have good ergos then power cuts become impossible. Carving something beyond a pointed stick becomes a pain. Try a skeletonized neck knife for a while and see what I mean.

Blade Type (Fixed vs Folding)- Doesn't really matter. You just need to know how to work around the limitations of each.
Blade Steel- if you have a quality HT this doesn't matter either.
Blade Thickness- same as blade type. Work around what you got.
Blade Length- same as blade type
Tang Type- quality HT and a tang done right...again doesn't matter.
Handle- thick, round and a little contoured. Squared and/or thin handles should be ruled out.
Ease To Sharpen-Meh. If you do a lot of carving then maybe. However I've yet to need a sharpening on a typical camping trip with plain jane 1095. Sharpen it before you go and again when you get back. You can always get a small diamond sharpener if you have a supersteel. This is a non-issue for me.

One thing not on your list that's almost as important as handle ergos is geometry of the knife both in the edge and overall. It can make a huge difference in how easy the knife is to use.

I would rate blade geometry over handle ergos but otherwise spot on. Then there is the whole other topic of just exactly what is a "survival knife"?

Actually you could pretty much put it all under a "suitable knife for the task at hand" option. None of the choices in the poll make much sense on their own.

Best option. Buy a mora, beat the snot out of it and see what features YOU need beyond what it offers.

 

[KingKoma]

Blade shape - As much straight edge as possible, starting as close to the handle as possible, with a small belly and a clipped point, on a blade thats not too high. And flat ground or at least a lean convex, mostly for ease of sharpening.

Blade length - Around 4" but I dont care if its 3 or 5.

Handle ergos - Cant have any nonsense and nothing keeping my hand away from the edge.

Tang - Hidden.

Blade steel - Dont care, as long as its suitable for cutlery Im good.


So yeah, a flat ground Mora is all the knife I care to have for the out-of-doors.

 

[KingKoma]

It's a lot easier to actually cut something with a thin bladed knife.

Kyley Harris of cKc Knives has a pretty interesting project going on that might put this statement to the test.

[video=youtube;be9psc6Hp5Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=be9psc6Hp5Y[/video]

 

[pvicenzi]

As with any knife, the most important thing is how well does it cut.

 

[Blackie Scantling]

It doesn't matter what steel the blade is as long as it's huge with saw teeth on the spine. And you have to go shirtless or at least sleeveless with a bandanna around your head while using it.

 

[Metal Made Fox]

You ruined the poll by adding the "fixed vs folding" option. The obvious answer to this fixed blade for survival of course.

The other options are very viable though.

 

[pnsxyr]

I vote ease of sharpening. If a user can't get a working edge on it with crude materials, it could be made out of the finest materials, have the strongest tang, best grind, etc. and it would still be useless!


So I personally would rather something like 1095 over anything exotic.