S30V, your conclusions?

alanault said:
I am replacing a benchmade with the ATS34 blade because I couldn't keep an edge on it and the blade lock failed. Based on the information provided here I just ordered a Military G10 with the S30V blade. Sure appreciate the participation.
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What the....? I see no relevance to this.
 
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I base my opinion of S30V blade steel on my own personal use and the testimonies of 2 really good friends of mine who are sort of hard on knives. Both of them have told me on several occasions that they have experienced micro-chipping on their blades especially during using them in cold weather. I myself have had no so good of luck with 3 of the Spyderco S30V blades I've had.

Personally I always liked it's predecessor 440V ( S60V) better than I did S30V. I've always liked the edge holding ability and the really wicked, toothy edge you can get with 440V blade steel. Now 440V ( S60V) is a monster to sharpen>> it's the meanest steel I've ever sharpened with the possible exception of ZDP-189 but I don't worry about it because it holds an edge really well for me. I'm not saying that S30V is a bad blade steel by any means either because Spyderco and other companies have stuck by it for many reasons I'm sure. I still own some Spyders with that steel. Like my old Dodo models for instance>> I'll never part with them unless they were to make some new Dodo models with something significantly better.

But for an all around standard, everyday blade steel I truly like VG-10 Spyders much better than I do Spyderco's S30V models. Especially all of my VG-10 fixed blades they are my main everyday users for just about all my cutting chores. I'll never get rid of my Temperance 1 models >> they are so good at so many cutting jobs. I am however going to get the new Southfork model with S90V blade steel. Because what little experience I've had with it has been excellent. But I just don't have a great deal of confidence in S30V>> There are so many great Spyderco models made with it that I'm waiting till they offer some of them in a different blade steel.
 
I sharpened my factory edge stretch zdp-189, I noticed some visual chips towards the tip of the knife in doing so, I was however, able to sharpen them out, and I have not seen any chipping in the edge since. I sharpened at 15 degrees per side on the wicked edge up to 1000 grit.
 
keep in mind if I do get the szabo it will not be a hard use knife, just a occasional carry to mix it up once and a while . so what I should be asking is how will spyderco S30v handle light duty work - self defense if need be

I normally carry my Benchmade 275 adamas which is D2 . that's my hard use EDC knife
 
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John, Mine are Buck knives with S30V steel and I've used them for many cutting chores; cutting rope, meat and field dressing game, not taking any special care to miss bone. I've not noticed a problem with the blade chipping and I've been carrying and using it off and on since 2008. I sharpen it with a 15* angle. DM
 
I don't know if I would go so far as Paul Bos, who says that S30V is the greatest steel on the planet, but I can tell you that I love this steel. It is wear resistant and holds an edge very well, in my opinion. Frankly, it's my steel of choice for folders/pocket-knives. The downsides (and there are really just minor quibbles) are that it is harder to sharpen (duh, high-wear) and surprisingly corrosion prone. Don't get me wrong, it is definitely stainless and very corrosion resistant, but if you don't watch out, you will get surface rust much easier than, say, VG10, CPM154, etc.
 
thanks for the heads up. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the szabo.

I was between this or getting my 275 customized in real lightning strike CF . but I need a spyderco to complete pocket knife collection of 1 knife from every company I like
 
I've never had an issue with my Paramilitary 2. I have it at 20 inclusive, 10 per side. I'm thinking about taking the time to thin it out further as well. I'd have to do it by hand though, my lansky doesn't go any thinner. At the 17* mark it makes a 20* edge with the factors of a PM2.
It's never chipped out on me the biggest problem I've ever had is edge rolling and all you gotta do is fine a smooth stick if your out and use it like a strop and deburr and get that wire edge off and its fine after that.

I've done extremely light prying with the tip with good luck. I don't want to do that often or at all as it is a fairly hard/brittle steel and will break.

From what I've read here, it seems I've gotten lucky and got a properly heat treated blade and that makes me happy :D

As for my conclusions, S30V is a medium duty steel IF treated right. The edge could probably be great down to just a few degrees like Cliff said here as well. I cannot back that up yet though. Taking it down to that thin though would drop it to a light duty slicer only in my opinion. With a 20* edge, it fairs well with light/medium chopping, slices great and is super easy for me to sharpen as everyone of my knives is at that angle for consistency and ease of sharpening. I do all my touching up by hand and doing the same angle over and over is just easiest for me.
 
I hope I'm lucky and get one treated properly . I don't own a sharp maker like you guys . Just a old hand me down stone and a leather strop
 
Let's raise this thread from the dead once again. I just bought the Buck Impact folding knife.They are claiming their S30V steel has been hardened to Rc of 59.5 - 61. I hope that their tempering is as good, or better than their 420HC steel (58 Rc). They are even offering S30V as a clip point blade for their model 110 Folding Hunter. (This is their hand-built, custom made-to-order knife).

Any comments on Buck's S30V steel offerings?
 
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