The Mini Hatchet

[Hickory n steel]

I was out doing a little chopping with my sub zero today and I noticed that I have to come in at a fairly shallow angle in order for it to really bite into the wood, is this normal ?

 

[Hacked]

I was out doing a little chopping with my sub zero today and I noticed that I have to come in at a fairly shallow angle in order for it to really bite into the wood, is this normal ?

The image at the bottom of the diagram should give you a good indication of the angle that you should be chopping at. This is for cross grain chopping, you want to avoid coming in at 90°, I believe 45° is the general rule but I could be wrong. So it would be a more acute angle if thats what you mean. Going with the grain generally used for splitting you should notice that it bits in readily at 90°. Cross grain at 90° mine will not generally go past the bit unless it is something like a 1" limb, at the proper angle though it should bit in fairly deeply unless you are working with a well seasoned hardwood in which case much more effort is required regardless of the tool. With the Mini I find you can get a lot done if you are open to different tricks to help along the way. For example making a wooden wedge to help splitting larger wood, and using the notch and stomp method rather than trying to chop clear through a 5" dried limb.

/\ This photo sort of sums up the angle that I use to start a v using an 8oz hatchet. It's a light tool so angle and accuracy are more important than with a heavier tool in my experience. The only other advice I can give is to use your wrist like you would with a fishing pole or properly using a hammer. Not like that guy using a tack hammer for framing work, white knuckles stiff wrists and trying to power it using his shoulder and upper arm. I get the feeling you'll understand that reference. I spent a summer framing houses. I'm still more accurate with my Craftsman (probably Vaughan) framing hammer than the typical tack hammer most home owners use ;-)

 

[Hickory n steel]

The image at the bottom of the diagram should give you a good indication of the angle that you should be chopping at. This is for cross grain chopping, you want to avoid coming in at 90°, I believe 45° is the general rule but I could be wrong. So it would be a more acute angle if thats what you mean. Going with the grain generally used for splitting you should notice that it bits in readily at 90°. Cross grain at 90° mine will not generally go past the bit unless it is something like a 1" limb, at the proper angle though it should bit in fairly deeply unless you are working with a well seasoned hardwood in which case much more effort is required regardless of the tool. With the Mini I find you can get a lot done if you are open to different tricks to help along the way. For example making a wooden wedge to help splitting larger wood, and using the notch and stomp method rather than trying to chop clear through a 5" dried limb.

/\ This photo sort of sums up the angle that I use to start a v using an 8oz hatchet. It's a light tool so angle and accuracy are more important than with a heavier tool in my experience. The only other advice I can give is to use your wrist like you would with a fishing pole or properly using a hammer. Not like that guy using a tack hammer for framing work, white knuckles stiff wrists and trying to power it using his shoulder and upper arm. I get the feeling you'll understand that reference. I spent a summer framing houses. I'm still more accurate with my Craftsman (probably Vaughan) framing hammer than the typical tack hammer most home owners use ;-)

Thanks man that was informative, and it turns out that I was using about the same angle pictured. I guess with these 8ozers it helps to really get in with the grain.


While I don't like the handle I hung it on as much, I actually like my craftsman/Vaughan framer a little more than my Vaughan 999ml. Because the craftsman is a cool hammertooth with robed claws and an extra little nail puller on one claw.

 

[Square_peg]

I was out doing a little chopping with my sub zero today and I noticed that I have to come in at a fairly shallow angle in order for it to really bite into the wood, is this normal ?

I've notice this with my mini-hatchets. I think they lack the mass to penetrate at steeper angles.

 

[Hickory n steel]

I've notice this with my mini-hatchets. I think they lack the mass to penetrate at steeper angles.

Well I guess that's where people technique comes in . some people dismiss them before learning how to use them, but it's all on them if they never get to take advantage of the handiness of these wonderful little choppers:thumbup:

 

[upnorth]

Cool thread. I appreciate the small ones also.

 

[pommie]

how about this one, still need to make a handle for it though

 

[Hickory n steel]

how about this one, still need to make a handle for it though

What about it ? Obviously you did a good job restoring and sharpening it:thumbup: I wish I had an older one ( just to get a logo and some character along with a natural patina ) it seems fitting next to that Vaughan ball peen hammer.

 

[pommie]

What about it ? Obviously you did a good job restoring and sharpening it:thumbup: I wish I had an older one ( just to get a logo and some character along with a natural patina ) it seems fitting next to that Vaughan ball peen hammer.

it is not a very large hammer

 

[billy blade]

how about this one, still need to make a handle for it though

You can buy handles from Vaughan for the Newer ones, These handles may fit the old ones also. Part number is ZS-1/2 on the Vaughan web sight under handles.

http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Products/Tough-Fibre-Hickory-Handle-For-ZS-12__65101.aspx

 

[Hickory n steel]

it is not a very large hammer

Are you wondering weather or not that's a sub zero / mini hatchet ? Cause that's what it is:thumbup: if you wanted you could order the handle directly from Vaughan, but I prefer to do what I did and shape down a good fat scout hatchet handle from the hardware store.

 

[pommie]

thanks for the link but for $11 shipping i think i will make one

 

[Hacked]

I have an older Vaughan with the same stamp, doesn't happen to have red paint in the eye does it? Looks like you did a great job sharpening it up. Nice ball peen as well, I have a little one that I picked up for 25¢ at a yard sale. It's a great little hammer, might be a little larger than yours however.

 

[Hickory n steel]

I have an older Vaughan with the same stamp, doesn't happen to have red paint in the eye does it? Looks like you did a great job sharpening it up. Nice ball peen as well, I have a little one that I picked up for 25¢ at a yard sale. It's a great little hammer, might be a little larger than yours however.

25c for a vintage little ball peen damn I hate you right now , I still need to find myself a ( vintage of course, because I like patina ) 6oz'er to help with the non functional miniature Knives I forge from 16D nails.

 

[Hacked]

25c for a vintage little ball peen damn I hate you right now , I still need to find myself a ( vintage of course, because I like patina ) 6oz'er to help with the non functional miniature Knives I forge from 16D nails.

The bottom one is mine, top was one I made a handle for that belonged to a co-worker. It was made by his grandfather who was a machinist in the 1950s as a Christmas present. Interesting to say the least.

The non functional miniature knives sound interesting. They might function as flint strikers depending on the carbon content of the nails

 

[the possum]

I couldn't find a hammer small enough to work on my miniature knives, so I made one from a small grade 8 bolt.

 

[Hickory n steel]

I couldn't find a hammer small enough to work on my miniature knives, so I made one from a small grade 8 bolt.

I tried using a cap nut and bolt, but I prefer a real one. Currently I've been using a semi homemade one I had one of those cheapo metal ones that unscrews and has the screwdrivers inside. The head came off so I drilled through it and hung it on a handle I made from an old hickory drumstick ,it has a small center punch stored in the bottom of the handle. Because it's not actually tool steel I can only use it for minor tapping and enter punching.

And to hacked
I could make them as ferro rod strikers if I find some more old high carbon nails to use ( currently I'm using these gunmetal colored 16D nail that I was bought ( FYI the date stamp is wrong )

 

[the possum]

I should have been more clear; I was talking about a hammer small enough to peen rivets/pins on knives that size; not for forging the blades out. While it can be done with the hammer in your picture, I wanted something smaller and lighter. Your knives look great though. The little flint strikers are awesome.

 

[Hickory n steel]

I should have been more clear; I was talking about a hammer small enough to peen rivets/pins on knives that size; not for forging the blades out. While it can be done with the hammer in your picture, I wanted something smaller and lighter. Your knives look great though. The little flint strikers are awesome.

Thanks man !

What I need a 6oz'er for is for general straightening and stuff. That little one I have is probably about 2oz's. I currently don't have the ability to drill small enough holes so I just epoxy everything together. ( the blacksmith style ones would make great strikers though ) I usually forge the nails out into blade stock then forge them out from.there and for that I use a 14oz ball peen and a 1.5lb blacksmith hammer from the 1880's.

 

[Grimalkin]

Hey Hacked,

Can you give me more info on the tools you used to thin down a handle? And perhaps the process you used? I have 2 handles that I am about to work on that need to be thinned down, last handle I thinned down I just used a electric sanding handle held with 40 grit, it took a very long time. I assume there is a better way.

Thanks!