Recommendation? Trying to restore an old kamp king

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Dec 25, 2022
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My 80 year old friend gave me a kamp king scout knife that he found buried in his yard that probably was there about 50 years. It's obviously extremely rusted and I was wondering how I should go about restoring it. I was thinking of using a vinegar soak, or would a mineral oil soak be better? (PS: It's so rusted that the blades can't be opened)
 
Leave the vinegar alone! I don't know why it's the latest thing to soak knives in, but it discolors steel. It will also eat what is left of the nickel plating on the bolsters off.
Soak it with WD 40. Once it opens and closes properly. Clean the blades by scrubbing lightly with 0000 steel wool. You can scrub the backsprings, too.
Clean the inside of the knife with a small piece of 0000 steel wool and a stick-pushing the steel wool around.
 
Vinegar will just etch & corrode the steel more than it already is - it's the same stuff many use to 'patina' carbon steel, which does so by oxidation of the steel. The dark 'patina' created is a black oxide which, by itself, doesn't further rust the steel. But the process will also create a red iron oxide ('rust'), which corrodes and pits the steel.

You just want to loosen the existing red rust so it can be scrubbed away without creating any more rust. A soak in WD-40 will loosen the rust without causing any more corrosion. I've used it on old, very rusty knives by completely saturating the knife with WD-40, then wrapping it all in WD-40-soaked paper towels and sealing it all in a zip-loc bag for awhile (I've let them soak for 3-4 days, in fact). That'll be enough to soften and loosen up the rust so the blades can be pulled open (maybe aided by pliers). After that, more saturation with WD-40 & scrubbing to clean up the red rust.
 
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Not saying it is the best way or anything, but soaking in watered down vinegar then using baking soda and scrubbing is a common method in restoring old rusty knives and cast/carbon cookware. There are many other ways of successfully doing it as well.
 
Leave the vinegar alone! I don't know why it's the latest thing to soak knives in, but it discolors steel. It will also eat what is left of the nickel plating on the bolsters off.
Soak it with WD 40. Once it opens and closes properly. Clean the blades by scrubbing lightly with 0000 steel wool. You can scrub the backsprings, too.
Clean the inside of the knife with a small piece of 0000 steel wool and a stick-pushing the steel wool around.
will do, thanks for the tip
 
This is a circumstance I'd view in the context of what is sacrificed vs. what is gained in cleaning it up. With iron + vinegar + water + air (oxygen, specifically) -> that's the chemical combination which produces new red rust from previously clean, healthy steel. The vinegar soak works to lift old rust while corroding the healthy steel underneath it. In circumstances where it's known some steel can be given up to clean it up, such as with rusted cast iron cookware, it might make things simpler.

But in the case of an old knife that's already assumed to be heavily corroded internally and it's not known how much more good steel remains, I'd view it as safer to do what can be done to just soften the old rust a little bit, which is loosely bound to the steel, without risking giving up good steel that might still be left behind. That's what the inert WD-40 will do - it isn't capable of corroding the steel at all, but it will help to soften the existing accumulated rust so it can be removed mechanically (by scrubbing). And the good steel exposed underneath it won't be put at any further risk.

I'd be most concerned about the springs in particular - the pitting induced by rust on the springs will weaken them, making them more prone to breakage.

The knife below is one that was traded to me years ago in the 1990s - it's an old Voss Cutlery 'springer' automatic, from Germany. It was found by a co-worker of mine on his property in Texas. It had been on the ground for an unknown period of time - probably a few years at least. It was rusted pretty heavily and the internal spring for automatic opening had long been broken and the broken remnant lost. So, functionally, it was just a locking slipjoint knife. I gave it a WD-40 soak as described above and otherwise just kept scrubbing and rinsing with more WD-40 until the red rust was gone. As it turns out, the knife was in pretty good shape and still functional. The springs inside the blade well showed the most corrosion and pitting - seen in one of the pics below. But it functions perfectly well as a simple slipjoint, locking folder. The blade took a screaming-sharp, new edge as well. And the stag is classically beautiful.
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I can replace the kickspring in your Voss, if you like.
 
I can replace the kickspring in your Voss, if you like.
Thank you Bill.

I've thought a lot about that, since I've had that knife. As it is right now, autos are still illegal for carry where I live (in NM). If I were still living in Texas, I might've given that more serious consideration. I'm sort of conditioned to using slipjoints or simple locking knives anyway. I kind of like the idea I can carry this one without concern over the legality of it. It's a nice old knife with a lot of character, considering it'd once been left on the ground to rust away and then had a chance at being rescued.
 
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