Uneven Bevels On TSProf

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Kirk D.

Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
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Hello All:
I am a newbie but have been lurking in this forum for quite sometime. The knowledge on this site is ridiculous!!
I recently purchased and finally received my TSProf. Upon working out the usual kinks and learning the system I have concluded to get close to an even bevel I am having to raise one side of the bevel 1 full degree. I have an angle cube and everything seems to be lined up properly. With me being NEW to clamped systems I have been rolling with this technique with cheaper knives and the results are ok. Although, knowing that the Apex is not symetrical I have not even considered attempting my higher end knives.
I say I set it up with an angle cube but that could be misleading as I am a rookie. Am I missing something very obvious or could this be the norm of clamped systems? All knives of different sizes seem to come out the same.
Any advise on this situation would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Kirk Dodge
 
Kirk, I had the same problem. Lightly tighten the front screw on the clamp to hold the blade then tighten the back screw to even out the space in between the clamps. before sharpening you need to zero your angle cube on the knife clamp with the knife clamped in then flip it over and check it on the other side of the clamp and adjust until there fairly close. This problem seemed to go away after I clamped quite a few knifes. I now have the heavy duty springs and the same problem again. I may just go back to the regular springs. I wish TSprof would do a youtube video on exactly how to setup and adjust the clamps to avoid this. Good luck this is my one complaint on this system!!
 
Bladegunner:
Thanks so much for the advice and that sounds like it just might work!! Getting any information on the TSPROF has been quite a battle. I think it is a well built sharpener but with NO customer service or YouTube's it has been a frustrating experience. Although, with the $$$ I've got invested in this thing it's gonna work. Good to know that's the only problem you've had. I'm getting some really nice, polished bevels just uneven.
Thanks again for the info,
Kirk
 
Kirk, Be Patient and just keep after it. Mine just seemed to fix itself after sharpening maybe 30 knifes.
 
Bladegunner I have a K02 system and got it just the other day from George at S.T.A.T.E.S I have not had a chance to use mine yet as I got called into work and have been fairly tired when I get home.

Have you tried putting tape on the blade if not I would try putting 2 or 3 layers of masking tape on each side of the blade and instead of just putting the knife into the jaws and tightening the screws try putting the knife into the jaws and then squeezing the clamp's together and do not let go of them and while holding them together try tightening the 2 front screws.

Also if you are trying to sharpen a thinner knife like a Spyderco you may find that adding a few layer's of tape rather then just 1 layer may help to let the jaws match the grinds angle on the knife better.
 
Wade:
I will give the extra tape a try. Spyderco's are about all I've sharpened besides kitchen knives which are no problem. When you get your K02 set up, if you figure out any tricks getting both bevels symetrical, I would really appreciate it. If you successfully sharpen ffg Spyderco please share your experience in how you did it. I am getting crappy finishes(recurves) at the heel with 1"stones. Have had better results with 1/2" Borides in that area but the plan was to use 1" 95%of the time. I've got a bunch of 1" not so much with 1/2".
Thanks,
Kirk
 
Get some more narrow stones from Gritomatic he's got a lot of other stones on his website,also if your wanting a better finish to your edge go over to chef knives to go and look at their Shapton Glass Stones those are the best Shapton makes and will cut just about any steel you throw at them.

I would also contact Ken Schwartz he cut' stones for KME,and only cuts Shapton Pro stones and he also has Nubatama Platinum's witch I find to work really good up to the 3K witch is as high as they go the Nubatama Bamboo's go higher in grit but are softer as well and don't cut as fast.From what I understand chef knives to go get Shapton Glass stones without the tempered glass backer on them and has to buy them in very large amount's and they cut their own Shapton Glass stones,the problem with trying to cut a Shapton Glass stone with the Tempered glass backing on it is that the glass explodes and takes the stone with it and that is why they do not have the glass backer on them from chef knives to go.

Also if your wanting to do polished edge's don't waste your money on the Shapton 30K it's way to much money,talk to Ken Schwartz and get the Suehiro 10K and 20K stones,the thing with Suehiro is they make a 10K 15K and 20K but when compared to Chosera's and Shapton's the Suehiro's are under rated according to Ken and they it works out is a Suehiro when compared to the particle size's Chosera use's for their 10K really makes the Susehiro 10K a 15K and Suehiro 15 is really more like a 20K and the Suehiro 20K is more like a 26K.

I know a friend of mine who really like's my Suehiro 20K or 26K how ever you want to say it better then his Shapton 30K and they cost much less as well.
If you decide to get some Suehiro stone you only need the 10K and 20K as it won't hurt to skip the 15K.

I have a Spyderco Manix 2 with Maxamet blade coming to me once I sharpen it I will let you know what happened.

209 612 2790 this Kens phone number he is a great guy and well priced stones and CBN and Diamond Emulsions Ken has never treated me wrong or anyone else I have ever steered his way and he treat's in the way he'd rather sell you a cheaper stone that will work for you then sell you something that does not.Also I have purchased Suehiro Shapton Pro's and Nubatama Platinum's and Bamboo from Ken for my KME system,also the Suehiro stones are so hard there is no way you are ever going to wear them out unless you sharpen 25 knives a day for the rest of your life.

https://www.gritomatic.com/collections/edge-pro-stones

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/shprostforep.html
 
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I've got Shapton Glass 500, 1k, 2k, 4k and 8k in 1" stones. The stones are not the problem, the TSPROF is. The machine will sharpen large kitchen knives perfectly. I sharpened a 8" knife and the K02 stayed within .15 degrees on both sides through the entire process using the double clamps. Conversely, a Spyderco PM 2 in the single clamp, the K02 is all over the place as far as keeping a constant bevel. Flip the knife and it is typically ~1 degree off. I can't figure the thing out.
I spent $$$$$ on 1" stones and didn't buy this huge sharpener to use 1/2" stones. BTW the CBN, CS-HD stones cut remarkably well IMO. I have a set in 1/2" and they get it done leaving a very smooth finish. Have not used them a lot but no signs of wear thus far. I like them much more than the Venev diamonds.
If I can't see some light through the tunnel with this K02, it may be headed back to Russia. I've jacked up two folders so far and that is two too many.
I am looking forward to your experience with the K02 in hopes that you like it and possibly help me to where I'm at least not scared to leave my folders in the same room with the thing.
Thanks,
Kirk
 
It sounds like the blade is moving in the clamps as you sharpen. Not that I have one but it sounds like you need to make the clamp face parallel with the blade face for proper support.
 
Diemaker said:
It sounds like the blade is moving in the clamps as you sharpen. Not that I have one but it sounds like you need to make the clamp face parallel with the blade face for proper support.
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No that is not the problem, I believe the problem lies in the spring steel I am not convinced it is spring steel. It seems the clamps need to be tightened quite a few times before they even out. I had mine working perfectly and then put the heavy duty springs on the single clamp and now have the same problem again. If you zero a angle cube out on one side of the clamp and flip it over it can read up to 1.6 degrees off from the other side. I seriously think this issue needs to be addressed by the manufacturer. I had to have a new blade installed in a ZT that got jacked up. I wish some other owners would report if they had this problem or not. It may be isolated in a few units anybody else care to comment?
 
Bladegunner said:
No that is not the problem, I believe the problem lies in the spring steel I am not convinced it is spring steel. It seems the clamps need to be tightened quite a few times before they even out. I had mine working perfectly and then put the heavy duty springs on the single clamp and now have the same problem again. If you zero a angle cube out on one side of the clamp and flip it over it can read up to 1.6 degrees off from the other side. I seriousl }y think this issue needs to be addressed by the manufacturer. I had to have a new blade installed in a ZT that got jacked up. I wish some other owners would report if they had this problem or not. It may be isolated in a few units anybody else care to comment?
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I just reprofiled a Mannix 2 LW in Maxamet using a K02. First, I used blue painter's tape to prevent scratching the blade. I put one of the double clamps on to the flat of the ricasso. Then, I tightened the other clamp near the point, making sure that I spread the back part of the clamp with the back screw while tightening the Torx screw at the front near the blade. I used a digital angle gage on the reference block of the abrasive holder and found that I had 15.0 degrees on one side and 14.8/.9 on the other side. I used the double sided, rough Venex diamond stone to rapidly remove metal being careful to remove equal amounts on each side by roughly counting the number of strokes. When I started getting a burr on each side, I then progressed through the SiC stones 120, 220 and finished at 400 for the toothy edge I wanted. The bevel was exactly the same on both sides. [Man, I love that 68 RC hardness of the Maxamet when it is super sharp. :)]
George
 
Bladegunner said:
... If you zero a angle cube out on one side of the clamp and flip it over it can read up to 1.6 degrees off from the other side. I seriously think this issue needs to be addressed by the manufacturer. I had to have a new blade installed in a ZT that got jacked up. ...
Click to expand...

You had a blade replaced because of 1.6˚ difference?... or am I misunderstanding this?
 
I have also gone with the double clamps with better results on folders. Still don't trust the K02, or my inability to set the thing up correctly, but I am making progress.
I have to agree with Bladegunner on this one. There is no reason for a $$$$ knife sharpener to be this contrary. The Russian needs to address the issue with the single clamp and for God's sake, get some information (YouTube's) addressing the issues with setting the thing up properly.
CBW: If Bladegunner is referring to "jacked up" as I have experienced, there was a chunk of blade grounded out just in front of the ricosso/plunge grind. Made sure to stay off the plunge grind/ricosso. Can't figure out how this happened but both blades need to be replaced.
 
Kirk.D why not try getting an Ontario Rat to try practicing on as they are not much money,I think another problem might be with some knive like Spyderco they do not always have much of a flat area to clamp the blade at the top and that's why I try to choose blades that have flat spot's on the spine that are larger.

I have a KME and had the Gatco and Lansky and they really suck if your asking me,the KME I like and with it the clamping is not to much of a problem I just never cared for how there is no spot to put the angle cube on the stone holder and have it stay there witch I can adjust the angle with angle cube all by myself it's just a pain plus I like the idea of longer stones as well and the K02 seem's easier to adjust.

With clamping problem on the K02 the single clamp for full face grind like a Spyderco would be the poorest choice because if the blade is thicker on the spine closer to the heel and then get thinner towards the tip a wide clamp is not going to hold very well,I think George has the right idea about using the double clamp's.

With the single clamp it maybe just to wide to clamp the whole width of the edge evenly if the taper is to great,if you really want to use the single clamp on pocket knives more try getting a bicycle inner tuber and wrapping that over the blade.

Also always watch for the thumb studs I know my ZT-0566's need me to clamp the blade with more distance from the heel to get a better angle so as not to hit the thumb studs,also it will not matter with any system like the KME K02 or any guided system care must be taken not to go past the edge of the heel and if I do i's only .5mm just enough to ensure I'm getting the whole edge,now mind you on a Rick Hinderer XM-18 with Bowie blade you have ton's of room to overhang the stone at the heel.

It maybe a 1 to 2 weeks before I start posting any result's as I just ordered from Ken Schwartz a 150 320 600 1K 3K Nubatama Platinum's plus some Shapton Pro stone's I got a 5K and 8K and a Suehiro 10 and 20K and each are under rated by 5K by Suehiro and don't ask me they just under rate those stones.I also have Shapton Glass 6K and 8K from another place,plus I just ordered 4CBN stones from Gritomatic in 150 280 600 and 1200,plus I got the Venev diamond stones for doing knives I want to cut threw fast like kitchen knives that I do for people that like a toothy edge and in those I got a 150 240 400 1200 and a 2000 and they should be shipping next week as Konstantine did not have everything I wanted but is getting it.
 
Kirk D. said:
CBW: If Bladegunner is referring to "jacked up" as I have experienced, there was a chunk of blade grounded out just in front of the ricosso/plunge grind. Made sure to stay off the plunge grind/ricosso. Can't figure out how this happened but both blades need to be replaced.
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That can happen even if the system is 100% accurate. If the primary grind has a distal taper and you reset the edge to a lower angle, it can dig into the primary just above the plunge line. The edges of the choil/sharpening notch will also tend to be ground.

This is a drawback to guided systems or very accurate freehand - greater accuracy reveals any flaws, warps or other issues with the primary grind. Although freehand is much more capable of dealing with the plunge line issue.

This is very common on thicker bladed tactical folders, the fix is to regrind the primary or do not grind more than a few degrees more acute than the factory edge. Or live with it and appreciate the better performance.
 
cbwx34 said:
You had a blade replaced because of 1.6˚ difference?... or am I misunderstanding this?
Click to expand...

Yes, when it is sharpened at 15 degrees 1.5 difference in that big of a bevel is very noticeable
 

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Bladegunner said:
Yes, when it is sharpened at 15 degrees 1.5 difference in that big of a bevel is very noticeable
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Ah. Well, first off... Yikes! :eek:

Was that all done on the TS Prof?

It looks to me, (and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong), like an awful lot more going on there than a 1.5˚ angle difference. I see multiple bevels, overground areas, improper tracking around the belly, etc.

But yeah... probably a blade that needed replacing. ;)
 
Yes after the blade was replaced I was grinding different bevels at shallower angles higher angles and just practicing on trying to set the blade up right. I also tried to go to a lower angle than 15 degrees. I have gotten great results once my clamping got consistent with nice shiny even bevels. Not sure why I can clamp evenly now versus before.
 
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