What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

iS3fHmf.jpeg

EfloAoG.jpeg

9qxTBFa.jpeg

jhYemiZ.jpeg


YCzh6go.jpeg
 
navman said:
Josh, do those break down similar to EDM/Die Maker stones? In other words, will it conform to a hollow grind?

REK Knives REK Knives
Click to expand...

I don’t know about the HD stones REK Knives REK Knives showed but the CS-M I use do conform to hollow grinds. Would also like to hear about the HD stones.


REK Knives said:
That's awesome! I use boride's cs-hd stones which go up to 1200 grit and they work fantastic for even steels like cruwear and magnacut. If you really wanna speed it up get and air profiler (they sell on Amazon for pretty cheap, I got mine from Boride though)
View attachment 2536030

I'm trying some 9 micron resin diamond stones from jende soon... Tom custom cut these pieces for me to work with my air profiler. If they work I could get the grits down to whatever (1 micron or so)

View attachment 2536041
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice on the air profiler.

I went down a rabbit hole. I googled the wrong name on those Jende stones and found a company that can make me a diamond coated wheel all the way down to 0.5micron 😬
 
Seedy Lot said:
A knife friend bought me some 1V to try so came up with a new pattern to best use the steel. By far two of my favorite knives I have made.

Click to expand...

That is a really nice balance point indeed, something I've always felt that a lot of makers overlook. Clever stuff!
 
navman said:
Josh, do those break down similar to EDM/Die Maker stones? In other words, will it conform to a hollow grind?

REK Knives REK Knives
Click to expand...
Yes they will... They are fairly soft and break down constantly to expose fresh abrasive. I would shape the tips real quick on a diamond plate though to get me started.
 
No real work today - just organizing. I do mostly woodworking, but also make knives from finished blade blanks that I buy from suppliers. I accumulated several sets of scales. Another set ordered. Another 2 or 3 blade blanks ordered. I’ve lost count but I think I have about 6 knives and 8 sheaths to make.IMG_2103.jpeg
 
Pouring down rain today.
Got a glue jig assembled that I have been trying to find the time to finishing. It is made from 1.10" OD PVC tubes (3/4" PVC) filled with lead shot. Rubber chair leg pads make for a non-slip grip on a point or butt. It will allow quick placement of the knife with a pound or so of pressure. It fits any knife from 1" to 12". Wood is cherry and wenge.
Started hand sanding (togi) on a big batch of blades ranging from minis to a couple O-tanto/shoto-wakizashi. Got them all to 220 grit so far.
The bench (togi-dai) is a converted weight bench. It folds up flat when not in use or taking with me somewhere. You sit straddle on the nice, padded seat. The seat is waterproof, so all the water dripping is no problem. I have several sanding arms for it. One is a double T-track with a variety of clamps. It is great for most any full-size blade to a sword. The other one shown is for smaller and narrow knives. I use Kant-twist clamps and it holds the blades tight. I have one for sideways work and one that holds togi stones. I didn't take a shot of the whole bench. I'll take one tomorrow.
I'll post some shots of the blades when all are sanded and ones of them finished. I am shooting on having all tese done by the 4th when I leave for the Harrisonburg show.
glue jig 1.jpgglue jig.jpgglue jig 2.jpgtogi 1.jpgtogi 2.jpgtogi 3.jpgtogi 4.jpgtogi.jpg
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Pouring down rain today.
Got a glue jig assembled that I have been trying to find the time to finishing. It is made from 1.10" OD PVC tubes (3/4" PVC) filled with lead shot. Rubber chair leg pads make for a non-slip grip on a point or butt. It will allow quick placement of the knife with a pound or so of pressure. It fits any knife from 1" to 12". Wood is cherry and wenge.
Started hand sanding (togi) on a big batch of blades ranging from minis to a couple O-tanto/shoto-wakizashi. Got them all to 220 grit so far.
The bench (togi-dai) is a converted weight bench. It folds up flat when not in use or taking with me somewhere. You sit straddle on the nice, padded seat. The seat is waterproof, so all the water dripping is no problem. I have several sanding arms for it. One is a double T-track with a variety of clamps. It is great for most any full-size blade to a sword. The other one shown is for smaller and narrow knives. I use Kant-twist clamps and it holds the blades tight. I have one for sideways work and one that holds togi stones. I didn't take a shot of the whole bench. I'll take one tomorrow.
I'll post some shots of the blades when all are sanded and ones of them finished. I am shooting on having all tese done by the 4th when I leave for the Harrisonburg show.
View attachment 2538418View attachment 2538419View attachment 2538420View attachment 2538421View attachment 2538422View attachment 2538423View attachment 2538424View attachment 2538425
Click to expand...
That's a very interesting glue jig. I haven't seen anything like it before. I might try something similar.
 
Spent an hour and a half last night on the guard for my first hidden tang. My appreciation for modified files went up exponentially, as did my respect for makers who get incredible no-gap guard fit-ups. I’ve heard that JB Weld works for fixing fit-up issues, so hopefully that will help to remedy the gapping.
4sXMInb.jpeg

GTsZvYa.jpg
 
Jak Epp said:
Spent an hour and a half last night on the guard for my first hidden tang. My appreciation for modified files went up exponentially, as did my respect for makers who get incredible no-gap guard fit-ups. I’ve heard that JB Weld works for fixing fit-up issues, so hopefully that will help to remedy the gapping.
4sXMInb.jpeg

GTsZvYa.jpg
Click to expand...
Not saying you *have* to do this, but you could still totally make the fit tighter by taking a center punch, grinding the tip into a smooth ball, and then pounding that onto the front of the guard, all the way around the slot. It will move the metal slightly, eventually closing the gap. Then you sand/grind the front to get rid of the punch marks, which may open up the gaps again, but hopefully less than before... And rinse and repeat. It works well, especially in brass this should be fine. Just a thought. blade looks nice 👍
 
pafka said:
Not saying you *have* to do this, but you could still totally make the fit tighter by taking a center punch, grinding the tip into a smooth ball, and then pounding that onto the front of the guard, all the way around the slot. It will move the metal slightly, eventually closing the gap. Then you sand/grind the front to get rid of the punch marks, which may open up the gaps again, but hopefully less than before... And rinse and repeat. It works well, especially in brass this should be fine. Just a thought. blade looks nice 👍
Click to expand...
Thank you! I’ll have to give that a try.
 
Jak Epp said:
Spent an hour and a half last night on the guard for my first hidden tang. My appreciation for modified files went up exponentially, as did my respect for makers who get incredible no-gap guard fit-ups. I’ve heard that JB Weld works for fixing fit-up issues, so hopefully that will help to remedy the gapping.
4sXMInb.jpeg

GTsZvYa.jpg
Click to expand...
You can pein the heck out of the whole top of the plate, giving it a textured finish but at the same time closing up the gap a bit so you can re-fit. Polish the pein prior to hammering for a better finish.

Another thought is a seppa made from thin material like copper sheet. But, then, you'd have to solder.
 
fitzo said:
You can pein the heck out of the whole top of the plate, giving it a textured finish but at the same time closing up the gap a bit so you can re-fit. Polish the pein prior to hammering for a better finish.

Another thought is a seppa made from thin material like copper sheet. But, then, you'd have to solder.
Click to expand...
I like the idea of giving it some texture. Thanks!
 
all done with the machine! These are sanded to 320 grit finish, which some will stay at while others will get a finer finish.
I'll be going over each handle by hand, ensuring symmetry and getting rid of the little imperfections I can't get at otherwise.
getting pretty damn close to having these wrapped up, so I can get on top of bending some leather very soon!
mAwYHuP.jpg
 
Lorien said:
all done with the machine! These are sanded to 320 grit finish, which some will stay at while others will get a finer finish.
I'll be going over each handle by hand, ensuring symmetry and getting rid of the little imperfections I can't get at otherwise.
getting pretty damn close to having these wrapped up, so I can get on top of bending some leather very soon!
mAwYHuP.jpg
Click to expand...
They all look great, but the black with red accents looks really sharp!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top