Über-tight Kershaw Leek

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oldmanron

Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Messages
195
Hi Guys,

Just a quick question ...

A few years ago I handled my first Kershaw Leek and was so impressed with it that I immediately decided to treat myself. A year later I spotted a gorgeous Rainbow Leek and immediately bought it for my daughter's 30th birthday, enclosing it (for purse duty) in the perfectly sized little leather slipcase that comes with the Fallkniven DC 4 sharpening stone.

And then I lost my own Leek. Several months ago, the goofs at the Canadian Border Services Agency (the dreaded CBSA) decided to stop the importation of AO knives, although the knives are completely legal in Canada, and always have been.

Some stores still have some in stock, and I managed to track one down (W&W in Vancouver) and ordered a replacement while there was still time.

The knife (the basic stonewashed stainless steel handle and blade) arrived promptly and I was as pleased as could be. But ... on this one (compared to my two earlier purchases) the tolerances on the frame-lock are so tight that it barely barely engages when the blade is flipped open ... an overlap of two human beard-hairs. Two or three pounds pressure will defeat the lock-up.

In some ways it's almost a safety measure. I have strong hands and in a few seconds can force the overlap to about the half-way point. If I manage to push it all the way to full-overlap, the knife cannot be closed without using some strong little pry-thingy like a key or a dime.

My question ... are they all this tight now? I am aware that a lot of primo stuff is machined to super-tight tolerances that will subsequently "wear-in" over time until they are at "absolute perfection". But knowing the quality of the Kershaw steel, I doubt I will live long enough to see my Leek functioning perfectly.

It's not a big deal, because I am aware of the situation and act accordingly. For minor fast everyday cutting I use it as if it had no locking feature at all. For something a bit more challenging I'll take a couple seconds and use both hands to push the lock to 50% contact, so I can easily close it afterwards. I live on the eastern slope of the Rockies in SW Alberta, and if I should confront a Grizzly in the back-country I will take a bit longer to jam that lock all the way to the full 100% contact/overlap ... accepting the fact that I will need a small strong pry-object to close the knife after I have dispatched the bear.

Is anybody else's Leek like mine? I realize that they can't all be 100% identical.
 
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Sounds like the pivot screw is too tight, try loosening it up a tad bit and see if that helps. Too much and the blade will become off center.
 
What you describe sounds like a bad lock bar. Although you can force it over for safe lock up, there might come a time when you forget...or even worse, someone else uses your knife and doesn’t know.

It’s important that AO knives lock up soundly from the assist spring only. Anything less is unsafe.

Is there any chance you could exchange it for a different Leek? Is the Kershaw Dividend an option for you?
 
Hackenslash said:
What you describe sounds like a bad lock bar. Although you can force it over for safe lock up, there might come a time when you forget...or even worse, someone else uses your knife and doesn’t know.

It’s important that AO knives lock up soundly from the assist spring only. Anything less is unsafe.

Is there any chance you could exchange it for a different Leek? Is the Kershaw Dividend an option for you?
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Hi Hackenslash,

Thanks for the response.

I doubt if I can exchange it. There are no more coming into Canada across the border, and the dealer would be in the unenviable position of "eating the loss" or re-selling a flawed product into an eager market. And if I maybe send it to Kershaw for warranty, Sergeant Dudley Doright-Renfrew of the CBSA will nab it for himself/herself on the return trip.

I don't know about the Dividend. I replaced the Leek with a Leek for a reason ... it's a classic.

No, I won't forget about the flaw ... I think all of us have imagined (and cringed at) the gory outcome of a lock failure on a razor-sharp folder. And nobody else will ever use it ... I'll mention that issue in the codicil to my newly-updated "Will".
 
oldmanron said:
Hi Hackenslash,

Thanks for the response.

I doubt if I can exchange it. There are no more coming into Canada across the border, and the dealer would be in the unenviable position of "eating the loss" or re-selling a flawed product into an eager market. And if I maybe send it to Kershaw for warranty, Sergeant Dudley Doright-Renfrew of the CBSA will nab it for himself/herself on the return trip.

I don't know about the Dividend. I replaced the Leek with a Leek for a reason ... it's a classic.

No, I won't forget about the flaw ... I think all of us have imagined (and cringed at) the gory outcome of a lock failure on a razor-sharp folder. And nobody else will ever use it ... I'll mention that issue in the codicil to my newly-updated "Will".
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The Dividend and Link are basically on the same level as the Leek at this point. The dividend is similar enough to the leek that you'd probably love it. Small, slim, metal handled.
 
Sounds like the likely solution is just maintenance and possibly bending the lock for a little more pressure. If you need help on how to do that, there are tons of videos on YouTube of how to take a Leek apart. First thing I'd try is adjusting the pivot, making it a tiny bit more loose, then if that doesn't work take it apart and clean and adjust as needed.
 
It could just be a CANADIAN Leek model based on all the new knife rules that are now in effect in the northern climates.

 
dkb45 said:
Sounds like the likely solution is just maintenance and possibly bending the lock for a little more pressure. If you need help on how to do that, there are tons of videos on YouTube of how to take a Leek apart. First thing I'd try is adjusting the pivot, making it a tiny bit more loose, then if that doesn't work take it apart and clean and adjust as needed.
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Hi DKB 45 & Ajack 60,

Thanks. I don't think that my technical skills are "up" to disassembling (and, probably harder) re-assembling the knife. Plus, I'm not a hobbyist and don't even have the specialized screwdrivers. Ironically enough, several years ago I gave my close friend in Manitoba a Benchmade Mel Pardue ... and he subsequently went out and bought the Benchmade tool-set. He's good at that stuff ... maybe if he visits this summer ...


But in the meantime, maybe I'll buy the right tool and try your suggestion of loosening the pivot a bit. The knife is brand new, so I don't think it's necessary to dismantle it for cleaning.


Thanks again.
 
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oldmanron said:
Hi DKB 45 & Ajack 60,

Thanks. I don't think that my technical skills are "up" to disassembling (and, probably harder) re-assaembling the knife. Plus, I'm not a hobbyist and don't even have the specialized screwdrivers. Ironically enough, several years ago I gave my close friend in Manitoba a Benchmade Mel Pardue ... and he subsequently went out and bought the Benchmade tool-set. He's good at that stuff ... maybe if he visits this summer ...


But in the meantime, maybe I'll buy the right tool and try your suggestion of loosening the pivot a bit. The knife is brand new, so I don't think it's necessary to dismantle it for cleaning.


Thanks again.
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You don’t need that special a screwdriver to adjust the pivot. It is just a t8 torx bit. You can buy those at any home depot/lowes/rona. Then you just loosen the pivot screw a tiny little bit. They probably tightened it down to get it across the border in the first place.

Also if the knife has been defective W&W should replace it for you. Any decent knife seller will take back a defective knife. If they din’t have a replacement tell them you want your money back. I’ll let you know another store in Canada you can get a Leek from.
 
Lapedog said:
You don’t need that special a screwdriver to adjust the pivot. It is just a t8 torx bit. You can buy those at any home depot/lowes/rona. Then you just loosen the pivot screw a tiny little bit. They probably tightened it down to get it across the border in the first place.

Also if the knife has been defective W&W should replace it for you. Any decent knife seller will take back a defective knife. If they din’t have a replacement tell them you want your money back. I’ll let you know another store in Canada you can get a Leek from.
Click to expand...

We have a couple of small hardware stores in town ... I'll go see if they have what you suggest. I'm a cheap bugger, however, and am less than thrilled about spending $15 for a tool which I will probably only use once in my life ... without any guarantee of success. :)
 
oldmanron said:
We have a couple of small hardware stores in town ... I'll go see if they have what you suggest. I'm a cheap bugger, however, and am less than thrilled about spending $15 for a tool which I will probably only use once in my life ... without any guarantee of success. :)
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Great suggestion above by hhmoore.
 
Actually, I just got back from the local hardware store where I'd purchased a few Kershaw Speedsafe knives over the last few years ... my first Leek (now lost) and a Whirlwind and a Whirlwind Blackout. They had a few Torx screwdrivers but not the right size, so I enquired at the customer service desk and the owner's son just beamed and went to his desk and came back with his Kershaw toolkit ... really! We dinked around for a few minutes and then his Dad joined us (and showed me his Speedsafe) and we experimented a bit more. Bottom line ... no combination of tension adjustments on the pivot screw and the spacer screws made any difference.

So it's a machining issue. I can maybe return it to W&W and try for another, or disassemble it (I just watched four YouTube videos) and try some amateur grinding/filing, or just live with the knife's flaw. Maybe I'll enquire at the knife store in Vancouver ...

More info to come, as it happens ... :)
 
oldmanron said:
We have a couple of small hardware stores in town ... I'll go see if they have what you suggest. I'm a cheap bugger, however, and am less than thrilled about spending $15 for a tool which I will probably only use once in my life ... without any guarantee of success. :)
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Before disassembly you might try to do a quick cleaning. Take some prep pads with alcohol and wipe out the pivot area the best you can. Use some Qitips with IPA and get in and clean the inside. Make sure you get the face of the lock bar and the tang of the blade where the bar locks up. Then use a sharpie or pencil and rub down the face of the lock bar. Use some simple mineral oil (not WD40) and apply a few drops to the pivot area. See if that helps your action and lock up before you strip down a knife you're not familiar with.
 
Hackenslash said:
Before disassembly you might try to do a quick cleaning. Take some prep pads with alcohol and wipe out the pivot area the best you can. Use some Qitips with IPA and get in and clean the inside. Make sure you get the face of the lock bar and the tang of the blade where the bar locks up. Then use a sharpie or pencil and rub down the face of the lock bar. Use some simple mineral oil (not WD40) and apply a few drops to the pivot area. See if that helps your action and lock up before you strip down a knife you're not familiar with.
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I had to think about the IPA for a minute, wondering why you suggested wiping it down with beer before I realized you meant isopropyl alcohol.

I know with some speed safe knives I've had in the past, action was pretty mediocre out of the box, but a quick clean and lube with something much better than the factory used make most of them kick like an auto. From there you can adjust the pivot tension to slow it down a little.
 
oldmanron said:
Actually, I just got back from the local hardware store where I'd purchased a few Kershaw Speedsafe knives over the last few years ... my first Leek (now lost) and a Whirlwind and a Whirlwind Blackout. They had a few Torx screwdrivers but not the right size, so I enquired at the customer service desk and the owner's son just beamed and went to his desk and came back with his Kershaw toolkit ... really! We dinked around for a few minutes and then his Dad joined us (and showed me his Speedsafe) and we experimented a bit more. Bottom line ... no combination of tension adjustments on the pivot screw and the spacer screws made any difference.

So it's a machining issue. I can maybe return it to W&W and try for another, or disassemble it (I just watched four YouTube videos) and try some amateur grinding/filing, or just live with the knife's flaw. Maybe I'll enquire at the knife store in Vancouver ...

More info to come, as it happens ... :)
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear you were unsuccessful. If you have the ability, and desire, a complete disassembly and a little tweaking with a small stone or file may be the solution to the problem. If you have another Leek you might try swapping out the parts between the two knives and see if you can locate exactly what the problem is with your rainbow Leek. I bought one as a gift for a relative and it was a hit. Fortunately it didn't have an issues with the mechanics.
 
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