“Super steel” and sharpening systems question

Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Messages
1,016
I have a sharp maker with the standard stones and I have a worksharp guided system with diamond plates. It is NOT the motorized worksharp, it’s the one with 20 and 17 guided ramps. My question is are either one of these considered “decent” and will they work for the super steels? I have m4, 20cv, rex45, xhp, I forget what else. I have so many knives that I rotate through I haven’t really needed to reprofile any of them yet.

How would mine work if I need to reprofile? If not we’ll, what would you recommend?
 
It works.

They also make CBN/Diamond Rods for the sharpmaker


I have a sharp maker with the standard stones and I have a worksharp guided system with diamond plates. It is NOT the motorized worksharp, it’s the one with 20 and 17 guided ramps. My question is are either one of these considered “decent” and will they work for the super steels? I have m4, 20cv, rex45, xhp, I forget what else. I have so many knives that I rotate through I haven’t really needed to reprofile any of them yet.

How would mine work if I need to reprofile? If not we’ll, what would you recommend?
 
I've never used a WS, but the Sharpmaker and Lansky "Crock Sticks" are, IMHO, best when used to touch up an already sharp blade.

I have the Lansky Crock Sticks, with diamond, medium and fine rods. They really perform yeoman like service for my 15 and 20 degree hard steel blades.

Even with the diamond rods I can't imagine trying to reprofile a good steel with them.
 
I picked up a DMT Dia-SHARP Extra Coarse (220 grit) to sharpen my Military in S110V -- it took forever to put on edge on it with my higher grit DMTs. I find a very coarse edge works great with S110V -- cuts like a miniature chainsaw. It works great for reprofiling other steels as well.
 
Super steels are best sharpened with diamond or cbn stones, regardless of system.
Some people say that aluminum oxide will do it, but you can read up about carbide tear out for the counterpoint.
 
Can't agree more with Ben on the 'touching up', I think I even seen a youtuber said that Sharpmaker is more like Sharpkeeper, which I find it's true. But to be fair, I do use my Sharpmaker often to touch up or 'light' sharpen knifes/tools that I carry, but most of them are not 'super steel'.

As of Worksharp the 'field sharpener', I did get one, but just decided to keep it in its original package as a novelty item. I find their "angle guide" could be misleading, since it's so rare to find blade that's completely flat on both sides. Most knives I own has minimum 'flat' surface closer to spine, if any. For field sharpening/touching up, Spyderco double stuff or Fallkniven DC3 are definitely far more pocketable and easy to use. Just my 2 cents worth, YMMV.
 
The work sharp guided system with the diamond plates should work for all steels. I also like the sharp maker for touch ups.
 
Back
Top