0-1 questions

[Taz]

I am still working on my 0-1 blades. The only problem is that they don't really hold an edge at all. they get sharp, but don't hold it. I cut thru 1 piece of styrofoam and they are dull again. I am thinking my heat treat is off. We don't hold to non magentic, just till it is cherry red where the torch is. Also, we dont use 130 degreee oil, we use room temp stuff. third point, the steel grinds the same as before heat treat, it isn't any harder. It's frusturating cuz I like the way the blades look and everything, but they don't hold an edge worth spit! And Howard Clark isn't heat treating anymore. If the blade is heat treated and tempered, can it be heat treated and tempered again? I am thinking to go see Mr. Schott, in Wallingford to heat treat. I'm waiting to do handles for the knives until they have a proper heat treat, so I have nothing to do for a while. By the way, I changed the drop point tanto back into a drop point now, it is more useful and less threatening. the Vector type got the edge straightened out with less of a curve. i will try to get some pics up sometime soon. I will use my boss's scanner at work one of these days.

 

[mikeS]

If you didn't rech non magnetic you won't achieve max hardness. It should stil cut styrofoam though. Some of the material I've read on O-1, states it is better to heat and quench the entire blade, and then temper and do a soft back draw. See the post on torch heat treat the rig using firebrick and a weed burner might work for you.

 

[EricElson]

Taz,


I used to H/T O-1 with propane torches , and had some decent results doing it.

I could only use propane torches on small blades with 1/8 - 3/16" stock,
I sometimes had to use two torches to get the blade up to temperature.
I would concentrate on getting the portion within a 1/2" of the edge up to critical.
I quenched my blades in a 2 Gal pail of Brine.
I tempered the blades for 2 one hour cycles at 350 deg. in my kitchen oven.

Work pretty good, but if you can get someone to H\T your blades properly for you or show you how to do it than I would say do that.

Hope this helps

Eric

 

[Roger Gregory]

I lost touch with my heat treater so now I use propane torches again. If you can get hold of an enveloping cercoflam tip for the torch you can get up to 2400 degrees centigrade (according to the manufacturer) from a simple propane torch. That is of course rubbish

but I get a decent heat in an enclosure made from a few fire bricks.

I use the cercoflam burner to envelop the edge and work up and down that, not hardening the rest of the knife.

I use gear oil at room temperature and three 400 degree cycles afterwards.

There seems to be enough hardness in what I'm turning out in O1 at the moment but I know I'm not getting anywhere near the true potential of the steel. I just don't want to pay the minimum prices for my local heat treatment works.

Roger

 

[Jim Bakos]

Originally posted by Taz:
...just till it is cherry red where the torch is

Taz:
With O1, as with any tool steel, you need to keep the entire area your heat treating at temperature. It needs to heated uniformly, and held "cherry red" before being quenched.

I never liked the term "cherry red", as it can be misleading. When I flame harden O1 I heat it until I see the carbon scale start to form, hold it at that temperature for 15-20 seconds and quench in room temp oil.

I've used MAPP gas (available at most hardware stores) to harden small and/or thin pieces of O1. You can temper in a toaster oven, or in a pinch I've used electrical solder (which melts at 400 degrees)to judge the draw temperature. You can also temper by color, but that can easily go too far on a thin blade.

Hope this helps!

--Jim

FYI: I'm a part-time wannabe Knifemaker and a full-time Tool and Diemaker

 

[tejas7]

I think your problem may be the propane torch. I use a oxy/actelyn (i.e.-cutting torch) and get excellent results. I have used a propane torch to draw back the spines of blades but even doing that was taking too long. A really good brick enclosure should help things out.

Sell some of those knives and put the money back into equipment. Your knifemaking will get easier and even more fun.

P.S. - Don't send them out for heat treat. Do it yourself, it is part of the fun.
Good Luck.

 

[Taz]

Thanks for the reply's! I decided to change to A-2 tool steel for my real blades and use the 0-1 to play with as practice and to get the Ya Yah's out! I will probably send my A-2 to Paul Bos cuz I heard he is the best and will straighten warped blades, which I will probably need. $10 isn't too much money for heat treat, so I will up the price on my stuff a little to reflect shipping and stuff. I need to get some thinner steel...3/16 is killing my belts and the edges are very thick. Oh well, it was fun, but now i don't have to worry about heat treating!