01 Scaling ??

B

Bosbok

Joined
Jan 2, 2006
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4
Hi All
This is my first post to this forum and I am a complete green horn to this hobby and I need some info , so please be patient with me , I have just finnished my first knife a skinner.I used 01 , 3mm thick.After hardening 55 Rockwell , when I started to polish the blade I found that there was a lot of scaling or flaking showing up, it only showed when I started with the 400 & 600 grit so I had to go back and do some serious rework.
Is this normal or did I do something wrong.Would somebody have some advise on avoiding this , for I have a couple blades roughed out and would like not to get into the same situation like the first one.
Thanx
 
Bosbok said:
Hi All
This is my first post to this forum and I am a complete green horn to this hobby and I need some info , so please be patient with me , I have just finnished my first knife a skinner.I used 01 , 3mm thick.After hardening 55 Rockwell , when I started to polish the blade I found that there was a lot of scaling or flaking showing up, it only showed when I started with the 400 & 600 grit so I had to go back and do some serious rework.
Is this normal or did I do something wrong.Would somebody have some advise on avoiding this , for I have a couple blades roughed out and would like not to get into the same situation like the first one.
Thanx
Click to expand...
welcome
first I'd wonder why your Rock it so low? 58 sounds closer
for most knives in O1
I use o1 a lot and will always regrind after the H/T
you'll need to remove the dead layer of steel anyway left from the high heat..carbon loss.. ..unless you have an atmospheric generating oven..
with high carbon stainless I believe the same but you have other things you can do with that,,I hope this helps some.
 
Thanx Dan , Ok so it is normal for this to happen , it realy is a different story to work this steel after it is hardened , I dont have buffing wheels , I use an angle grinder , and then I use hand stones and then emery paper , I am working on building a propper buffing wheel that will make things easier , yes I did not do my homework enough on the hardening , the guy`s at work told , be carefull you dont whant it too hard , now I know better so the next blade will be better.
I am very happy with my first blade , there is huge room for improvement but that will come , now I know that I like this hobby and I will tackle it head on.
I will take some pictures tomorrow and post it.
Thanx for youre reply.
 
Razorback - Knives said:
I use stainless foil, no scaling.:D
Scott
Click to expand...

Scott your using it on High carbon too :eek: :) you must be made of money:D ;)
yes that is an avenue, for sure
I do still think that re-grinding is necessary though..especially for a good mirror polish but as always there's many different ways by many different makers.

my reasoning is
say I grind the blade lets take a 4" blade
it takes about 5 mins to harden it. O/A
slap it in the temper for an hour
run over the grind and flats again about 5-10 min (wilton grinder)
(temper for another hour >n0t always necessary ):)
then finish the surface to what ever I'm looking for with that blade.

for the time it takes me to re-grind I feel for myself is not worth the cost of foil, where I will re-grind it anyway but it's the way I do it..

I do use it on SS mainly because it's a different type of scale it's like a burnt surface, with O1 you'll see if done right most the lost carbon will pop right off the rest is easy to grind/finish up..

remember buffing is just to finish an already close hand mirrored finish
but to each his own here too..:)
 
Razorback,how in the heck do you get the foil off fast enough for quench after coming out of the oven ? I have recently considered doing some experimenting on some high carbon ( 10XX ) and a very,very thin coat of satanite and a product from Brownells ( I think without opening the cat. it is called "PBC" ) along with my evenheat.I am hoping that I can defeat the scaling problem using one of the 2 products , and still get it in the quench while still staying under the "curve".One of the two might be an option for you too Bosbok in defeating your scale prob. with O-1 . BTW , what is a Bosbok ?? :confused: :D Has any one tried either of these 2 methods for heat treat in a kiln without controlled atmosphere and had any good results ?Razorback,please elaborate on your method .
 
Some oil quench in the foil but I don't know how well that works . I wish someone would experimant to see if plate quenching [in the foil] would work on O-1 .
 
David Wesner said:
Razorback,how in the heck do you get the foil off fast enough for quench after coming out of the oven ? I have recently considered doing some experimenting on some high carbon ( 10XX ) and a very,very thin coat of satanite and a product from Brownells ( I think without opening the cat. it is called "PBC" ) along with my evenheat.I am hoping that I can defeat the scaling problem using one of the 2 products , and still get it in the quench while still staying under the "curve".One of the two might be an option for you too Bosbok in defeating your scale prob. with O-1 . BTW , what is a Bosbok ?? :confused: :D Has any one tried either of these 2 methods for heat treat in a kiln without controlled atmosphere and had any good results ?Razorback,please elaborate on your method .
Click to expand...
David
any thing that will keep o2 from the steel will to keep scaling from happening. but if it hampers the quench time that is the problem.
a thin coat of either should work well if it will stay on for the cycle.

I'll let Scott answer his question:)

Robert,, being an oil/Q steel I'm not sure if the edge it self will come dawn fast enough . I'm sure it will harden some but I'm not should if it will fully.. I'll have to try that some time..it wouldn't take long..
 
I think it was IG that suggested, somewhere, to use those green plastic abrasive pads you use on auto-filler or dirty dishpans. You probably have some in your kitchen. Use it right after pulling the knife out of the quench. I started doing this, and it works wonders -- scale comes right off, and if I want to sand instead of re-grind, it is easy to do. Also, by getting it off before temper, it is easier to see the color after temper.
 
What I do is cut a piece of foil a little longer than the blade and much wider. I fold the foil in half length wise and fold over the top. I leave part of the tang stick out the end and when I'm ready to quench, I grab the tang with pliers slide it out of the foil and quench. I sit the blade edge up on firebrick kniferacks in the furnace. I get scaling on the tang, but who cares, that gets covered with the handle material. I clean it up on a worn, then new scotchbrite belt.
Scott
 
I havent been getting much scale but have never really worried about it. I leave my edges plenty thick pre-HT to avoid warpage etc, and then just grind it away. I do the same trick and often scrub off the scale using the quenchant oil and a scotchbrite pad and that seems to work wonders.
 
You guy`s is of great help thank you very much for the help , Finnigan I will try this stuf for shure.

David , here is a picture of a Bosbok (Bushbuck) South African game , the first animal I shot on a hunt with my dad 12 y/o , 303 Mauser




myphotos
 
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