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Walt2

Walt2

Joined
Mar 13, 2001
Messages
1,157
How do you word a search for tempering info for 01 to where the search feature will accept it? It keeps telling me that 01 is less than the three letters required, regardless how I word it.
 
Walt,

This may not totally answer your question, but you can find tempering info at the McMasterCarr.com site.

Albin
 
Walt,
Type it like this in the search box:

*O-1*

This'll bring up any and all references to O-1. You might also try "tempering O-1" or "heat treating O-1". Put asterisks on both sides of the O-1 if it persists in being a PITA.

You might want to keep your search limited to the Shop Talk Forum unless you have an extra month or so to wade thru all the threads.:D


All the best,
Mike U.
 
Walt, you probably know more about HT'ing O1 than I but if you email me I can give you a killer recipie - if you do it in a open oven/forge.

Roger
 
I guess I should have elaborated a little on the info I am looking for. I am a retired welder and have a acetylene torch, gauges, and a small set of bottles. I decided to try making a blade out of 5160, using mostly hand tools. I finished it and sent it, last Wednesday, to someone else to heat treat/temper. I have been thinking about making some more, just as a hobby and just to see what I can do. Have been trying to decide on which steel to try next. Thats why I was asking about 0-1. Can 0-1 be heated to nonmagnetic and quenched, then tempered in an oven? If it can be done in an oven, where can I find temps and times? Do you use a single heat and quench? Although I have worked with different steels, mostly pipe and structural steels, I am strictly a green amateur when it comes to making a blade.I have always been pretty much of a knife nut and cannot stand a knife that will not hold an edge for a reasonable chore. Thank you for all the replies.
 
Walt,

As for O1 steel (as taught me by Tim Zowada):

All lights should be off and shades drawn in order for the untrained eye to see the shadows (ghosts).

Heat to 1475 F. As the steel austinitizes, If you watch carefully you will see one or more shadows in the steel. I call these ghosts and what you are seeing is the steel actually austinitizing. They appear to look like cold spots. They are not. They should also appear to move about the blade. You do not need a magnet for testing. When the ghost(s) finally disappear pull the steel - at that point and do not be more than a few seconds late in doing so. Quench in a manor so as to cut the oil in a back and forth motion, NOT side to side. Quench for approximately 7 seconds. When the blade is pulled the oil on it should smoke but NOT flame. If it flames quench another second or two. Try to pull the blade when it is about 350 to 400 F. (it smokes). The quenching oil should be pre-heated to about 140 F. so as not to over shock the steel. After quenching grip the end of tang in a vise and let 'still air' cool to no less than 125 F.. Simply laying the steel upon something prevents the steel from cooling uniformly.

I first snap temper once at 50 F. lower than I temper. I have been tempering at 375 F. It is vital that you temper (snap or regular) before the quenched steel falls below 125 F. but should not be greater than 150 F. So, have your temper oven pre-heated before quenching. I do three tempers, not including the snap temper. Although I have not yet done this: the second and third tempers may be best performed about 25 F. lower than the first temper. This may better preserve the original RC of the first temper (not talking about the snap temper here).

It is probably best to multiple quench and if cry-ed do it after a snap temper.

-------------------
If you can not see the shadow you can also use a magnet. The first method is, I believe, best.

Roger
 
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