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- Dec 7, 2008
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$10 and a trip to HD = DIY Anti-Scale compound that works!
This is one of those small victories and a I'll be damned it actually worked moments.
Picked up a 1lb container of powdered Roach Killer and a 1lb box of Red (Iron Oxide) Cement Color this morning at HD. After reading an old thread here about making your own Anti-Scale compound. Few failed attempts and then it worked!
Formula: 8 parts by volume of roach killer (Boric Acid) to 2 parts powdered red cement color (Iron Oxide) worked exactly like the Keepbryte I was paying $25 plus shipping = $45 for from MSC.
KEY to making it work: Wear a mask rated for vapor, this stuff gives off nasty fumes. Preheat the blade to 500-600 deg F. Sprinkle with powder as evenly as you can. I used an old spice shaker jar with larger holes in the lid. Does not need to be thick in fact just even coverage is best. Preheating the blade helps the powder stick.
Heat to no higher than 1600 deg F or the boric acid will eat into the blade. Most will come off in the quench and the remainder can be removed under hot tap water. Store in a dry place.
Blades come out clean as a whistle when done properly. If the stuff sticks it is usually due to overheating,
This is one of those small victories and a I'll be damned it actually worked moments.
Picked up a 1lb container of powdered Roach Killer and a 1lb box of Red (Iron Oxide) Cement Color this morning at HD. After reading an old thread here about making your own Anti-Scale compound. Few failed attempts and then it worked!
Formula: 8 parts by volume of roach killer (Boric Acid) to 2 parts powdered red cement color (Iron Oxide) worked exactly like the Keepbryte I was paying $25 plus shipping = $45 for from MSC.
KEY to making it work: Wear a mask rated for vapor, this stuff gives off nasty fumes. Preheat the blade to 500-600 deg F. Sprinkle with powder as evenly as you can. I used an old spice shaker jar with larger holes in the lid. Does not need to be thick in fact just even coverage is best. Preheating the blade helps the powder stick.
Heat to no higher than 1600 deg F or the boric acid will eat into the blade. Most will come off in the quench and the remainder can be removed under hot tap water. Store in a dry place.
Blades come out clean as a whistle when done properly. If the stuff sticks it is usually due to overheating,