Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
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- 38,145
For those who do more quenching than the occasional maker,here is a larger tank.It has an optional cooling unit to keep the temperature from climbing as you quench several blades.The cooler unit is not necessary for the tank to operate.It can be built as an add-on later.
The basic unit is made from a 12 gallon electric water heater.They cost $130-180.You can get one at Home Depot,Lowe's,Plumbing suppliers,(maybe free from a plumber).Watch for sales and 10% off offers.
You will need 2 quarts of Bondo,a 3/4" metal boiler drain valve,a junction box,switch/receptacle,heavy duty power cord (12 or 14 gague extension cord works fine), 2 handles,and a meat thermometer.
The cooling option parts are all auto parts.You can buy them new at the auto parts store,or salvage them from the junk yard. The cooler requires a universal fuel pump, a transmission oil cooling radiator,3/8" transmission oil hose,an electric cooling fan, an adjustable fan controller unit, a 12 volt power source ( I used a small battery charger),and fittings to attach the 3/8" hose to the in and out ports on the tank.
These water heaters are often sealed and insulated with urethane foam (like Great Stuff).I had to tear the top apart to get it off.Be careful with the sharp edges.SEE PHOTO
Start by removing the drain and relief valves.You won't be reusing them. Put a plug in the relief valve hole if it was on the side.Install a metal boiled drain valve .
Remove the top cover.Don't worry about bending the rim of the side shell.You are going to cut it down lower,anyway.
Using a putty knife,dig out the foam insulation until it is removed about 1 inch down the side.(If your unit has fiber insulation you will have no problem removing the top and the insulation.)
If your unit has the wires sticking out the top,remove them.(Disconnect from element and pull out.)
Cut the shell off about even with the top.(I used a saber saw with a 24 tooth bi-metal blade.) You can tape the cut edge with duct tape to make it smooth.SEE PHOTO
To cut the tank top off.,drill a 1/4" pilot hole,then use the saber saw with an 18 tooth Bi-metal blade to cut around the top.I left a little extra metal on the top on one side and drilled a 1/4" hole to allow the thermometer to be hung there.SEE PHOTOS
(A reciprocating saw with a short Bi-metal blade also works well once you have a starter slot.)
File/sand/grind cut edge of tank.The insulation should be about 1 inch lower than the cut off edge.
Seal gap around the shell with Bondo.Smooth it from the edge of the tank to the edge of the shell (shell should be slightly higher that tank edge.)
Install a junction box on the side of shell next to the element cover.Wire a 15Amp switch with the power cord (I cut the end off a 25" heavy duty extension cord) and wire to the element.SEE PHOTO
Cut a 3/4" hole in the element cover to allow adjustment of temperature control.SEE PHOTO
Make the cord length appropriate to the length needed for your installation location,no need for extra cord on the floor.
You can leave the plugs in the side if you are not adding the cooler at this time.
If you aren't building the cooler - the tank is done.
Make or buy a sturdy base for it (they sell water heater bases at the place you got the tank) and install the tank where it will be used.It is best for the tank to be high enough to allow the drain to fill a 5 gallon oil bucket.A washing machine hose,with one end cut off, also works to fill the pail when draining.
Clean it out and fill it with 10 gallons (maybe a bit more) of good commercial quench oil.
Drop the meat thermometer in the top hole.
Turn the temperature control to a bit under mid-setting.Turn on power and let come up to stable temperature.Adjust slowly to get to the desired temperature.
If building the cooler,remove the plugs and install the fittings for the 3/8" transmission oil hose.SEE PHOTO
The cooler is just a recirculation line with a cooling radiator and a controlled fan.The oil pump (auto fuel pump) is wired in parallel to the fan and both are operated by the controller.Mount the control on the side of the tank ,next to the switch is a good place,and put the thermocouple in the oil where the meat thermometer is.The pump and power source (old battery charger in my case) can be located in the base support for the tank.Plug the power source into the receptacle on the switch.The cooler should be located away from the tank,to avoid drafts.The cooler is connected to the pump and tank by two lengths of transmission oil hose.The power line to the fan is taped to one hose and the two are taped together to keep it neat.I made mine up with ten foot long hoses (Hose is $1.49/ft).The oil flow is from the top of the tank - to the pump - to the cooler - to the bottom of the tank.I made a anti-eddy diverter to keep any agitation in the oil to a minimum.It was a piece of 1/2" copper pipe that has 1/8" holes drilled all down the sides.It sticks in the return port from the inside.The oil return moves sideways across the bottom of the tank that way.Pump volume is low,around 1 GPM,so this is not really a problem.
Set controller to come on about five degrees higher that tank setting.It should come on and cool the oil,when multiple quenching raises the temperature.
Safety Notes: Never try to move this tank with hot oil!
The handles are for moving the empty tank around,
moving the full tank is not recommended.A permanent
base and location are recommended.
An old trash can lid makes a good cover.Keep oil
covered to keep it clean,cover to extinguish flare-ups.
I'll post the making of the cooler later.
Stacy
The basic unit is made from a 12 gallon electric water heater.They cost $130-180.You can get one at Home Depot,Lowe's,Plumbing suppliers,(maybe free from a plumber).Watch for sales and 10% off offers.
You will need 2 quarts of Bondo,a 3/4" metal boiler drain valve,a junction box,switch/receptacle,heavy duty power cord (12 or 14 gague extension cord works fine), 2 handles,and a meat thermometer.
The cooling option parts are all auto parts.You can buy them new at the auto parts store,or salvage them from the junk yard. The cooler requires a universal fuel pump, a transmission oil cooling radiator,3/8" transmission oil hose,an electric cooling fan, an adjustable fan controller unit, a 12 volt power source ( I used a small battery charger),and fittings to attach the 3/8" hose to the in and out ports on the tank.
These water heaters are often sealed and insulated with urethane foam (like Great Stuff).I had to tear the top apart to get it off.Be careful with the sharp edges.SEE PHOTO
Start by removing the drain and relief valves.You won't be reusing them. Put a plug in the relief valve hole if it was on the side.Install a metal boiled drain valve .
Remove the top cover.Don't worry about bending the rim of the side shell.You are going to cut it down lower,anyway.
Using a putty knife,dig out the foam insulation until it is removed about 1 inch down the side.(If your unit has fiber insulation you will have no problem removing the top and the insulation.)
If your unit has the wires sticking out the top,remove them.(Disconnect from element and pull out.)
Cut the shell off about even with the top.(I used a saber saw with a 24 tooth bi-metal blade.) You can tape the cut edge with duct tape to make it smooth.SEE PHOTO
To cut the tank top off.,drill a 1/4" pilot hole,then use the saber saw with an 18 tooth Bi-metal blade to cut around the top.I left a little extra metal on the top on one side and drilled a 1/4" hole to allow the thermometer to be hung there.SEE PHOTOS
(A reciprocating saw with a short Bi-metal blade also works well once you have a starter slot.)
File/sand/grind cut edge of tank.The insulation should be about 1 inch lower than the cut off edge.
Seal gap around the shell with Bondo.Smooth it from the edge of the tank to the edge of the shell (shell should be slightly higher that tank edge.)
Install a junction box on the side of shell next to the element cover.Wire a 15Amp switch with the power cord (I cut the end off a 25" heavy duty extension cord) and wire to the element.SEE PHOTO
Cut a 3/4" hole in the element cover to allow adjustment of temperature control.SEE PHOTO
Make the cord length appropriate to the length needed for your installation location,no need for extra cord on the floor.
You can leave the plugs in the side if you are not adding the cooler at this time.
If you aren't building the cooler - the tank is done.
Make or buy a sturdy base for it (they sell water heater bases at the place you got the tank) and install the tank where it will be used.It is best for the tank to be high enough to allow the drain to fill a 5 gallon oil bucket.A washing machine hose,with one end cut off, also works to fill the pail when draining.
Clean it out and fill it with 10 gallons (maybe a bit more) of good commercial quench oil.
Drop the meat thermometer in the top hole.
Turn the temperature control to a bit under mid-setting.Turn on power and let come up to stable temperature.Adjust slowly to get to the desired temperature.
If building the cooler,remove the plugs and install the fittings for the 3/8" transmission oil hose.SEE PHOTO
The cooler is just a recirculation line with a cooling radiator and a controlled fan.The oil pump (auto fuel pump) is wired in parallel to the fan and both are operated by the controller.Mount the control on the side of the tank ,next to the switch is a good place,and put the thermocouple in the oil where the meat thermometer is.The pump and power source (old battery charger in my case) can be located in the base support for the tank.Plug the power source into the receptacle on the switch.The cooler should be located away from the tank,to avoid drafts.The cooler is connected to the pump and tank by two lengths of transmission oil hose.The power line to the fan is taped to one hose and the two are taped together to keep it neat.I made mine up with ten foot long hoses (Hose is $1.49/ft).The oil flow is from the top of the tank - to the pump - to the cooler - to the bottom of the tank.I made a anti-eddy diverter to keep any agitation in the oil to a minimum.It was a piece of 1/2" copper pipe that has 1/8" holes drilled all down the sides.It sticks in the return port from the inside.The oil return moves sideways across the bottom of the tank that way.Pump volume is low,around 1 GPM,so this is not really a problem.
Set controller to come on about five degrees higher that tank setting.It should come on and cool the oil,when multiple quenching raises the temperature.
Safety Notes: Never try to move this tank with hot oil!
The handles are for moving the empty tank around,
moving the full tank is not recommended.A permanent
base and location are recommended.
An old trash can lid makes a good cover.Keep oil
covered to keep it clean,cover to extinguish flare-ups.
I'll post the making of the cooler later.
Stacy