1018 and O1 sammich issue

C

ctaylorjr

Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
108
Laminated a piece of O1 between 2 pieces of 1018, welded up, beat the crap out of them after welding at almost welding temp, got the profile I wanted and then heated one more time to non-mag and then let sit to cool so I could trim a bit on the bandsaw.

Around 24 hours later this stuff is HARD HARD HARD! Bandsaw JUST made a shiny spot on the edge of the laminate.

Annealing now, but any ideas about why this happened? Could I have gotten an air hardening steel in place of what I thought was 1018? Now, if I DID get something besides the mild steel, what's gonna happen when I oil quench? :eek:

I'll chime back in after anneal and post the results.

Charlie
 
Del, I thought I did properly anneal by taking the steel back to non-magnetic and then letting it cool back to room temp. I took it straight from the forge, laid it on a piece of ceramic blanket, folded over, and left until the next evening. The main reason I did that is due to the work hardening of the O1... Could I have done something different?

Didn't get a chance to work the steel last night, but will try this evening.

Charlie
 
proper annealing of O-1 is a long process. I do believe it needs to have a 2 hour soak at 1475 degrees and then drop 50 degrees an hour until you hit 1100 degrees, then air cool to room temp. I might be wrong, but i am sure others will chime in.
 
ctaylorjr said:
Del, I thought I did properly anneal by taking the steel back to non-magnetic and then letting it cool back to room temp. I took it straight from the forge, laid it on a piece of ceramic blanket, folded over, and left until the next evening. The main reason I did that is due to the work hardening of the O1... Could I have done something different?

Didn't get a chance to work the steel last night, but will try this evening.

Charlie
Click to expand...


The anneal I use is 1375 for an hour and then drops 50F per hour until you hit 850F then finish cooling along with the oven. It takes almost 16 hours total.
BTW, Mike listed the textbook anneal, and there is nothing wrong with that, but I have found that mine gets me a few points softer, at least on O-1/L-6 damascus.
The way you did it will work on steels with less alloy content, 10xx, w-1 ect, but with the bit of chromium and tungsten, it makes the steel deeper hardening and needs a longer cooling cycle.
I am confused by the comment about work hardening? Work hardening is always a cold process, I hope you didn't hit the steel cold.
Del
 
LOL, I didn't hit it cold for sure... Work hardening was not the best phrase for that. The cable between the fingers and brain is short circuiting this late in the week.

After replying to you earlier I looked up the anneal process for the O1 and found about what Mike was talking about... I'll see what I can do tonight. Thanks for the assistance.

Charlie
 
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