103 edge and sharpening question

M

Mr. Tettnanger

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Jul 14, 2012
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I picked up a 70's era 103 recently. It is as dull as my social life! I have been reading up on the 103's from that time and I believe that they had thicker stock than current models and have a convex edge. Is that correct?

My sharpening skills are subpar at best. I do have diamond stones and a Work Sharp. If the edge is convexed, my thinking is that I would have better luck getting an edge on it with the Work Sharp than the stones. The Work Sharp puts a convex edge on blades.

If I sent it back to Buck for a Spa treatment, what edge profile would they put on it?

Thanks!
 
I'd like to know the answer also. I have an early 120 that was resharpened with a "V" edge and it doesn't look right. Can the convexed edge be put back?
 
I will be curious what the experts who know more than I have to say but it think Bucks of that vintage were made just a bit thicker above the edge to help prevent the edge from breaking out. as I understand it, 440C was a new steel and had a reputation for being brittle.

My old 2 dot 110 had an edge like that. I spent a long time and put a 17 degree per side secondary bevel on it combined with a 20-dps primary bevel. This more or less fixed the problem for me.
 
I think (if anyone is left who knows how to work these blades) Buck would put a short bevel on it leaving the thicker stock above the bevel. That's the manner they came from the factory back then. Perhaps Joe and one other knows how to do this. (Leroy) It looks more convex but looking close it is more a short V grind. 440C is not brittle. This may have circulated on forums on the internet but Buck even did a cryogenic quench and at least 2 tempers. So, I think there is little chance for it. Plus, I've not found one that was brittle. One can really turn the 103 into a excellent skinner by grinding down/ off the thick stock to give it a hollow grind to the edge. Which they went to later. As the 3 dot 110's had this. DM
 
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