Wow, that's gonna be fast.
First, get another piece of 1080 to test with, at 2300 you're gonna run a real risk of overheating by a mile.
I'd get your quench oil up to temp at the same time you turn on the forge, no point waiting on it. I'm not super picky about the quench temp, basically I get it warm enough it's hot to the touch but not too hot to touch. Since I've got a rather large tank of it the temp changes slowly and it's easy to stop it in the right range. I use the heat escaping out the back of my forge to heat the quench (it's in a nitrogen gas cylinder with the top cut off) so when it's ready I just slide it a bit further from the heat and it's fine.
Put the blade in the forge, edge down, and I wouldn't let go of it with the tongues since it's not going to be in there long. Try to move it around enough to keep the heat even as it comes up to temp. As it starts to get warm enough to glow a bit be extra careful about evening up that heat. When it's a bright orange check with the magnet, continue to check along the blade as the color shows increasing heat until you get a feel for where it's going non magnetic. Don't worry about the tang, but the whole blade plus ricasso area should be non magnetic. Then go just a touch hotter than that. If that's a light orange in your lighting conditions, go dark yellow, for example. It's easier to see than explain in words. Luckily 1080's pretty forgiving, as long as you're past magnetic and not way past then it'll be fine.
Once up to temp and evenly heated, quickly go from the forge into the quench. Straight in, with no sideways motion. You want it almost as if you were trying to slice into or stab the quench. Avoid any and all sideways motion or you multiply your chances of a bent blade since it's fairly plastic at this point. Keep it in there, agitate a bit, give it at least 30 seconds to a minute. Longer won't hurt with 1080, you just give up the option to straighten it if it bent, you'd do that later during tempering in that case. For starting out that's how I'd go, safer for your hands and harder to screw up. (eta - as mentioned in the first reply, the first few seconds are doing the real work. I leave it in longer simply to reduce the time delay between quench and temper. I let the canola soak up more of the heat before I take it out. As a newbie, and for a newbie, judging the initial quench accurately enough and then straightening right then is too much to juggle reliably when there's a slower but effective method.)
Wipe it off, check for any cracks or major warping. The scale will make it tough to see tiny cracks but as long as it looks ok it's time to move on. Take a needle file or even a regular file and make sure it skates on the hardened portion. I use the spine of my knives not the edge, less damage if I screwed up

and in 1080 and 1084 if the spine is hard it's essentially foolproof for the edge area. You don't want to bang the knife around at this point, don't drop it or smack it with the file, it's brittle and will break.
If it skates, get it into the tempering oven (preheated) at 400-425. You want the oven already at temp and settled, use the middle rack position. Let it soak for at least an hour. Most folks suggest 90 minutes to 2 hours. When it is done with that temper, running water to cool it off, check for straightness since this next cycle is when you'll fix that. Assuming it's straight, back in for another 2 hours. I don't turn off the oven, it's usually only a couple minutes between temper cycles with this method.
Once out of the tempering oven, cool it off again and put it in a container of vinegar to deal with the scale. I use a throw away oven pan, those foil like things, just enough in the bottom to cover the steel. Let it soak, swish it around a bit now and then, turn it over... a few hours to soften up that scale makes life easier afterward. Just wear gloves or be ready to have black hands afterward, it's messy. I use paper towels to do the wipe down afterward and then it's on to the grinder or sandpaper for finishing.