1095 &1084

I

IUBI

Joined
Jan 3, 2000
Messages
170
My friend keeps telling me that these two particular steels are not good. His explination for this is that they rust too easily (compared to d2 or o1 and so on) and that they are meant for bigger tools such as axes . I keep telling him that i want to get a neck knife and when i tell him that it is made from either 1095 or 1084, he says it is no good. He says that I "sweat like a gorilla" and this would cause the knife to rust, pit and that the edge would "crumble off" because i wouldnt keep it clean. Any knife does this without proper care Duh, but does this happen faster to 1095/1084?

Now my other question is: is it true that 1095/1084 are not good steels for smaller knives?
and if so, would coating help the corrosion?

I KNOW YOU ARE GOING TO READ THIS ANDREW, SO WHEN YOU DO, POST YOUR THOUGHTS.
 
Iubi,
if someone can maintain the quality of a 1095/1084 axe or large knife in a humid environment, I can't see why they wouldn't be able to do it for a small knife!

Note that Newt Livesay, REKAT, Allen Blade, and Running Dog all make neck knives in 1095 or 1084. Of course, all of these are protected with a coating (Moly, Ti, or Selenium Dioxide) to insulate them from our sweaty necks. I own some of these, and many other form members do as well. If you were thinking of making knives of your own there are various coatings that you could apply, or you could send it out to have it done by another.
 
The corrosion resistance of 1095/1084 is very low, much less than tool steels. Rust however can easily be prevented by using a decent inhibitor such as Marine Tuf-Cloth.

As for the steel choice related to suitability for a neck knife. That would depend on the intended usage for the blade.

-Cliff
 
If you have a moisture absorbant sheath like leather or fabric and you get it soaked with sweat I recommend a stainess steel. I also recommend a non-absorbant sheath in this case. The trade-off is that many non-absorbant materials aren't as comfortable against the skin. I would look for an inexpensive stainless that is easy to sharpen like AUS-8 or Sandvic 12C27 in place of 1084 or 1095.
 
Dave Ellis ABS, Mastersmith here. I think that 1084 or 1095 is better for smaller knives, I make large bowies from a lower carbon steel such as 1060 or 5160. Sure high carbon blades can rust, they are also easier to sharpen, hold their edge longer and with a minimum of effort can be kept up just fine, simply do not sheath wet or bloody and wipe down with a good oil from time to time. Also you can black oxide,etc.
Check out my site if you like for info and pictures.
Dave ellis, ABS, M.S. http://www.mastersmith.com

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WOW!! ELLIS nice knives!
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What would you do for a Klondike bar?
 
I'd repeat the several good points made so far -- use tuff-cloth (or consider getting te knife coated with an inhibitor), consider stainless, and especially, choice of steel should be at least partially-determined by what you're going to use the knife for.

Of the two steels you picked,
I don't see much 1084 used for short, general-usage knives. It tends to get used for a bit harder-duty knives, tempered a bit low to emphasize toughness. 1095 would seem to be better-suited to your use. Me, considering that neck knife conditions can be somewhat corrosive, I'd go for a good stainless. Otherwise, I'd go for D-2, to get at least some stain resistance.

Joe
 
I own Parkerized and Black Ti coated 1095 neck knives and have less problems with them rusting against my skin than my ATS34 neck knives.
 
Just remember that even the best coating there is does not protect the edge. The tuf cloth is a good choice but most likly will wear off once you cut something.So if you are a heavy sweatter SS may be a better choice.
 
Now I miss the delete post function.

[This message has been edited by db (edited 01-20-2000).]
 
Simply clean/ wipe down perodically. Tuff cloth is an excellent corrosion inhibitor and is used by many of the knife community. An inexpensive powder coat does add a bit more resistance but routine wiping is still needed. Take care of the knives that take care of you.

L8r,
Nakano

BTW, some of my 1080 series Ruana small fixed blades are among the sharpest I' ve ever owned!! Excellent work knives.
 
My point is this:
Given the lack of chromium in 1084 & 95 micro-oxygenation & pitting will be a constant problem. I know that a coating will protect the blade, but i've no experience with any products (tuff-cloth or what not) that are appied to the cutting edge, so I cant comment on their durability. However I've seen some very fine swords made from selectively tempered 1084 so I'm sure its a solid preformer. Just seems a bit of a hastle when there are other (better?) steels out there.
 
i am becoming more of a fan of simpler steels. i have 440V, some VG-10 and a couple other "exotics", but i am having more interest in the old standby's lately. 1095 is a good steel, holds an edge well in my experience, and i find it doesn't rust THAT easily. get it parkerized and wipe down with tuff-cloth and you shouldn't have problems. you seem like the kind that will play with your knife enough to notice any rust in its very early stages and take care of it immediately. i've found that i neglect stainless more since it is "stainless". i've had more stainless knives show slight rust spots than carbon steel because i baby my carbon steel. really it is your choice. if you decide to go for stainless, i'd go with something like AUS-6 or 440A since they are extremely rust resistant. they don't hold an edge forever, but your knife probably won't be a daily use piece. if you get stainless, go for really stainless, but i'd recommend going for 1095 and taking care of it.
 
I've got 2 of Newt Livesay's 1095 tool steel knives, a Cord Wraped woo and new (got it yesterday) Custom Air Assualt. Read what he has on his and Jeff Randalls web pages about this steel, take care of it and it will take care of you. That is unless you want a knife you can wear and use but not take care of
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Remember everyting will rust somewhat, it just depends on your cotmitment to taking care of your blades. http://server3.ezboard.com/blivesayknives
 
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