1095 Cro-Van?

B

Brommeland

Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
747
I have a 20 year old son who can destroy anything - and I mean anything. He needed a knife, so I bought him a BK #2. So far, it's the only thing (besides a hammer head and an actual crow bar) that he has actually used that he hasn't broken.

This thing is bulletproof, and it takes a wicked edge. However, it seems a little softer than other 1095 blades that I've owned and it requires a touch up pretty frequently to keep it sharp. So, I'm curious about the steel. How is it different from regular ole 1095, or is it just 1095 heat treated more for toughness than hardness?

BTW, I still have an original Machax - from back when they were 4140 with walnut handle scales. I gave it to the same kid about 5 years ago, and he still hasn't managed to break it either. That's the best testimonial that I can give regarding Ethan's stuff.:thumbup:
 
Last edited:
1095 is a proprietary steel that is comprised of 1095 with a tiny addition of chromium and vanadium for increased toughness.
 
The Beckers run at about 57 hrc, which is soft but like you said more for toughness than edge holding. A lot of custom makers will run there 1095 up to 60 hrc at the edge (good ones will leave the spine softer so it can still take hard use) however for a production company to do a heat treat like that would likely result in broken blades because 1095 at 60 really isn't super tough as it falls off pretty fast after 57 hrc.

And for all practical purposes there is no difference in 1095 and 1095 cro van.
 
1095CV is just 1095 with a little chromium and vanadium added for toughness and corrosion resistance. The frequent sharpening may be due to the sheath. The hard plastic sheath is made from a fiberglass reinforced nylon. If the edge cuts into it while sheathing or unsheathing the knife it will dull the knife pretty quick.
 
Last edited:
Brommeland said:
BTW, I still have an original Machax - from back when they were 4140 with walnut handle scales. I gave it to the same kid about 5 years ago, and he still hasn't managed to break it either.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that version is ultra rare and worth some serious $. Pictures? Don't let him break that!

Bladite will probably chime in he know more...
 
My ISP is satellite based (I live in the boonies) and we have weather closing in. It usually goes tits up when we get a heavy cloud cover, but I'll try to do some pics in a day or two. For everyone who has chimed in to answer my question, thank you!
 
Brommeland said:
I have a 20 year old son who can destroy anything - and I mean anything. He needed a knife, so I bought him a BK #2. So far, it's the only thing (besides a hammer head and an actual crow bar) that he has actually used that he hasn't broken.

This thing is bulletproof, and it takes a wicked edge. However, it seems a little softer than other 1095 blades that I've owned and it requires a touch up pretty frequently to keep it sharp. So, I'm curious about the steel. How is it different from regular ole 1095, or is it just 1095 heat treated more for toughness than hardness?

BTW, I still have an original Machax - from back when they were 4140 with walnut handle scales. I gave it to the same kid about 5 years ago, and he still hasn't managed to break it either. That's the best testimonial that I can give regarding Ethan's stuff.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

I think it has less to do with the HT (which is good) and more with the thickness of the BK2. Not as sharp as a paperthin razor, you know :)
 
What sheath do you have on the BK-2? Some folks had issues with the plastic/kydex version dulling their BK-2s, prematurely. I am not exactly sure what time frame though.

You might want to have a look at the BK-22, same knife, nylon sheath. I believe the sheath can be had separetly.

I usually try to keep after my Beckers and friends. A couple of passes on the strop after a few uses and they stay sharp enough for me,

 
Last edited:
Time period of dulling sheath is one like mine that doesn't even have a thumb ramp on the side to assist drawing the knife.

I really need to trade that thing in...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top