1095 High Carbon Steel

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Forgedfixedblade

Joined
Jul 10, 2014
Messages
236
I see a lot of advertising where people are commenting on 1095 being very prone to rust and corrosion if not kept treated. I would just like to comment that I have an Ontario Knife Machete that I have recently cut apart and customized into two different style knives, the machete I have owned for nearly 15 years that is made from 1095 HCS that has had zero rust form on it. I live here on the humid coast of NC about 5 miles from the water and have used this particular blade a lot over the years, never cleaned or treated it with anything, simply threw it back on my shelf in the garage after use. As for my 1095 knives, I actually keep my blades clean and polished up after use with a quality automotive wax, also never had any rust on those. Not real keen on the idea of keeping my blades oiled because I just don't want oil on my hands every time I handle one of them. What are some of your guys experiences and treatments of this particular metal?:thumbup:
 
With a minimal amount of care, it will not rust. The same can be said for most steels. I keep them wiped off after using them and wipe them with a Tuf cloth. The problem with a lot of people having rust problems is that they do not even wipe them off after using them. Blood and liquids will rust a blade quickly. If you work to get a good patina, they will hold up really well, also.

I do live in a very low humidity climate, though.
 
Rust can be so theoretical. I've never had what I would consider a problem with rust on steels so many warn about. I do wipe my blades down occasionally but nothing major.

I use car wax on some on my uncoated blades and have stored a few fixed blades in sheaths for years after just leaving a thin coat of Flitz on them. Where I have encountered rust, like on hard-use bolo's that remain packed for periods or non-stainless steels on some finer knives, it only warrants some steel wool. Rust erasers are very good too.

Luckily I'm not a steel snob where the 420's and 440's are concerned. I have several knives in those categories, a few of them EDC's, which pretty much takes rust out of one's life.

I believe most people here are likely to take good enough care of their knives that rust isn't the problem it may be with the knon-knife-knut world too.

I know there will be some good rust horror stories here though....
 
There are those that think carbon stels are instantly water soluble. Not quite. I EDC carbon knives- 1075, 5160, ect.
1) Use them
2) flitz once every week or two. and there is not much to it.
 
Bad rusting only happens when you put the knife somewhere and never look at it for weeks or months.

Minimal maintenance plus a patina; it will last a lifetime.
 
Great steal. I've occasionally had a little rust when I put it away for awhile or didn't use the Tuf. It's the steal on my "go to" hunting knife. Sharpens easily.
 
I'm in SoCal, so rust is an absolute non issue. My only 1095 blade is my ESEE 4, and I have yet to put a drop of oil on it. I just wipe it clean with a cloth before storing it, and it's perfectly fine when I take it out again.
 
Love 1095 its tough as hell holds an edge well ans easy to sharpen. I live in Colorado so humidity is not an issue. But, how hard is it to wipe some mineral oil on your blade before you store it?
 
This comes up a lot. You should hear how much all the guys in traditional (me included) love 1095.

I carry a knife with 1095 99% of days. I use sunshine cloth if some discoloration/patina i don't like the looks of starts.

Cut some meat or apples and you're fine, the only time I've noticed i get rust is if i don't use a knife for too long.
 
Depends what you mean by "rust".

I typically abuse and neglect my knives far beyond my own recommendations on purpose, just to see what will happen. That's just part of my job.

A little grey patina, pitting, orange bloom or browning does not hurt a blade, overall. It will definitely degrade a fine edge very quickly.

As others have said, there are lots of ways to protect the edge of a low-allow knife... lately I've been experimenting with Burt's Bees chapstick. So far it seems to be working pretty well... it's thick and sticky enough to seal the edge from moisture/oxygen in storage, but it's food-safe. (I'm not thrilled about putting toxic substances on knife blades; IMO every knife should be ready to prepare lunch at a moment's notice)
 
I like 1095,takes a good edge with little effort.Clean mine with flitz once a week ,no rust or patina.Just the way I like it.
 
james terrio said:
As others have said, there are lots of ways to protect the edge of a low-allow knife... lately I've been experimenting with Burt's Bees chapstick. So far it seems to be working pretty well... it's thick and sticky enough to seal the edge from moisture/oxygen in storage, but it's food-safe. (I'm not thrilled about putting toxic substances on knife blades; IMO every knife should be ready to prepare lunch at a moment's notice)
Click to expand...

Burt's Bees chapstick...now there is something I have not thought of. I use mineral oil, as I also feel a knife should be food safe. I will have to give that a try. Thanks for the tip.
 
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