1095 shim stock hard and blued

[cgn-hs]

Hi
I can get some 1095 shim stock that is hardened and blued, can this be used for making Damascus? Would I need to do anything to it before starting the forge welding of it?
Dan

 

[A C Richards]

It is ready to go as long as it is clean. Cut it to length, stack and weld up the ends. It is also a good idea to weld the sides as it will warp really bad. I do mine in a box. I weld a piece to the sides to seal it. Then make sure the piece comes up to temp fully before pressing.

 

[cgn-hs]

Chuck
Thanks for the quick reply. I will contact the guy tomorrow and make a deal.
So the bluing will not bother the forge welding process?
Dan

 

[A C Richards]

The blue is an oxide caused by tempering. It will not have an impact.

 

[cgn-hs]

Chuck
Any suggestions on what I should match it too, different steel?
Thanks for the help so far.
Dan

 

[JMJones]

I would suggest 15n20 as the other steel.

One thing to consider is that with thin strips of steel you need to use alot to make a billet and each of those strips needs to weld to the strip on top and below in order to have a successfully welded billet. That is alot of potential welds to fail. Using thicker stock you have fewer initial welds and only one per fold, which doubles the layer count. You will be able to reach the same layer count with alot fewer welds with thicker stock.

 

[A C Richards]

I agree with the 15n20. If the 1095 is too thin double or triple it up. The number of welds to fail is a good point. However that is why I dry weld. I get about 99.9% good welds in a box. The only failures come when I try to take a shortcut. When I fold I do a 5 cut stack. So there are 4 welds that could fail. Dry welding solves most of the problems encountrted. It takes a little longer to prep but the outcome is worth it.