1095 vs. Hard Tool Steels (D2, etc.)

B

bladebobby

Joined
Feb 1, 2011
Messages
6
Hey gang,

In my experience my 1095s always seem to be my "go to" blades, but D2 has its advantages as well (extreme hardness, etc.).

I've seen opinions that D2 - although extremely hard - will take a lot of work to re-hone and get an edge again, while 1095 gets right back in the game a lot quicker. This has been my own experience as well.

Any thoughts on this? Also, I've seen a lot of blade disciples claim that their 1095s are much "tougher" (less prone to blade chip, etc.) than the D2s they've used. Again, seeking experienced opinions.

As I said, in my own experience the D2s do hold an edge much better, but for overall "toughness", chip-resisitance, ease of sharpening, resilience in cold weather and re-shaping it seems to me that good 'ole 1095 is tough to beat. I'd love to hear any thoughts on this.

Take care

bladebobby
 
My opinions fall similar to yours. One thing I would add though is that D2 should quite a bit more stain resistant due to its much higher chromium content.
 
Hey thanks.

And definitely yes on the stain resist where D2 is concerned. I've always noted that RAT (now ESEE) favors 1095 (like Ka-Bar), and even recommends a dry-film rust inhibitor for their blades, particularly (as they say) around the stamp. But they seem to hang with 1095 because of its overall utility.

Was always a fan of RATs (ESEEs), and they claim a D2 folder is in the offing. (Chuckle) Their take on 1095 vs. D2 seems to be about the same!!

Thanks - take care
 
Another thing to consider as well is that many companies are using 1095 cro-van and other versions as well. These are not yer good ole 1095, they have been beefed up with other elements to improve their performance.
 
Hey BEKnives,

Great point.

The consensus as I've always understood it seems to be that the Chromium lends stain-resist while the Vanadium lends edge retention to good 'ole tough-and-timeless 1095.

Appreciate the input.

Take care
 
You're new here so you won't remember but a poster that was banned the other night used to start this thread every once in awhile. You can see the results if you use the search.
 
Chromium and carbon form carbides, which help to increase the edge retention. D2 has quite much carbon which takes a part of the chromium for these carbides and the rest free chromium isn't enough to provide adequate rust resistance. So D2 needs a lil' bit of care. I hope this helps :)
 
Hey I have a Burch Bamboo being made by Michael, what should I put on the blade to keep rust from forming on the 1095? I plan on using it alot. Advise is appreciated.
 
Personally -- I would use 1095, but I would have it much harder than you usually see it. 1095 at 63-64 rockwell hardness is tougher than D2 is at 60. It holds an edge about as long and it is SO MUCH easier to sharpen; most of the time all you need is a loaded strop to get it razor sharp again. Old School.

The problem with the above option though -- I don't know a production company that runs 1095 with that kind of a heat treatment.

There isn't anything wrong with D2 in my book -- I think it's much easier to maintain in a folder, especially. The CPM varieties of it are even better. Bob Dozier's heat treatment is better-still for D2, I hear. But, if I wasn't doing something around salt-water, for my own use, I wouldn't see an upside to using a semi-stainless steel over a properly heat treated non stainless.

Now -- if the menu of steels were expanded -- if CPM tool steels were on the table, I would have a harder decision. CPM 3V is not that far from being a semi-stainless and it's basically superior in every way to D2. CPM M4 is also much tougher than D2 and has far and away superior wear resistance. Both of those steels are considerably pricer than any carbon steel; especially in thicker stock.

Edit: if you want to maintain a 1095 blade, for the most part, keeping it clean and dry should be enough. If you are storing it short-term, or want an extra degree of corrosion resistance you can rub it with a little oil once it is clean. Olive oil isn't a bad option for food-prep knives. You can use something stronger, like gun-oil, WD-40, whatever, for utility or woodcraft knives. I use lithium grease for storing carbon steel knives.
 
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