110 blade thinning on 2 dot models

[aircooledTOM]

I've been looking at a popular auction site lately and I'm noticing that a lot of the 2 dot and no dot (late and early 70s respectively) blades have had significant thinning work done to them. Is this necessary? It really uglys them up. I suppose I can understand why an owner would want that (thinner blade=smaller bevel=more efficient cutting), but I don't like it. I want another 110 to tide me over while mine is getting spa treatment, and I really like 440C.

Am I SOL? How many unmolested examples are out there? I know budget sort of drives everything, and I'm watching a few items now, but so many of them are just ugly as hell.

Is it popular to thin the blade? Is it because of the "semi-hollow" nature of the primary grind of that era? Does anyone have experience with this? and if so, how does the knife perform?

Thoughts are appreciated... Thanks

 

[Badhammer]

Could the "thinning" be poorly or overly sharpened blades?

 

[pinnah]

Judging from a quick glance on the bay, I would say you're probably either seeing good ol' fashion blade loss on several of them and on one that I saw, what looks like a crappy "look what I can do with my belt grinder" over-sharpening of a blade. The bay has ebbs and flows of what's available but I would expect to pay top dollar for a knife with a full blade.

I too really like the old semi-hollow grind when working with wood. I find it throws a curl really nicely. Eventually you need to thin a blade like that, or put on a back bevel. If you don't like the look of a sharp line at the top of the shoulder of the back bevel, you can convex that off either free hand or by stropping on wet/dry while laying the blade almost flat so as to get the shoulder instead of the apex. Alternatively, you could pursue fully convex edge sharpening.

Good luck

 

[aircooledTOM]

Judging from a quick glance on the bay, I would say you're probably either seeing good ol' fashion blade loss on several of them and on one that I saw, what looks like a crappy "look what I can do with my belt grinder" over-sharpening of a blade. The bay has ebbs and flows of what's available but I would expect to pay top dollar for a knife with a full blade.

I too really like the old semi-hollow grind when working with wood. I find it throws a curl really nicely. Eventually you need to thin a blade like that, or put on a back bevel. If you don't like the look of a sharp line at the top of the shoulder of the back bevel, you can convex that off either free hand or by stropping on wet/dry while laying the blade almost flat so as to get the shoulder instead of the apex. Alternatively, you could pursue fully convex edge sharpening.

Good luck

Thanks for your input. My thoughts run along the same path as yours. I love the way a convex edge works on wood-- or even a convex primary grind with a normal edge. But I particularly like the way a hollow grind then, convex edge works. I think your intuition on the "look what my belt sander can do" is probably right.