110 - Flat To The Stone

[Vivi]

Sharpest 110 I've handled. Push cuts notebook paper with its own weight. Just finished my ham and egg biscuits I cooked, now time to go build some fires with this newly ground sharpness.

Anyone else sharpen their 110 this way?

You can see by the reflection the tip area isn't done yet. I'm putting it off until later. This alone was about 3 hours work, since I did it on a fine ceramic rod. :shrug: Hey, it worked. Only need this part done for whittling anyways.

 

[Buck_110]

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[Pack Rat]

You ground that edge high! At that rate, you should need a new knife every month...and you'll have a new toothpick every month. Since you sharpen so aggresively, you may want to consider putting a choil at that very spot above the tang that you missed. It will make it easier to sharpen. All you need is a rotary tool.

The only way to restore the point is with a bench stone. You will find it almost impossible to restore a point with a crock stick rod(s). The angle you put on that edge looks pretty acute. I'll bet it's a good slicer.

I have done the choil before with a small triangle file with it slanted away from the tang just to keep it off the tang. Just enough to be able to sharpen all the way back.

 

[Buck_110]

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[Pack Rat]

Pack Rat:

I actually like the file idea better than the rotary tool. I chuck my Dremel upside down and fight flying metal dust. I'll be at the hardware store by next week buying a 3/16" rat tail file.

I have even used the edge of the coarse lansky hone to cut a notch. but a bit harder to keep it off the tang. least for me...

 

[Buck_110]

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[Buckaholic]

Pack Rat:

I learned that the hard way myself. What I do now is use a toothpick and lay it right at the bottom of the tang "step" where it meets the blade/edge grind. I then take a small piece of duct tape that I rip small, and tape it in place. The toothpick stands up long enough to get a bite into the blade, but eventually shears. By that time though, it is okay, because once it has bitten into the blade, it wont "walk" into the tang. This Rube Goldberg system works like a charm.

Hey Rube...
Post a pic of that please

 

[Guntotin_fool]

If you get the bevel too fine, you end up with effectively a straight razor, incredibly sharp but with no shoulders behind to hold the edge up, incredibly easy to dull. I would say that you need to get a strop for that burr previously mentioned and learn the mechanics of sharpening as to why bevels and angles are important and how different edges and steels relate to each other. Some steels are very easy to sharpen yet need that stropping to remove the burr. some are nigh to impossible to sharpen that sharp as the size of the grain or carbides will never allow the edges to be thinned that much. some are very hard to sharpen but work well at thinner edges while some will cut like demons even when they seem not to be that sharp. D2 steel will often feel fairly dull but still cut like mad due to the "edginess" of the bevel. If you get D2 polished out to a mirror at the right angle it will cut near to forever. If you do not, you get the feeling that you are using a serrated steak knife.

 

[Vivi]

Thanks for the advice everyone.

In the original post it was stated the front wasn't finished. It was getting grinded down slower than the back, probably due to some improper technique. That's not a burr, it's just part of the original bevel still left on the knife. The rest was stropped, taking the burr off.

When I took it out to the woods yesterday it did a lot of carving and whittling, controlling and cutting much better than it ever has before. I also did some chopping on green and seasoned branches to test the durability of the edge, no problems outside the hint of burring that should be expected (Got this with the original settings too). So far it seems to be working out great. It's going to go with me when I help some people move this afternoon, cutting boxes and stuff shouldn't be too stressful on it.

I'd expect it to hold up fine, since I've ground some of my SAKs this steep as well. Whenever I get my hands on some stones I'll get the choil area.

 

[rhino]

I do my blades almost like that, but I try to go just short of where the rest of the blade will get scratched as the guide for my angle. I usually end up with a few scratches anyway, but I get the edge I want too. My SAKs have a LOT of scratches from sharpening that way!