-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
110 on sharpmaker?
- Thread starter SIRGALANT
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2006
- Messages
- 487
FWIW, the Sharpmaker works fine on my 112 using the 40° angle. I think it's supposed to be 30° (15° bevel on each side), but I always sharpened it freehand (by guess and by golly) since I got it (around 1984), apparently with about a 20° bevel per side.
The Buck web site (here:http://www.buckknives.com/planttour_edging.php) says that the Edge-2X bevel is in a range of 26 to 32 degrees inclusive. That is a good fit for the 30 degree slots on the Sharpmaker so you should be able to sharpen using the standard procedure shown in the Spyderco video.
On the other hand, things are more difficult when the edge bevel is a larger angle than the slot angles. This might happen with an older Buck edge since they were built with a bevel about 10 degrees greater than the newer Edge-2X blades. In that case the stones only contact the shoulder of the bevel and do not touch the extreme cutting edge. If you paint the bevel with a felt marker you can see where the stones are actually grinding on the bevel. You won't make any real sharpening progress until the stones grind the ink off at the extreme cutting edge.
The process of re-working the bevel down to a smaller angle is called re-profiling. Given enough time, you can just keep working it down with the medium stones, but most people resort to a much coarser stone for this re-profiling process. The re-profiling can be done freehand on a coarse benchstone, or you can lean a coarse stone up against the Sharpmaker stones for a more controlled approach. (DMT diamond duofolds work well for this.) Another method is to wrap coarse sandpaper around the Sharpmaker stones and use rubberbands, tape, or owl clips to hold it there. The optional Sharpmaker diamond rods are more aggresive than the standard medium rods, but they are not the most cost effective way to re-profile.
With the Buck Edge-2x bevel you should be able to get a sharp edge without needing to re-profile. You can just use the standard side-to-side method. Another approach that works well is to just hone on one side (preferably with a coarse DMT hone leaned against the rods) until a burr is formed the full length of the blade. Then repeat on the other side. Then continue side-to-side on the sharpmaker stones. This method works for me in cases where the standard method won't.
You should be able to sharpen a 110 in just five or ten minutes when the bevel angle does not need re-profiling. More extreme sharpness can be obtained with practice and attention. It comes down to forming a clean edge with no burr. Forming, controlling, and removing the burr is the issue for extreme sharpness. I think burr control on the Sharpmaker comes with light strokes and very clean stones.
There is a wealth of sharpening advice on the web. Scroll down to the bottom of this page to "Forum Jump" and go to the "Toolshed" sub-forum. There are many opinions and different folks swear by their preferred methods. I have had fun trying to figure out what works for me. I can get shaving-sharp but I am still working at going beyond that.
Edited to add this diagram illustrating the importance of bevel angle for the Sharpmaker. Lanskys and Edge-Pro devices can be adjusted to fit the bevel of the knife. But with the Sharpmaker the angles are hardwired.
On the other hand, things are more difficult when the edge bevel is a larger angle than the slot angles. This might happen with an older Buck edge since they were built with a bevel about 10 degrees greater than the newer Edge-2X blades. In that case the stones only contact the shoulder of the bevel and do not touch the extreme cutting edge. If you paint the bevel with a felt marker you can see where the stones are actually grinding on the bevel. You won't make any real sharpening progress until the stones grind the ink off at the extreme cutting edge.
The process of re-working the bevel down to a smaller angle is called re-profiling. Given enough time, you can just keep working it down with the medium stones, but most people resort to a much coarser stone for this re-profiling process. The re-profiling can be done freehand on a coarse benchstone, or you can lean a coarse stone up against the Sharpmaker stones for a more controlled approach. (DMT diamond duofolds work well for this.) Another method is to wrap coarse sandpaper around the Sharpmaker stones and use rubberbands, tape, or owl clips to hold it there. The optional Sharpmaker diamond rods are more aggresive than the standard medium rods, but they are not the most cost effective way to re-profile.
With the Buck Edge-2x bevel you should be able to get a sharp edge without needing to re-profile. You can just use the standard side-to-side method. Another approach that works well is to just hone on one side (preferably with a coarse DMT hone leaned against the rods) until a burr is formed the full length of the blade. Then repeat on the other side. Then continue side-to-side on the sharpmaker stones. This method works for me in cases where the standard method won't.
You should be able to sharpen a 110 in just five or ten minutes when the bevel angle does not need re-profiling. More extreme sharpness can be obtained with practice and attention. It comes down to forming a clean edge with no burr. Forming, controlling, and removing the burr is the issue for extreme sharpness. I think burr control on the Sharpmaker comes with light strokes and very clean stones.
There is a wealth of sharpening advice on the web. Scroll down to the bottom of this page to "Forum Jump" and go to the "Toolshed" sub-forum. There are many opinions and different folks swear by their preferred methods. I have had fun trying to figure out what works for me. I can get shaving-sharp but I am still working at going beyond that.
Edited to add this diagram illustrating the importance of bevel angle for the Sharpmaker. Lanskys and Edge-Pro devices can be adjusted to fit the bevel of the knife. But with the Sharpmaker the angles are hardwired.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2000
- Messages
- 6,676
There's some great, detailed info here already. But to give you a short answer: Yes, you can sharpen any knife on your Sharpmaker.