110 qualty levels...

I

ipm

Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
576
I was thinking of getting another 110, but this time instead of wally world, i was looking at the factory customs web page.

should the quality be better from that source vs. the wally world version?

by this i don't mean to disucsss that S30V is 'better' than 420HC, or that silver blosters are 'nicer' than brass.

i mean to ask, is the fit and finish better, or will the blade play be less, etc, from the factory custom shop vs. from wally world?

PS my wally world 110 is a pretty good knife, i must say. :)
 
My 110s in 420HC (Wally World) and CPM-154 (Bass Pro) both lock up like bank vaults. I don't know what the Custom Shop can do to beat that.
 
my 110 from wally world locks OK, BUT there is some side to side play.

I looked at a few in wally world to compare, and they are about the same.

its not a big deal at all, but i do notice it.

iso am just wondering about spending a few more dolalrs on better materials form the factory custom and weather or not that means they will be any diffrent in terms of fit finish, blade play, etc. :)
 
Only one of my Wallys had an issue with blade tip exposure when closed and a very slight blade play. That, together with an Alaskan Guide that had an exposed tip when closed, were sent back to Buck today for warranty adjustment. Minor thing, really. The others were all tight and "fit as a fiddle".

Otherwise, the quality is very similar. The custom shop does give more thorough attention to QC, I think, judging from the number of people who sign off on the certificate. There is a bit more precision. But the overall quality is really much the same, at least on my examples.

What the custom shop offers is a personalized selection of materials, finishes, etc. The mass produced and the customs are well worth it for different reasons. The custom shop can give you a knife that others don't have, a special inscription and selection of components with finer attention to detail. The mass produced give you a bargain price with slightly less individual attention but (in general) better than "acceptable" results.

I can't do better without showing you the knives and having you open and close them. They are close partners. Very close. But, for example, when you order stag you get a whole different dimension in volume, weight, balance and grip, which I like. Hope this helps.
 
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ipm, the side play can be fixed at home. I have done it to several 110's. You need a padded vice and very gently, a little at a time, squeeze the front bolsters together.

Go slow and easy until you get it tight but not too much so that its hard to open the knife. Now the front bolster pin may stick out slightly on one side after this. So now you must sand down the bolster with progessively fine wet/dry sand paper (300 - 800 then fine crocus cloth).
I will mix brasso with the crocus and polish. After this use brasso and terry (or old towel cloth) to bring out the shine.

It sounds complicated but its really not.

Vinny
 
vba,

cool. thanks for the information.

several eh? so mine is not the only one.

i don't understand the pin sticking out and the sanding part. why sand? to make the pin flush again?

please, more details on that partl. :)
 
This is how I look at it. They are all from the same place buying a 110 from walmart is no different then buying one from a gun shop for 10-20 dollars more. Frankly I know alot of people pay alot of attention to the blade steel which isn't that big of a deal (to me) if it holds an edge then its fine.`
 
Yes ipm, to make the pivot pin flush. If the bolster does not have to be tighten a great deal, the pin may not stick out. The bolsters (for me anyway) are easy to maintain.

I suggest, if your going to do the tightening, to go to a hardware store and pickup some various wet/dry sandpaper and crocus cloth. In this way you will be prepared. Oh, and brasso too.

Vinny
 
Vinny, I don't have the problem with my Bucks but I have a couple of Craftsman knives that I got off the bay that need some help. I assume that the vise needs to be the smooth jaw type. If not then a smooth piece of metal to cover the jaws. What padding do you use? Thanks
 
So long as you're comparing apples to oranges (regular 110's with the same sheath type) I don't think there is any difference.

I had a custom shop which I was not happy with for the money, yet have several off the shelf versions which I have been very happy with so I think it's a bit luck of the draw.

Best to do is see/handle the knife before you buy.
 
ohen cepel said:
So long as you're comparing apples to oranges (regular 110's with the same sheath type) I don't think there is any difference.

I had a custom shop which I was not happy with for the money, yet have several off the shelf versions which I have been very happy with so I think it's a bit luck of the draw.

Best to do is see/handle the knife before you buy.
Click to expand...

What Ohen said. I have never had a problem with any of my Custom Shoppe 110 knives (my 112s' are a different story). I think that 'luck of the draw' is a good way to put it.
 
My 3 Walmart 110s' all lock up very solid and have no blade play. Of the ones I've handled at Walmart, only one has had a very slight bit of side to side play. Point is, although your experience may be different, I don't think blade play is an issue across the board. I'm more than impressed with the fit and finish of my Walmart Buck 110s. Wish I could say that about my Case knives.
 
edbeau, I place two pieces of mdf (medium density fiberboard) between the jaws. In this way the jaws don't have to be smooth. I would highly recommend that you use mdf regardless of whether your using smooth or rough jaws in your vice.

I found that many woods were too soft and the bolsters would sink into the wood. Just be sure to go easy and take your time as its very hard to loosen too tight bolsters.

Don't get the wrong idea, every Buck 110/112 that I've bought new has had great lockup and virtually no up/down of side/side play. I collect older Bucks where some have been put through the ringer and therefore, may need some tightening.

Vinny
 
edbeau, nice knives! Just get the various grit sandpaper (300-1000 and fine crocus, brasso) first. You may not need to start at 300 though. Also, in my experience, the pin usually sticks out on one side, so its usually just the one side I work on, but also polish both.

Vinny
 
i only have one wallyworld 110 all others are 70s/80s models imo a bucks a buck the quailty is there no matter where you get it from it's just a damn good knife i carry one everyday without fail would't feel right without it :thumbup:
 
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