110 question

G

Grubbster

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
370
I have a 110 I just purchased and find the rivets on the handle scales to be a little uncomfortable. Does anyone know if they are actually holding the scales on, or is there some sort of glue under the wood? I would like to sand the rivets down flush. What about the spring pivot pin? Will the tension hold it in if the ends are sanded flush?
 
...I just sanded down the rivets on two (2) 110's that are over 15 years old to replace the scales and the rivets fell through to the inside of the liners. Of course the rocker pin kept the scales on but they sat there loose. I've done some newer 110's and it was all I could do to get the scales off, after the rivets were ground down and removed, without damaging the liners. I guess what I'm saying is that it might depend on how old the 110 that you have is. Older...the scales may fall off...Newer...the scales may be tight like they were welded on... I believe the adhesive they use today is pretty good stuff and the rivets never did actually hold the scales on in the first place...The peened ends of the rocker pin is all that holds it in place by the way...
 
I also ground off the rivets on 2 of my 110's the other day, to have the scales replaced.
One was newer and the other was 90's?
Anyway both of them were easy to remove. once the rivets were ground off the scales were loose... The rocker pin stayed but the rivets fell into the handle. The rivet on the top of the handle towards the unlocking lever also fell into the handle preventing the lock from being pushed. Ooopps... :d
The 2 knives I ground the rivets off of had NO glue holding the scales on.
Just leave a little rivet there or buy a nice custom shop 110 without rivets :D
 
If you sand everything flush, the scales WILL work loose and fall off. There's no glue used on riveted scales.
 
hand_half.jpg


http://www.gorillaglue.com/home.htm
 
...That's good stuff...:thumbup:
...Trax...have ya seen a dermatologist for that "hand condition" you have yet???...:p :eek: :p :p :rolleyes:
 
The newer 110 scales I've separated all fell off after drilling the rivets out, but the older 110's were glued on so well that the wood separated...and they had rivets...

OTOH, I have a 110 with Micarta scales and interference rivets that holds just fine...(aftermarket scaling)...and the tension of the backspring holds the rocker rivet in place...no slipping out...

YMMV...
 
....but the older 110's were glued on so well that the wood separated...and they had rivets...

I've done some newer 110's and it was all I could do to get the scales off, after the rivets were ground down and removed, without damaging the liners.

I guess what I'm saying is that it might depend on how old the 110 that you have is. Older...the scales may fall off...Newer...the scales may be tight like they were welded on... I believe the adhesive they use today is pretty good stuff


RE: the glue that buck uses does have a release agent that will cause the glue to let go... i dont know what it is but it works i am told!!!
i belive that both glue and release agent are both from locktite...
but i would not bet even money on it maby ...2 bits to 8...
 
...I've had the scales "fall off" with the rivets removed on 1980, 1986 and 1992 110's. I've had to almost sand them off on 1995 and newer 110's...I did figure out a trick on the ones that are bonded tightly though...:rolleyes:
 
DarrylS said:
...That's good stuff...:thumbup:
...Trax...have ya seen a dermatologist for that "hand condition" you have yet???...:p :eek: :p :p :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

LOL, that is funny!!!
That glue rocks. Foams up brown like root beer fizz as it cures. Ya can sand it to finish it...but that stuff sticks like, well, like glue.

'GrillaTrax...listen to your mom ;)
 
Well, thanks for all the replies. Summing up the posts it looks like there is no consensus on how they are attached. Therefore, I went ahead and did it. So far, the scales seem tight although I have not tried to pry them off. I also sanded down the rocker pin and it seems to be holding fine too. I guess just time will tell. I figure if it does come loose, I can always use glue or epoxy to fix it. I really like the smooth sides much better. Also, while I was at it, I cut a notch at the base of the blade (choil?) to facilitate sharpening. I didn't like the way the base of the blade had that small radius where it meets the tang. Again, thanks for the help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top