110 sprung rockers

Joined
May 20, 2012
Messages
128
Hi,
After going thru a lot of 110's in the past years , it came to me what was springing the rocker locks, it's Bucks logo ,the anvil and bolt, I had to try a 110 I had that was already junk, with out any trouble at all the rocker can be sprung by placeing a nail or bolt near the tang between the blade and anvil and striking the blade ahead of the bolt with a leather hammer, it doesn't take much one blow, it was so easy I tried a junk 1980 with improved rocker material , it was just as easily sprung, I suppose there will always be a load of broken 110's if kids keep tring the trick, a 112 will do the same thing. George God bless
 
George,
I am curious about your findings. By sprung, do you mean that the blade does not lean forward but in fact leans back? I collect Buck 110 Version 1 through 3 and see this a lot on knives for sale. I thought perhaps it was the weak brass Rocker Rivets, but it is sad to see an otherwise Near Mint old Version with this problem. I suppose there is no way to fix this without compromising the original part of very old knives. Richard.
 
Hi, it's where the tip of the rocker bar end where the milled out hook holds the blade open is bent out from the frame, a lot of them are like that, most of the time the blade won't lock up , some will still just catch the tang but can be forced closed when it should be locked open, sometimes people will attemp to fix them and end up with a proud blade , the point standing above the frame, the only proper way to fix them is to take them apart and flatten them , or have Buck put a new rocker in, I must have seen over 100 110's sprung, it finaly got the best of me , so I had to find out what was causing it. What you are thinking about is called angle back, most of the time it is caused by a worn rocker rivet, it happens to the brass rivet 110's a lot, it is posiable to be a worse problem on a well used 110 it can be a worn out rocker bar from years of blade tang contact, If you have Buck repair it be sure they have the vintage part or you will end up with a mismatched knife with a new rocker with the hump in it. George God bless
 
If you have a realy nice old 110 it can be repaired with the old part,a good repair man can draw the rocker longer you need to talk to Buck, Joe Houser he's a very busy man, but he finds time for everyone , he somehow makes time for these problems, talk to him before you send it in, it can be saved with old parts , I guess they just put new rockers in because it maybe eaiser, most of them can be adjusted to get the correct angle, it's hand work. Buck is the only company that cares enough about it's collectors to do this, a good knife smith can also do the job , but you'll pair for it. If you have a version 1 or 2 it's worth it. I would have Buck do it, see if they will let you pay for the job, I bet they do it free their the best. George God bless
 
If you have a realy nice old 110 it can be repaired with the old part,a good repair man can draw the rocker longer you need to talk to Buck, Joe Houser he's a very busy man, but he finds time for everyone , he somehow makes time for these problems, talk to him before you send it in, it can be saved with old parts , I guess they just put new rockers in because it maybe eaiser, most of them can be adjusted to get the correct angle, it's hand work. Buck is the only company that cares enough about it's collectors to do this, a good knife smith can also do the job , but you'll pair for it. If you have a version 1 or 2 it's worth it. I would have Buck do it, see if they will let you pay for the job, I bet they do it free their the best. George God bless

Thank you George. Very informative information. I do collect Versions 1-3, and I see them all the time, but have avoided them. Also your advice about talking with Joe Houser before sending a knife in. It would surely spoil a good old Version knife to have new parts installed. Your information and advice is invaluable. I would love to see information like this more often. Thanks again.
Richard
 
Can someone show a picture of this? I've got my first 110 and it is only a couple of months old, so no problems with it.

And how does the logo cause the condition?

Thanks
 
Hi,
After going thru a lot of 110's in the past years , it came to me what was springing the rocker locks, it's Bucks logo ,the anvil and bolt, I had to try a 110 I had that was already junk, with out any trouble at all the rocker can be sprung by placeing a nail or bolt near the tang between the blade and anvil and striking the blade ahead of the bolt with a leather hammer, it doesn't take much one blow, it was so easy I tried a junk 1980 with improved rocker material , it was just as easily sprung, I suppose there will always be a load of broken 110's if kids keep tring the trick, a 112 will do the same thing. George God bless

A fool and his knife are soon parted..... apparently enough people tried it that Buck issued this warning.....

Donotchopnailsorbolts1978_zps93d21f64.jpg
 
.....And how does the logo cause the condition? ... Thanks

Bucks logo is a knife struck by a hammer cutting a bolt.... Historically, it was said that Hoyt Buck would demonstrate the toughness of his blades to perspective customers by cutting a bolt with a knife on his anvil....... The 110 folding hunter didn't exist for another 2 decades, but kids will be kids.....

Pondoro, don't try pounding your 110 knife thru a bolt with a hammer and it will be just fine..... :D
 
I've done some batoning myself with a 110,I know they weren't made for that,but I wanted to test a rather cheap knock off against a 110,and the 110 out performed 3otherlock backs before breaking the tip off from abuse.i didn't break the lock or spring the lock bar,and I battoned the 110through some heavy oak.i have tried the famous bolt cut myself,several good whacks on the spine with a hammer and she cut through,although the blade was damaged.my question is wtf did you do to spring the lock bar?thatbmust have been some serious pounding on that 110.lol
 
I have been using knives now for sixty years and have been collecting off and on for 50+, I have seen on the 110's I collect the back spring sprung. All I could figure is that some one using excessive force was cutting near the tip rather then close to the kick where the heavy cutting should be done. When that much force is needed either the knife is dull or another tool should be used. I'm sorry but I can not see where normal wear and tear would do that to any quality knife much less a Buck.
 
A very nice study junom. Please more threads productive and informative as this one. Thanks again.
 
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