110vac 1 ph VFD

K

Ken H>

Joined
Dec 31, 2011
Messages
4,701
I remember how hard it's been to find a 120 vac input VFD. Here's a HUANYANG VFD Variable Frequency Drive,1 Phase Input, 3 Phase 0-400HZ Output, 2.2kW 3HP for $95 shipped. Of course this is a NEMA 1 enclosure, but with filters over the air inlets that's not so much of a problem. A 1.5KW 2hp version is also available. I consider a Chinese 3hp better for 2hp motors - a little cushion if you would. Do an Amazon search for item #B0D873QLL4.

The only thing I ever used a 120vac input for was a 1 hp motor on my lathe, but have since rewired for 220vac so it's same as the rest of my VFD drives. I "think" Huanyang VFDs have been around for a long time and have a decent reputation for Chinese drives. I used my first Huanyang drive 8 or 9 yrs ago, but other drives got less expensive and got away from the Huanyang drives.
 
I want to use one to convert my wood bandsaw to variable speed. One of these days! Would be nice to have the larger throat of the wood bandsaw for profiling blanks and stuff! I upgraded to roller bearing guides on it, so it basically just needs the 240V 3 phase motor and vfd.
 
Taz, is that with the idea of using the bandsaw for metal also with the VFD to get slow speeds? I've got a Rikon 14" with the variable speed setup. I got it with the idea of using it for both metal and wood. In real world, I find it's just a bit of a hassle to change blades from wood to metal, so the bandsaw mostly stays on wood and using my 4X6" saw (or PortaBand) for metal.

With a metal blade the Rikon does work good, but not all that much better (if any) than the PortaBand (with table) or the 4X6" saw (with larger cutting support). The Rikon does work better with wood.
 
Yeah. I rarely use the 14" wood bandsaw at all anymore; I think I used it twice in the past 3 years? I try to get scales if I want scales and blocks if I want blocks, so the rare use is splitting a wood block into scales if I need to. I do most of my sawing of G10, micarta, wood, blade steels, liner materials, pins, etc on the portaband, but the limited throat depth sucks when breaking down 12" x 12" pieces of handle and spacer material, or larger pieces of steel. My portaband table needs to be redone (it isn't perfectly perpendicular to the blade, so everything is at a slight angle), maybe if I do that, I will like the portaband more? I keep breaking and buying blades constantly trying to do gentle curves, too. I figured the longer blade would stay sharp longer and there would be more options blade wise, too to get good, narrower blades. I tried using some narrower blades on the 14" before and finer tooth for cutting G10 and Micarta and curves and it was nice to be able to cut gentle curves and not break the blade, but they weren't bi metal and dulled quickly. Getting blade steel in sheet form is nice, but the 5" throat on the portband makes it more difficult to cut out. I am hoping to get access to a water jet machine where I work to help with that, but it would be nice to slice down the 12 x 12 pieces of handle material easier and have less waste. I sometimes get blocks of G10 that I want to slice down and the portaband isn't that great because the blocks are around 6" across, so I have to flip the piece around.
 
While the 14" bandsaw blade does last longer, it also costs more. Not at all sure there's much difference in cost due to that. The BIG advantage of the bandsaw is getting 1/4' blades to cut curves easier. G10 just plain dulls blades big time. Much worse than metal. I found that out when making PCB boards a few yrs ago.
 
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