I really like this steel, and I've knives with all the other (steel) suspects. Based on Kershaws particular treatment of it, I've really taken a shine to their knives. I haven't had trouble with burring, but I'm more than a little obsessive on stropping, etc.
Oddly enough, when I used my Kershaw RAM to do some leatherwork, I used it right out of the box. If there was any burr, cutting the leather took it off. Since then a good stropping is part of the ritual.
I thought I would give a bit more info on my particular sharpening methods. I use edge leading strokes on a DMT fine stone to re-sharpen. To finish the edge I do the same thing, except using the lightest possible touch I can and only using about 1/3 of the stones length. With this technique I can get any steel in my collection (D2, S30V, 13C26, 12C27, 420 mystery steel, VG10, 1095, AUS8, 154CM, 8Cr13MoV...) to whittle hairs.
All of my EDC's are reprofiled on a DMT XX course, then sharpened with a microbevel using the above.
Generally I try to eliminate any burrs detectable with my own senses of sight and touch using the stone. I used to strop but I've found I can get my edges just as sharp without it, and I've gotten better results using those edges rather than sharpening to only shaving sharp then relying on my strop for hair whittling sharpness levels. They seem to have more bite, both in push cuts and slices, so I don't know what exactly causes it. Maybe I have poor stropping technique compared to where my stone technique is at, but most my edges just don't feel as aggressive after a stropping compared to before, using the thumb test to feel the edge. This is using steels like S30V and ZDP189, which are my two most frequently EDC'd steels.
However, steels like the Byrds 8Cr13MoV and the steel in this thread have given me slightly different results. They both tend to burr more compared to the other two steels I mentioned when I sharpen them. Cliff Stamp used to suggest it might be under hardening rather than inherit properties of the steel. Maybe so, I Don't know what the cause is. Only I've noticed all the steels people consider difficult to sharpen, I strongly prefer because of how they sharpen. They don't grind as quickly, but they burr less. With the thin, reprofiled edges I use, grindability is irrelevant, as I can reset an edge in under 5 passes per side on the fine stone alone, and as I mentioned I finish with that same stone so my resharpenings are literally about 20-30 seconds long, unless I'm not satisfied with the edge and go at it again. With these steels and others like AUS8 I can get hair whittling right off the DMT fine, but it takes much, much more concentration and steadiness in my hands to do so compared to the effortless IMO nature of resharpening my D2 Queen or ZDP Caly Jr. Also, stropping seems to affect them differently. Again I don't know the science explaining why, it's just what I've observed. Stropped AUS8 seems to retain it's bite better than stropped ZDP189. I strop my AUS8 and 13C26, largely because with them I'm usually not in a mood to go for hair whittling sharpness because it's not worth the effort because all my knives in these steels are pure beaters, so I sharpen to shaving sharp and give a good stropping for usually a smooth shave with some hair popping ability.
All that said however, I did spend a night resharpening every knife in my collection that's in rotation. My Kershaw Skyline took a very good edge that night. Normally when I sharpen that knife I get shaving sharp very quickly, usually within 2 or 3 passes per side, but hair whittling sharp takes more steadiness than I care to invest, because I find it so easy to flop a minute burr over back and forth. It could be because of my sharpening medium. What do you sharpen with?
