14” contact wheel

D

Dobbscustomknives

Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
2
I’m looking for some input from some other makers. I recently purchased a 14” contact wheel from Beaumont Metals and it has 18-20 Thousandths of wobble. I am somewhat disappointed. I have several no name wheels with some wobble but just expected better runout from a higher priced wheel. Is this wobble acceptable?
 
We need a lot more info:

Are you sure it is the wheel?
Are the shaft bolt and sleeves/collars/washers true?
Is it on a KMG?
How did you mount it?
Is it out 18-20 thousandths on the rim, or on the tire?
 
Well, it is in their wheel assembly I should say. It is mounted on an aluminum tooling arm with spacer that came with the wheel from Beaumont. It is being used on a Broadbeck 72” belt grinder but that is irrelevant. I put a dial indicator on the rubber, and on the rim in multiple locations and turned the wheel by hand. The wobble is obviously more prominent with the machine running and a belt on it.
 
Dobbscustomknives said:
I’m looking for some input from some other makers. I recently purchased a 14” contact wheel from Beaumont Metals and it has 18-20 Thousandths of wobble. I am somewhat disappointed. I have several no name wheels with some wobble but just expected better runout from a higher priced wheel. Is this wobble acceptable?
Click to expand...
On 14 inch wheel , for me 0.5mm runout is acceptable :thumbsup:
 
Oh come on Natkek. You don't have to do this every time I post. I don't want to sidetrack this thread with debating this, but for clarity:

First - he is talking about wobble, not run out. But, both could be affected by the same questions.
The shaft could be bent
The shaft under tightened.
A different grinder could have a different mounting method than the KMG - such as a clamped turned shaft which is being replaced by a bolt and nut that may be undersize.
The shaft bolt could be slightly undersize for the bearings.
The tire could have a bulge but the rim could be true.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Oh come on Natkek. You don't have to do this every time I post. I don't want to sidetrack this thread with debating this, but for clarity:

First - he is talking about wobble, not run out. But, both could be affected by the same questions.
The shaft could be bent
The shaft under tightened.
A different grinder could have a different mounting method than the KMG - such as a clamped turned shaft which is being replaced by a bolt and nut that may be undersize.
The shaft bolt could be slightly undersize for the bearings.
The tire could have a bulge but the rim could be true.
Click to expand...
I'm really sorry you take my posts that way...........:thumbsup:
But I can not imagine how undersized bolt used for bearings can be reason for wobble or run out ? If I have 12mm inner dia. bearing on my wheel /perfectly crafted wheel / and I use 10mm bolt and I tighten wheel with that undersized bolt , wheel will wobble or run out ??? Never !!!
Same for sleeves/collars/washers.........
 
Last edited:
I have experienced some of the issues Stacy describes and can tell you that mounting can have a pretty significant impact on wobble/runout/vibrations, especially at high speed. I first mounted my 12" wheel on all-thread because that's all I had and the vibrations were ridiculous. Same wheel on a proper axle is running pretty smoothly. It only takes a small imbalance to create significant forces at high speed.
 
Hubert S. said:
I have experienced some of the issues Stacy describes and can tell you that mounting can have a pretty significant impact on wobble/runout/vibrations, especially at high speed. I first mounted my 12" wheel on all-thread because that's all I had and the vibrations were ridiculous. Same wheel on a proper axle is running pretty smoothly. It only takes a small imbalance to create significant forces at high speed.
Click to expand...
Did you tighten that bolt firmly ?
 
Hubert S. said:
I have experienced some of the issues Stacy describes and can tell you that mounting can have a pretty significant impact on wobble/runout/vibrations, especially at high speed. I first mounted my 12" wheel on all-thread because that's all I had and the vibrations were ridiculous. Same wheel on a proper axle is running pretty smoothly. It only takes a small imbalance to create significant forces at high speed.
Click to expand...
Do you realize that wheel spin on bearing not on shaft ? Inner race is STEADY and outer race of bearing with wheel spin ??
 
Dobbs hate to say it but pretty par for the course from Beaumont last few years unfortunately.

They are also still advertising their wheels as vilcanized rubber when they switched over to polyurethane without telling anyone.

I’ve had contact wheels from Beaumont, bader, Ameribrade, contact rubber, Northridge, sun ray and Travis wuertz(pretty sure hardcore makes his wheels for him)

Only ones I’ve had that ran horribly were Beaumont. My grinder vibrated so bad with their 14” wheel even though it was mounted on a precision ground shaft and correctly spaced from the arm. 18-20 though run out or wobble is insane.

Northridge 10” wheel is the smoothest whee I’ve ever used bar none. If only I could convince George to make larger than 10” I’d be set.

had very good experience with ameribrades as well as contact rubber and the hardcore wheels from Travis wuertz.

I would message Beaumont and ask for a refund then if you need 14” contact rubber would be my choice at that size.
 
Well, I don't know if this will help or not. Years ago I got a 14" contact wheel. Bob Dozier got it for me. It did not run smooth. I sent it to Sun Ray for balancing. I don't know what they did but when they sent it back it ran perfectly. I still use it.
 
Tin.Man said:
Only ones I’ve had that ran horribly were Beaumont. My grinder vibrated so bad with their 14” wheel even though it was mounted on a precision ground shaft and correctly spaced from the arm. 18-20 though run out or wobble is insane.
Click to expand...

Seems on picture that there is no spacer between bearings ? 14 inch wheel spinning or high rpm on lose bearing ............? I don t like this wheel ..two sheet of steel welded together and some rubber over and 482,90 $ ??? Maybe 48 $ for that hub !
5jFBEy9.jpg
 
Natlek said:
Oh come on Hubert , explain to me how collars , sleeves and undersized bolt can can affect wheel to run out or wobble ?
Click to expand...
I think you already know one way. If there is no crush sleeve, you cannot get enough force on your bolt to retain the wheel radially on an undersized shaft if it is not perfectly balanced. Even if you do have a crush sleeve, I think it is ill advised to use an undersized shaft. In my case with the all-thread, there were compounding factors. I used a through hole to mount the all-thread to the tool arm instead of threading it, I did not have a solid spacer from the tool arm and used a nyloc nut instead, and the all-thread was not exactly straight. The net effect was that the grinder was threatening to shake itself apart at even a moderate speed. What can I say, I wanted to test the wheel that day and that's all I had around. After the proper hardware arrived and I mounted the wheel properly, I was able to run at full speed.

The OP said the wobble is more prominent when the grinder is running, which is also what I observed with my poor mounting. I would say that if the run-out or wobble is amplified by the machine running, it is likely that something is happening at the mounting point. I cannot really see the wheel or tool arm deforming much, and the extra motion has to come from somewhere.
 
Hubert S. said:
I think you already know one way. If there is no crush sleeve, you cannot get enough force on your bolt to retain the wheel radially on an undersized shaft if it is not perfectly balanced. Even if you do have a crush sleeve, I think it is ill advised to use an undersized shaft. In my case with the all-thread, there were compounding factors. I used a through hole to mount the all-thread to the tool arm instead of threading it, I did not have a solid spacer from the tool arm and used a nyloc nut instead, and the all-thread was not exactly straight. The net effect was that the grinder was threatening to shake itself apart at even a moderate speed. What can I say, I wanted to test the wheel that day and that's all I had around. After the proper hardware arrived and I mounted the wheel properly, I was able to run at full speed.

The OP said the wobble is more prominent when the grinder is running, which is also what I observed with my poor mounting. I would say that if the run-out or wobble is amplified by the machine running, it is likely that something is happening at the mounting point. I cannot really see the wheel or tool arm deforming much, and the extra motion has to come from somewhere.
Click to expand...
Well in your case i have nothing to add ,you do everything wrong :) Look , I can make some video if you want ...I will mount my 17 inch wheel /with 20mm inner Dia. bearing / on 12mm Dia. ALL THREAD SHAFT ...IF wheel don t run like it should I will cut wheel in seven pieces :D
Not precisely crafted collars , sleeves will affect how wheel will set according to tool arm or drive wheel and you will have problems with tracking BUT CAN NOT be reason for wobbling or run out on wheel . Slightly bend or undersized shaft properly tightened can not make wheel to wobble or have run out ....Major enemy of big wheels is balance .Big wheel need to be perfectly balanced............. and bearing should last long period.
On my first grinder/32m/s belt speed / i have 4 inch unbalanced tracking wheel /it was two wheel grinder/ On first start whole grinder wanted to escape on street from my shop ......two man holding it don t help ...........only 4 INCH AL wheel !!
 
Last edited:
OK, I will stop this now. My apologies to Dobbs.

Natlek -NOCK IT OFF. Post new threads on whatever you want, but keep the arguing out of other peoples threads.

If you wish to discuss it with me send me an email -sapelt@cox.net
 
Last edited:
You don't learn easy, do you.
Second warning issued. Keep it up and one of the super mods will step in and you will be gone.

I really don't want that because a lot of the folks here, including me, like your builds and unique ideas.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top