We needed a couple machetes for some yard work. After searching for reviews and comparing brands we bought a 14 inch condor and a 14 inch Tramontina. While searching for information on machetes this blade forum site kept coming up within the first 10 or 15 links. I noticed a lot of people made modifications and posted their work. Id like to add my modifications to the list of what you have posted here. The Tramontina 14" bush machete was modified, the condor is still stock and will be modified after the bugs are worked out of the Tramontina.
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14" Tramotina Machete, Modified Handle
- Thread starter captowel
- Start date
The Tramontina stock handle is very short and for my wide paw it did not provide much support on the outside palm. The short handle makes the machete feel like it is about to slip out of my hand at the end of the swing. It also feels like it may slip out of the hand when the blade does not hit the target correctly.
The new handle had to satisfy 2 goals.
1) It must be secure and safe, this was the absolute first priority.
2) I wanted to widen my usage by increasing the swing speed, and having the ability to change the angle of incidence (impact angle of the blade).
Both of these goals led to a longer handle with a curve and horn similar to an axe handle. Ive spent a lot time with an axe in my hand to split wood, clean branches off felled trees, as well as taking down trees. The resulting handle is longer slightly thinner with a bend. The bottom of the handle is flared which helps prevent it from sliding out of the hand when cutting loose vegetation while walking (hanging vines, saplings etc.). When cutting twigs or thicker branches against a log, I often snap my wrist at the end of a swing. The bent heel of the handle complements that snap at the end of the swing. The blade speed is greatly increased and the angle of impact (0 degree angle of incidence) is ideal because the impact is perpendicular to the rotation of the blade.
Here is the cut, carved and sanded handle. The primary wood is a hard Australian wood I had laying around and the darker accents are purpleheart. I glued the handle together with JB Weld, which removes the need for any rivets. The metal had to be stripped of the factory varnish and the surface was scuffed with a coarse paper (I used a small angle grinder to speed up the process).
A thick coating of varnish was applied to the handle and allowed dry for 2 days (I used Waterlox tung oil). Almost all tung oil is mixed with a varnish component which penetrates the wood better than any urethane. This toughens the fibers a little deeper than a traditional varnish, urethane or even epoxy.
The tip of the handle (part covering the blade) changed a bit before I was satisfied with it. I like this shape better than the drawing, and it helps the blade rigidity at the handle.
At this point I thought it was complete. I had much better control and, the grip didnt feel nearly as sloppy. Went out to use it on some brush and I realized there was still room for improvement. The grip was ok but with gloves on, it felt too small in diameter and a little slippery. Once again back to the drawing board.
I searched for methods of wrapping handles. The nylon cord wrap works great but I had a bunch of scrap leather that I wanted to try wrapping around the handle. The look of a turks head knot seemed to be the right way to go and It was a challenge to make one in leather. As a learning experience I gave it a shot.
To properly tie a turks head knot with a single strand (rope or leather) the resulting length of the knot must be estimated before it is started. Adding length is difficult and not worth the effort as it takes longer than re-tying the knot from scratch. So once again it was nice but not exactly the results I was hoping for. I underestimated the length of the knot after it was tightened and it does not travel down the handle as far as I would have liked.
The initial attempt at wrapping the handle was removed. The second attempt was done with a thinner grade of leather which was more elastic and less bulky. I would have preferred the brown leather that was used before but its a tool thats going to get beat up in the back yard so I really didnt care about the long term aesthetic color appeal of the leather. The thinner black leather didnt add as much to the diameter as the thick stuff which is great because my wife will also be using it.
This is a first attempt or rough draft (prototype) at building a tool ideal for my personal preferences and purposes. The next step towards a final product is modifying the condor. A lot was learned in the process of making the handle for the Tramontina. Over the next couple weeks Ill be making some design adjustments based on how it feels, and cuts. Those changes and processes will be applied to the condor blade.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 840
Just for grins scanned the UPC on your first picture- return was $12.95 on e-bay.
Think I paid <$8 for my last one many years ago at Tractor Supply Co. Tramontina machetes are great values.
I run mine stock but you might try some Ranger bands cut from an old bicycle inner tube.
Think I paid <$8 for my last one many years ago at Tractor Supply Co. Tramontina machetes are great values.
I run mine stock but you might try some Ranger bands cut from an old bicycle inner tube.
This is a first attempt or rough draft (prototype) at building a tool ideal for my personal preferences and purposes. . A lot was learned in the process of making the handle for the Tramontina. Over the next couple weeks I’ll be making some design adjustments based on how it feels, and cuts. Those changes and processes will be applied to the condor blade.
Actually I bought mine from MacheteSpecialists.com. The picture is a generic pic I found on google image search. By the time I decided to make a posting on this project, the original handle was already gone.
Ranger bands made from a cut up innertube would not have done a better job than the nylon cord wrap. The problem wasn't in the overall friction/texture of the handle, the problem was, my palms are wider than the handle. Using this machete with the stock handle was like using a big carving knife with a small butter knife handle on a tough piece of meat.
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As long as the metal is properly prepped and textured, JB weld holds up very well. I have several hommade carving knives that I've been using for years that are as solid as the day they were made. I expect the joint to be impact proof since the sheer force is spread out over a large surface area.
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- Jun 4, 2010
- Messages
- 6,642
I would definitely want some hardware helping it hold on with the JB Weld. Should be OK if you're gripping it up near the blade, but that's a lot of force if you should hold it near the end of the handle and make some hard whacks.
Is almost too nice looking to beat on, that turned out great!
Is almost too nice looking to beat on, that turned out great!